I was too tired last night for a full update, but it's a new day.
You lose.
I've spent my last Saturday working last weekend. The true test will come next weekend, it's the last Saturday of the month, and they usually require full participation. I guess I'll have to wait and see how the week goes next week to know if I'm truly in a new job, or whether or not it's just a facade.
All that aside, today at least I'm off. Ive long since abandoned the fabricated steel dog-leg water line. At the same time, abandoned the insulated-12 hose alternative.
It just don't make no sense.
The one water fitting at the rear of the engine barely touches the header. Any rubber hose, regardless of the fact that I insulated the outside is still gonna have all of the header heat transferred into the inside of the hose through the hose end that actually would touch the header ( the fitting don't touch, the hose end does) While not too much of a problem while water is moving through the hose, ( cause water will wick the heat away from the fitting) but once I shut the engine off, and everything gets hotter immediately after is when that fitting would be vulnerable to leakage.
Another plan 9 from outer space.
That leaves only one solution. It runs along the same line of thought I had when I decided to fabricate that piece of sht steel hard line. I would've done this the first time had I had the -10 tube nuts, and commensurate tube sleeves, but I di-ent. I used what I had. I improvised,......I overcame,....I adapted. I threw it away.
So then.....-10 aluminum line is finicky sht. I have a -12 in to -10 out y block ( a real pricy fcking thing I might add), and I have the tube nuts, the line, and the sleeves...I should be able to fix this. Proble is -10 hard line don't like being bent too tightly, and when working with short lengths becomes even more frustrating to get right.
But I'm that guy...I love to punish myself. And I have the whole day to do it.
If I'm successful, I can put the rest of the car back where it was three weeks ago (running), and go about the business of torchering the twin Sumitomos that are on the back of the car.
More news from our little friends from the land of rice-n-sushi.
The one guy came back with a counteroffer on the intake..basically telling me that he'll sell me the intake for 510.00 shipped.
I'll buy it for that. Where else are you gonna buy an 1/8" thick tigged, black powder coated aluminum intake, fuel rail, 90 mm throttle body, and throttle cable for 510 bucks shipped?
What's the intake remind you of?
Ill pay cash for this thing. I was just awarded a 250.00 spiff at work that is currently on a gift card. In my mind, free money. That means I'm in this thing for 260 bucks.
I'd have to be stupid not to buy it.
( Although it is pretty stupid buying this thing when you think about it, considering I don't even have the engine that it fits)
But that's only a matter of time.
Which brings me around to my final topic:
Whaddam I gonna do with the monster engine?
Do you have any idea how much money is in this thing? I shudder to think about it. At least 6k, probably closer to 8 k when you add up the stuff that's bolted onto it.
What would I be able to sell it for,...half? 1/3rd?. The freakin external oil pump is 700.00 alone. The problem will be the complexity. You guys know that it has a timing chain gear that has been modified to fit the only camshaft on the planet that fits this engine...what happens when I tell future dude that he buys the thing under the pretense that " it goes till it blows"?
I'll bet it's un sellable.