1983 New Build Won't Start

GuySing

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Sep 19, 2015
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I just rebuilt a 1983 5.0 and it won't start or even pop. I have the summit 1790 cam, GT 40P heads. I have had two different firing orders given to me. I called summit and they told me 15426378 which is different from the original firing order. I'm at my last nerve. I have no idea what to do. I've checked the timing, spark, fuel and it's all good. I'm so lost.
 
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a91what

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Use the firing order off the cam card (the one summit gave you).
Have you checked to see if you dropped the dizzy in at tdc? You may have it 180* out, if so it won't start.
Make sure you got the right plugs as well... the p heads have a newer plug style, I believe the plugs for a 4.6 (96 gt 2v with 4.6) are the ones that you need.
 

GuySing

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Sep 19, 2015
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Use the firing order off the cam card (the one summit gave you).
Have you checked to see if you dropped the dizzy in at tdc? You may have it 180* out, if so it won't start.
Make sure you got the right plugs as well... the p heads have a newer plug style, I believe the plugs for a 4.6 (96 gt 2v with 4.6) are the ones that you need.
I set the distro perfectly at TDC at the #1. I did buy the plugs for the 1996 explorer 5.0L. It just cranks and cranks....
 

GuySing

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I tried it and it back fired once and nothing more. Maybe my carb is flooding out my plugs?
 

Lscam580

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That is not something that you should ever admit out loud lol or on a mustang forum.. Lol... But I'd steal them back from her and get to it.. I think my wife might have mine as well bc I've got a 25k twin turbo 351 Windsor sitting inside my living room right now
 

sharp2377

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May 22, 2012
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If it backfired then you are at least getting spark. Your distributor is 180 out. I do it all the time
 

sharp2377

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Even if your timing pointer ahows zero you can still be 180 out if your not on the right stroke
 

GuySing

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I got the timing right (I believe ). But the back plugs are saturated in gas. I did a carb rebuild for the first time and I must have not done something right? Ii clean all the plugs and it acts like it wants to got but it floods out right away. Any ideas?
 

jrichker

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Where are the float levels set? Most of the old OEM cab rebuild kits came with a float level gage that you set the float with as part the final assembly. New carbs have a different method that varies from carb to carb.

Check the fuel pressure - you should have 4-6 PSI with the engine not running.

Check the float needle valves -is there dirt or debris causing them to hang open?

Putting the distributor back in and setting the timing.

Revised 28-Jul-2013 to include warning about putting spark plug leads in a different location to attempt a to fix a distributor incorrectly installed.

You can forget about anything beyond this point if you don't have access to a timing light. You will never get the timing set right without one.


Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole, crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer on the engine block.

The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.

Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing.
If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that there is no such thing as one tooth off on a 5.0 Mustang if you follow the spark plug wire order on the distributor cap. If it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range. Don't move the wires from the positions shown on the cap on fuel injected engines!!!! The #1 position cast into the cap MUST have the spark plug wire for #1 cylinder in it. Do it differently and the timing for the fuel injectors will be off. The computer uses the PIP sensor to time injector operation by sensing the wide slot in the PIP sensor shutter wheel. If the injector timing of #1 and the firing of #1 do not occur at the right time, the injector timing for all other cylinders will be affected.

Setting the timing:
Paint the mark on the harmonic balancer with paint -choose 10 degrees BTC or 14 degrees BTC or something else if you have NO2 or other power adder. I try to paint TDC red, 10 degrees BTC white and 14 degrees BTC blue.

10 degrees BTC is towards the drivers side marks.

Note: setting the timing beyond the 10 degree mark will give you a little more low speed acceleration. BUT you will need to run 93 octane to avoid pinging and engine damage. Pinging is very hard to hear at full throttle, so it could be present and you would not hear it.

Simplified diagram of what it looks like. Not all the marks are shown for ease of viewing.

ATC ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '!' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' BTC
---------------- > Direction of Rotation as viewed standing in front of the engine.

The ' is 2 degrees.
The ! is TDC
The ' is 10 degrees BTC
Set the timing 5 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 5 marks towards the driver's side to get 10 degrees.

To get 14 degrees, set it 7 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 7 marks towards the driver's side to get 14 degrees.

The paint marks you make are your friends if you do it correctly. They are much easier to see than the marks machined into the harmonic balancer hub.

At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light. Connect timing light up to battery & #1 spark plug. Then start the engine.

Remove the SPOUT connector (do a search if you want a picture of the SPOUT connector) It is the 2 pin rectangular plug on the distributor wiring harness. Only the EFI Mustang engines have a SPOUT. If yours is not EFI, check for a SPOUT: if you don’t find one, skip any instructions regarding the SPOUT
Warning: there are only two places the SPOUT should be when you time the engine. The first place is in your pocket while you are setting the timing and the second is back in the harness when you finish. The little bugger is too easy to lose and too hard to find a replacement.

Start engine, loosen distributor hold down with a 1/2" universal socket. Shine the timing light on the marks and turn the distributor until the mark lines up with the edge of the timing pointer. Tighten down the distributor hold down bolt, Replace the SPOUT connector and you are done.

The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

 

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