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1988 LX 5.0 restoration questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter DarthBubbles
  • Start date Start date Jun 28, 2020
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DarthBubbles

Member
Jun 28, 2020
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Ontario
Jul 5, 2020
#21
  • Jul 5, 2020
  • #21
Good lord what are these bolts made from?
My Dremel doesn't touch them but will dissolve anything else I touch with it.
I have tried three die grinding bits and it just polishes them.

Beryllium Oxide and then titanium oxide drill time.
 

Gs1987GT

Active Member
Sep 25, 2019
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MidAtlantic
Jul 7, 2020
#22
  • Jul 7, 2020
  • #22
Goodness...hang in there man and dont give up! They will come eventually....
 

DarthBubbles

Member
Jun 28, 2020
22
6
13
Ontario
Jul 18, 2020
#23
  • Jul 18, 2020
  • #23
Fun games! I got the intake plate off by drilling out the torx screws. I destroyed 12 bits, like a fool I went back for more torx bits, this time the hardened ones.
At least Canadian Tire will give me my money back when I bust their tools.

Upper intake off. Hoping to pull that motor today.
Thanks for everyone's suggestions I tried them all.
 

DarthBubbles

Member
Jun 28, 2020
22
6
13
Ontario
Jun 29, 2021
#24
  • Jun 29, 2021
  • #24
IS this bad?
Passenger side, finally just got the motor out.
I think I can fix this,
Thoughts?

 

90sickfox

Wasn't a pretty sight...and I've got big hands
SN Certified Technician
Mar 2, 2015
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Jun 29, 2021
#25
  • Jun 29, 2021
  • #25
That is bad. I've seen worse repaired though. That whole area needs to be redone. Those fuel lines are even more concerning. Rust is one thing.....fire is on a whole different level. You will need to pull the engine,, drop the k member, and remove the struts to get in there like you need to.

You need to go through your brake and fuel lines ASAP. That crack is concerning too.
 

DarthBubbles

Member
Jun 28, 2020
22
6
13
Ontario
Jun 29, 2021
#26
  • Jun 29, 2021
  • #26
90sickfox said:
That is bad. I've seen worse repaired though. That whole area needs to be redone. Those fuel lines are even more concerning. Rust is one thing.....fire is on a whole different level. You will need to pull the engine,, drop the k member, and remove the struts to get in there like you need to.

You need to go through your brake and fuel lines ASAP. That crack is concerning too.
Click to expand...

Ha yup totally, most of the lines, brake and fuel, are like that. had a hell of a time getting the connectors separated.
They are coming out to be replaced with fresh.

I've got the motor out and the K-member is next.

I've also noticed that crack and have started investigations. I'm going to peel down the face and see what's next.

This car has done a lot of 'dukes of hazzard' style stuff back in the day so I would expect to find a few surprises like this.
I'm surprised the body has held out to the 'abuse' but not the oxidization. She's sat in uncontrolled environments for years. (sadly )

 
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Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Jun 29, 2021
#27
  • Jun 29, 2021
  • #27
I’ve seen worse fixed
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Jun 30, 2021
#28
  • Jun 30, 2021
  • #28
Check that cowel and floor at the toeboard. Oh, and the door jamb where the hinges bolt on.
 
Reactions: Gs1987GT and DarthBubbles

DarthBubbles

Member
Jun 28, 2020
22
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Jul 5, 2021
#29
  • Jul 5, 2021
  • #29
Digging a little further.
Interesting there is an extra box in the space in the frame to K box.
Drivers side is going to be in similar shape....

I will hopefully get the gearbox out this weekend and check all the firewall/floor.
The passenger jam has an extra hole but otherwise fairly solid as the passenger door opens and closes well.
(drivers side against the wall for now will check later)
More to come.




 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
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Massachusetts
Jul 5, 2021
#30
  • Jul 5, 2021
  • #30
The SN95 frame rails are much simplier inside than the fox. More open and less sandwiched metal to trap moisture.
 
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