FE Build 1989 5.0 won't start when hot except when using starting fluid

JoeysAutos

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It sounds like you've been beating your head over this for months.Your probably fed up,pissed to say the least.So just ease up on yourself and SLOWLY go over the list,every single step,step by step, just because the part was replaced does not mean it's good.I've learned this the f in hard way.Do not give up I know you can and will fix da fox.
Thank you for the words of encouragement. I'm really glad that the internet exists and that I can ask a bunch of Fox guys for their opinion instead of hoping some random mechanic would stumble upon the fix. Maybe it is something simple I've overlooked. That's why I really appreciate fresh eyes on this issue.

When you tested the coil when cranking power that was in the no start condition?
I know this is very frustrating, imagine on this side of it, I'm banging the kindle on my forehead screaming THIS SHOULD WORK!!! I feel that I could walk up to the car and look around, poke a test light around a few places and 'oh, here's the problem'.
And on your side of the interwebs you're doing the head slap thing and say'n 'I did that over and over and over again, same thing, IT DON'T WORK!!!!'.

That's a negative, family was asleep so I did not warm up the car prior to performing your test last night. I will be doing that today most likely.

I'm glad y'all are picking up on my frustration lol. It's not directed at you guys, it's this car. It hasn't ran right in the ~7 years that it's been sitting in my yard, and this particular issue I'm having makes no sense to me. In my mind an engine needs less fuel to start once it's hot, yet I'm having a fuel delivery problem that only causes a no-start when the engine is hot. I could have had this car back on the road years ago if it just had a carburetor... But I digress. If it truly is something simple and I look like a complete idiot that is totally fine with me because that means the damn thing is fixed. That's all that matters to me at this point. If I look like a fool on the internet, at least my friends will think I'm a Foxbody expert hahaha

Going to report back as soon as I get that test done. I will double and triple check everything, just let me know where you want that test light shoved and I'm happy to do it.
 
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JoeysAutos

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Alright here's the update. Got her nice and hot and stuck the test light in the red+lt grn wire at the coil and cranked it over, stayed lit the whole time. Definitely dimmed while cranking so went ahead and stuck the DVM in it this time and got 9.5volts while cranking, while in no-start condition.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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just let me know where you want that test light shoved and I'm happy to do it.
That statement can lead to some unhealthy suggestions but let's zip right past that.
You need to run the tests when the car is in the no start condition.
Let me ask this: have you noticed that the tach will stop working in the no start condition, normally the tach will move when cranking, my suspicion is the ignition switch or the pip, it is possible to get a distributor 'new' (rebuilt) with a bad pip or tfi. Sad but true.
 

JoeysAutos

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Alright alright it's confession time. I've been posing as a Foxbody owner this whole time, in reality I am the owner of a 1988 Lincoln Town Car with a 5.0 302. It's better that I just be honest, I don't know why I felt the need to lie other than to simplify things I guess. You can banish me to the Lincoln forums if you want. Nobody there knows a single thing about the 5.0 so all I've got to help me figure this out are Foxbody GT related forum posts scattered around the internet. In other words Foxbody guys are the only hope this Lincoln has before I scrap it. You're really all I've got.

To my knowledge, the electronics in the Fox 302 and Lincoln 302 are virtually indistinguishable aside from the instrument panel wiring. The Lincoln uses idiot lights instead of gauges. I've used the Foxbody checklists to fix numerous problems with this car with great success and accuracy. Even comparing the specs of Foxbody Forum posts to the Hanes repair manual for the Lincoln show the exact same ranges for voltages, resistance etc.

So, long story short, to answer your question: I don't have a tachometer lol please don't ban me. I already have the plastic off of the steering column if you need me to check any of the wires on the ignition harness under there. I did have issues with the harness in the past.
 

JoeysAutos

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Now that you’ve confessed...... we must see a picture of it!
I thought you'd never ask!
IMG_6762.JPG
IMG_6764.JPG


I think they only made around 5k of these with the gold grills and this paint. It's pretty menacing in person.
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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Alright jay, now that you've fessed up after wasting everybody's time here, the 2 ton behemoth that you led us to believe was a mustang is packed with a wopping 150hp of screaming low compression 5.0 that is much different than the HO version of the 5.0 that packs 225hp of tire fry'n power that, with the right mods, can alter time.
Yours, ahh, not so much.
Low compression
Different firing order, different cam, pistons,
Wiring may be similar.
Different computer.
Now the good news, diagnostic procedures are the same.
#1 top dead center procedure is the same
Firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
Make sure you are at tdc, pointer at the balancer is at 0*, rotor is pointing at #1 plug wire on distributor cap.
 

JoeysAutos

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Alright jay, now that you've fessed up after wasting everybody's time here, the 2 ton behemoth that you led us to believe was a mustang is packed with a wopping 150hp of screaming low compression 5.0 that is much different than the HO version of the 5.0 that packs 225hp of tire fry'n power that, with the right mods, can alter time.
Yours, ahh, not so much.
Low compression
Different firing order, different cam, pistons
Yeah yeah yeah... I'm horrible, my car is horrible... Yep. I deserved that. Look if you somehow fix this thing I will make sure you get some beers at my expense for your trouble. I mean that.

My theory is that I can still make it SOUND like your engine with header back exhaust and flowmaster 40s. Plus, low compression isn't all bad, I can shove a ton of boost into this thing if I wanted haha. Tons of room in the engine bay. The plan isn't to make it fast though, first if this thing EVER runs right it's gonna get a hitch slapped into it and pull cars around because I need a car hauler. And before anyone says "you can't do that" that just makes me want to do it more to prove you wrong. After I get together enough money for an even cooler car hauler this car is getting straight piped, diff welded, rear brake lines clamped and taken to burnout contests. Remember, I've still got the same amount of torque as you guys do, which is all you need to fry tires. But anyway, I'm getting WAY ahead of myself here. A guy can dream right?

I will report back with my findings of the TDC procedure asap.
 
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JoeysAutos

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Okay I've got her at TDC right now. Pointer is at 0* on the balancer and the rotor is pointing just a hair to the left of #1 plug wire. This is what we want, yes?
 

JoeysAutos

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Oh, okay well I hear you need a timing light to set timing and I don't have one of those... I've never touched the timing and I don't think the grandma that owned this car before me did either so I'm pretty certain it's at the stock 5* or whatever. I guess you want me to buy a timing light to verify that then?
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Call O'Reilly or AutoZone they may have a rental.
Mark the 10* btdc line on the balancer, also the 12* line and the 14* line.
Mine likes 12*.