Progress Thread 1989 GT Hatchback Restoration

[JasonRP]

Ok, the car is still at the fab shop, getting the floorpans replaced, and subframe connectors done at the same time.

I made my decision on the stereo too (even though I know I have WAY more things to fix before geeking out over the radio, I figured it would be a fun diversion!)

Last we left off, I was trying to decide which factory radio I wanted. And then I was trying to figure out how to get high-quality aux-in, so I could listen to my library on my phone, instead of cassettes, or CDs even.. I looked at the options: wired cassette tape looking interface, fm modulator (some even have blue tooth!), taking the radio apart and soldering in an alternative line-in signal wire.. Decisions decisions! PLUS: on eBay- the original radio (not the later one I showed) has crept up in cost.

I decided to list my requirements before purchasing:
-Decent sounding system. Not terrible, but not "audiophile" quality either.
-"Reasonable" level of power. I'm going to be using some sound deadening on the floor and doors, and I don't need max-butt-kicking-volume.
-Not super expensive. I have a lot of other things on the car to fix, and a budget.
-Not a huge power drain. I'd like to get away with using the stock alternator (75amp output?) This limits me from having monster power amp setup!
-Not ridiculously complex. This also limits me from having monster power amp setup.
-Bluetooth streaming, and phone call capability a considerable plus! This allows audio only navigation using a paired cellphone..
-Cassette player not needed whatsoever. CD player not really needed either.
-Satellite radio not mandatory, but a nice to have if I want to add it later.
-(this was the hardest one to hammer out)Single DIN footprint! I decided I didn't want to shave the stock amp bracket screws to get things to fit... and also this allows for the little under-radio cubby which is a nice spot for a phone and/or wallet.

These requirements helped me to see the factory radios in a better light; Neat, but pricey for not good quality sound (unless you add the amp, and even then), and NO modern features unless I have some goofy adapter setup. Not knocking folks that have the original HU- I think it looks cool and is a great match for the rest of the car... but, when I factor the cost in, not what I want..

Here's what I bought:

Price was $65.77 at Amazon, with Prime/free shipping. Features built-in amp (50x4 channel, 22 RMS), bluetooth streaming + phone + apps, USB port on face, color can be changed (two colors at once possible) for perhaps blending it into the car's interior look. Has a 10amp fuse (so I read this to mean <10amp power draw), Sirius/XM ready (gotta buy an extra receiver for that- which I've not done and don't think I will- at least not for now but nice to have the option) Has a jack on the back for wired microphone for the bluetooth phone. Also a jack on the back to have steering wheel controls added- which I don't think I'll do, but nice to have. Finally, there's a line-out on the back, if I want to add a powered sub down the road (this can be turned on or off in the head unit)

Leaning towards these speakers:

Thoughts? I'm not a ninja master when it comes to stereos.. I picked speakers that have at least (but not way more than) twice the RMS value of the amp, poly cones. All are listed at 4ohm (and this is within spec for the HU's built-in amp).. Rear is a 6x8, front is 5.25", plus tweeters (I'll install these in the dash position) that are wired off the main 5.25 speaker.. As the front speaker is listed as 4ohm, I think this means that connecting the whole 5.25 speaker + tweeter = 4ohm, and not 2ohm (which is out of spec for the amp).. If my assumption is true, this way I can power all 4 with the stock 4-channel amp built in to the HU.

Also considering upgrading the 6x8 1 level- to the Rockford punch series ($18 more...):

The tweeter portion certainly looks beefier- though I wonder if this is a trade-off for low/mids reproduction? I wonder if I should indeed go this route (the "punch" speakers) because otherwise I've only got the tiny tweeters in the front, and also the little tweeters that the "Prime" rear speakers would have, and I don't want to be wimpy on highs (especially since I can add a powered sub if I need to later)

This whole setup is (so far) very budget friendly- either option well under $200 (including the HU!)....
What do you guys think?

Jason

 

[KZGUNS]

Ok, the car is still at the fab shop, getting the floorpans replaced, and subframe connectors done at the same time.

I made my decision on the stereo too (even though I know I have WAY more things to fix before geeking out over the radio, I figured it would be a fun diversion!)

Last we left off, I was trying to decide which factory radio I wanted. And then I was trying to figure out how to get high-quality aux-in, so I could listen to my library on my phone, instead of cassettes, or CDs even.. I looked at the options: wired cassette tape looking interface, fm modulator (some even have blue tooth!), taking the radio apart and soldering in an alternative line-in signal wire.. Decisions decisions! PLUS: on eBay- the original radio (not the later one I showed) has crept up in cost.

I decided to list my requirements before purchasing:
-Decent sounding system. Not terrible, but not "audiophile" quality either.
-"Reasonable" level of power. I'm going to be using some sound deadening on the floor and doors, and I don't need max-butt-kicking-volume.
-Not super expensive. I have a lot of other things on the car to fix, and a budget.
-Not a huge power drain. I'd like to get away with using the stock alternator (75amp output?) This limits me from having monster power amp setup!
-Not ridiculously complex. This also limits me from having monster power amp setup.
-Bluetooth streaming, and phone call capability a considerable plus! This allows audio only navigation using a paired cellphone..
-Cassette player not needed whatsoever. CD player not really needed either.
-Satellite radio not mandatory, but a nice to have if I want to add it later.
-(this was the hardest one to hammer out)Single DIN footprint! I decided I didn't want to shave the stock amp bracket screws to get things to fit... and also this allows for the little under-radio cubby which is a nice spot for a phone and/or wallet.

These requirements helped me to see the factory radios in a better light; Neat, but pricey for not good quality sound (unless you add the amp, and even then), and NO modern features unless I have some goofy adapter setup. Not knocking folks that have the original HU- I think it looks cool and is a great match for the rest of the car... but, when I factor the cost in, not what I want..

Here's what I bought:

Price was $65.77 at Amazon, with Prime/free shipping. Features built-in amp (50x4 channel, 22 RMS), bluetooth streaming + phone + apps, USB port on face, color can be changed (two colors at once possible) for perhaps blending it into the car's interior look. Has a 10amp fuse (so I read this to mean <10amp power draw), Sirius/XM ready (gotta buy an extra receiver for that- which I've not done and don't think I will- at least not for now but nice to have the option) Has a jack on the back for wired microphone for the bluetooth phone. Also a jack on the back to have steering wheel controls added- which I don't think I'll do, but nice to have. Finally, there's a line-out on the back, if I want to add a powered sub down the road (this can be turned on or off in the head unit)

Leaning towards these speakers:

Thoughts? I'm not a ninja master when it comes to stereos.. I picked speakers that have at least (but not way more than) twice the RMS value of the amp, poly cones. All are listed at 4ohm (and this is within spec for the HU's built-in amp).. Rear is a 6x8, front is 5.25", plus tweeters (I'll install these in the dash position) that are wired off the main 5.25 speaker.. As the front speaker is listed as 4ohm, I think this means that connecting the whole 5.25 speaker + tweeter = 4ohm, and not 2ohm (which is out of spec for the amp).. If my assumption is true, this way I can power all 4 with the stock 4-channel amp built in to the HU.

Also considering upgrading the 6x8 1 level- to the Rockford punch series ($18 more...):

The tweeter portion certainly looks beefier- though I wonder if this is a trade-off for low/mids reproduction? I wonder if I should indeed go this route (the "punch" speakers) because otherwise I've only got the tiny tweeters in the front, and also the little tweeters that the "Prime" rear speakers would have, and I don't want to be wimpy on highs (especially since I can add a powered sub if I need to later)

This whole setup is (so far) very budget friendly- either option well under $200 (including the HU!)....
What do you guys think?

Jason

I have the same stereo and some of those speakers. I really like the stereo. Once you get through all the settings it sounds really good.

 

[JasonRP]

Ok. Slight update. I ended up getting the 5.25 speakers (and will mount the wired tweeters from those speakers in the dash locations). I read up more, and instead of getting either of the Rockford 6x8 speakers, I went to Best Buy, and got a set of Pioneer TS-A680Rs for the rear speakers:

Plus, picked up the SiriusXM receiver that works with my headunit.. $33 bucks on sale, and I do listen to XM a lot when baseball season is going..

Now I believe I have everything (except for the car- hope I get it back from the fab shop this upcoming week!) I am thinking about putting a layer of this on the floor once I get the car back: Amazon product ASIN B00URUIKAKView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00URUIKAK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AXJ5VNOZL83GP&psc=1

Essentially it is "Noico" brand, 80mil, butyl based deadener, with aluminum layer top and self-adhesive bottom. Planning to do just the floor- but if I have some left, I'll do a bit on the doors as well.

Once that's in place- I'll install the speakers. I have no idea what condition the speaker wires that are in the car are in. (Or the radio harness for that matter!) Once the radio is wired up and installed, then I'll finally be able to put the carpet in, and the interior back. I can't wait!!!

EDIT: Added a glamour shot..

 

[JasonRP]

Well.. The good news is, the subframe connectors are installed. Yay.

However....

There's some bad news: When they cut away the rusted out floor plans, they discovered the drivers' side A-pillar rotted out at the bottom.. And the bottom of the front drivers' side fender. And the passenger side outer rocker panel. We won't know the full extent until they get the front fenders off.

Suddenly, my "good deal" I was telling others about- isn't such a good deal

On the bright side- the shop is confident that it can be fixed, and fixed right. I sure am glad I didn't excitedly buy up a bunch of parts to finish the build, anticipating the floorpans being the limit of the damage. And very glad I didn't "go big" on the stereo equipment! Hope this doesn't get TOO expensive!! (just think, I was thinking that I'd be installing the stereo soon. ha ha ha!)

Before I dig into super research mode: Anyone got any quick summary info about fenders:
a) Do all 79-93 fenders fit? Or are the 79-86 fenders different than the 87-93?
b) Can I just swap over the GT aero stuff? The lower airdam/scoop parts, and the rubber trim?
c) OEM -vs- what's easily available today... Big difference in thickness, quality, fit?

Anyone got some OEM fenders they want to sell? Don't care about the color- but would like them to be relatively straight and rust free.

Hey look: from this angle, it doesn't look to bad!

 

[General karthief]

Don't use the 79-86 fenders, in fact, find some 92-3 fenders, the wheel opening is a little bigger, just get the side molding trim with them, 89 gt trim will not work.

 

[Davedacarpainter]

Been there!

I think the fenders changed for the '89 model year. I might be wrong though. Someone will chime in that knows. @BlakeusMaximus ?

It's good you're getting it all fixed now.

 

[JasonRP]

Got a fender- from an '89 GT no less, no rust as near as I can tell, other than the ground effects brackets- which I'll R&R later this week. $75, but I had to drive 1.5 hours each way to get it.. Still beats $200+ "freight" ones I found out-of-state wanted to charge.. Well, this one was out-of-state too, but, you know what I mean!

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

Been there!

I think the fenders changed for the '89 model year. I might be wrong though. Someone will chime in that knows. @BlakeusMaximus ?

It's good you're getting it all fixed now.

I’m not sure of the year, but I think that later foxbody has larger wheel openings just like thief said.

 

[kendawg73]

I’m not sure of the year, but I think that later foxbody has larger wheel openings just like thief said.

yeah, I think it's the 92-93 or maybe 91-93... I no it's not 90 (thats what I have..) I do think it's 92-93 though...

 

[General karthief]

Yes, 92-3 has a larger wheel opening for the 16" pony wheel option

 

[Mustang5L5]

91-93 has the larger opening for the pony wheel. Some of the trim is different too to compensate so you'd need those too.

79-90 is the same I believe

 

[JasonRP]

Yup- I did a little research- using this book (not sure if it is 100% accurate- but seems good?) It claims 1990 was the last year for the turbine rims; 1991-1993 got the pony rims- which I know are bigger. Would only make sense, that is when they changed the fender opening size- but who knows... I think I lucked out finding a 1989 fender locally.. The prices of the OEM stuff (even used) seems to be getting up there!

On the bright side- I heard back from the fab shop earlier in the week: They said there are no new surprises with respect to rust, so, once we get the outer passenger rocker, the driver a-pillar lower, and the floorpans welded in, I hope to be set!

Side question for all of you with subframe connector: do you use the subframe connectors when you put your car on a lift, or lift it with a floor jack and put on jack stands? Back in the day- I used to push the lift pads under the subframe in the front, and I'm guessing (been a while since I've looked) under the torque boxes in the rear?

The dudes at the fab shop think the rust I had was due to bad lift placement- my pinch welds are all kinds of f'd up, and there were other signs of people just kicking the lift feet under in a the general direction of "under the car" and lifting... The theory being, the metal (say the underside of a rocker) gets a bit crimped, the finish is compromised, and rust sets in..

 

[Mustang5L5]

Up front I put the jackstands either under the lower control arms, or on the k member. Lately I've been using the rear k member bolt are.

Out back, I jack under the center diff and put the stands under the torque boxes but I put a 1" board between the stand and torque box

 

[90sickfox]

I do the same. Jack and place stands under the front control arms... and place stands under torque boxes in the rear. I use folded rags for padding.

The lift manual says to place lift arms under the boxed frame section ( the part subframe connectors weld to up front ) and under the torque boxes.

On my car I've really been thinking of installing jacking rails.

 

[JasonRP]

Ok.. Finally did some stuff this weekend. First, I painted some new brackets (geeking out, after having to have rust repairs at a fab shop- now I'm priming and painting all metal parts that go on the car!) and riveted them on the fender. I also painted the rocker panel brackets (which the fab shop told me I also need to replace), and I'll be taking this stuff to the shop tomorrow am, so they can hopefully finish the car up this week. It will be good to have the car back! I do think I need to figure out a better way to paint stuff. Rustoleum (and any other consumer level spray paint in my opinion) is just fragile. You look at it wrong, and it will come off. That's with self-etching primer, and then color coat (lame a$$ yellow no less. At least no one will see it once it's installed!)

Next up- I got some "purple power" spray cleaner, after seeing some dudes on YouTube kick butt with it cleaning interior panels. I went to my parts pile, grabbed the center console stuff, and went to work. First spraying with purple power, and scrubbing with a scrub brush, and then paper towel dry. The paper towels turned brown- yuck! Maybe the previous owner was a smoker? Or, just 30 years of nasty = brown stuff on your paper towel.

Before:

I should mention- on the plastic piece that has the ashtray and the slot for the emergency brake lever, there was a crack on each side of the emergency brake slot. I put some blue tape over the crack to hold it together first, and sanded it a bit on the back side. I considered trying plastic welding, but decided to stick with what I know (fiberglass and epoxy).. So, I cut a two patches for each crack- one bigger than the first for each side.. Then mixed up the plastic two-part epoxy, put the smaller fiberglass patch on each crack, put more epoxy on it, and put the bigger patch down. Finally, I put more epoxy on each side so all patches/fiberglass is embedded. Then, once dry, I flipped it over, and removed the blue tape. There's just a tiny bit of overlap epoxy going around the edge to seal the crack on the top side. You can't even see it if you don't know what you're looking for.

Ok... Now that the cracks are fixed, time to get back to cleaning.. The purple power appears to be some pretty strong stuff, so, I decided the next step should be soap and water with scrub brush action, and paper towel dry.. Now the paper towels are coming back clean looking- I think this is a good sign. Finally a few spray downs with armor all, and dry with paper towel- as I think the purple power cleans well, but makes the plastic look chalky.. Now these old plastics are looking pretty good! (Good for 30 years old, and cleaning and armor all. I'll have to check out that SEM paint I see for sale on LMR if I want the ash tray door to match.)

After:

I've just got the new carpet kit from ACC (dark smoke I think it's called?) and the ash tray repair kit- so once I get the car back, and I've installed the sound matt, these items will be next, along with the stereo install.

Jason

 

[JasonRP]

Stopped in to the fab shop to drop off rocker panel #2. The one obtained from NPD seems to be a better fit. While I was there, I took pics of the car- work in progress, but getting close (just needs the rocker panel welded on)..

Here's a pic of the floor pans, installed now:

This show shows the repaired bottom of the A-pillar:

The trunk/spare tire well rust is now repaired:

Here's an overall pic- fenders and front bumper cover off:

The car is gonna need a major vacuum and clean out before I do anything else. We found a couple of small instances of rust- one right near the driver's side mount for the sway bar on the frame rail, and one on the passenger side windshield base (was hidden by the fender).. Both are not too bad (lots of good metal still there)..

Once they get the rocker panel on, I've asked them to evaluate the frame rail part; I'd rather they fix this one now.. The windshield one I'm debating: I'd really like to get the car home to put the interior back in. What do you guys think? Fix now? If this is fixed later, does the dash and interior need to be yanked out? I don't have a good pic of it, but this one sort of shows it:

Thoughts?

 

[BlakeusMaximus]

Might as well do it now, it’s already apart and already at the body shop. It’ll be cheaper in the long run for you to do it now too.

 

[JasonRP]

Well, Craigslist to the rescue!!! I found a guy 1.25 hours away, who has many foxbody mustangs in various states of parting out, plus multiple "buildings" on his property, filled with parts. I bought two front seats, front seat belts (the ones that came with my car are ripped and stained), another 85MPH speedo (bought for insurance- as my wires are starting to delaminate off the film circuit board on the back), all the seat bolts and plastic seat bolt covers, a spare tire fibreboard cover, the two round plugs on the center console armrest, a 1989 owner's manual, a stock airbox, and the parts I needed to get rear-window defrost enabled (the hazard switch with the defrost button, the defroster relay module).. All for $150.00. The seats are in good shape- not bent (like my drivers seat is), and recovered (they did OK.. no rips, looks nice, but they must not have used new foam, as they look just a little bit deflated..) Oh! The head rests on the two seats I picked up look a little short.... Wonder if these were originally from a convertible?

The spare tire cover appears to be from an SN95, but I here they have the same exact tire well? Hoping this works...

At any rate, I'm getting a little stir crazy without the car. I have decided (I had some time to think on the drive to the parts guy's place and back) that I will do this restoration of my car in two phases:
Phase 1: Get it running well, driving well, safe, and officially Maryland State Inspected (which is VERY thorough) so that it can be tagged as a regular vehicle (in MD, we can also have them tagged as "historic"- much less stringent mechanically to do, but, you can't drive it every day to work, etc.) Paint will be limited to as nice as I can make the car look with spray paint in my own garage. I'll put the interior back together, fix up things here and there, while using/driving/enjoying the car.

Phase 2: After I've used the car for a bit, and gotten to know it a little better (and saved up a few bucks) I'll pull the motor and rebuild it. I'll also pull the trans and check through it, remove the interior again and the dash if necessary, have the car towed back to the fab shop, and have them fix the remaining rust (I can't tell until I see the car again, if it needs the cowl panel, or the windshield base, or both. Obviously the windshield will need removed to get in there. I figure this can be addressed better with the engine and dash removed too. I'll have the fab shop fix the rear quarter panel, and drivers side door lower too. Then, the car can be taken to a body shop for real paint.

Not 100% sure yet, but either leaning towards rebuild of car to be mostly stock (maybe flowmaster 40s!), or if I want to go GT40 heads, roller rockers 1:7, street cam, BBK shorties, H-pipe, etc. to try to get around 300 at the wheels. Either way, the car will be a driver.

Couple of questions for you gurus out there:
1) Anyone rebuilt your seats? If a seat is bent so that it is leaning back on one side, what can this be? Are the seat frame parts interchangeable from driver to passenger seat? Ulimately, I'm hoping I can get some use out of the seats I bought, but also use the frame parts, to re-build my stock driver's seat (which is bent, and the vinyl is screwed up, but the grey plaid is still in good shape).. The stock passenger seat looks like new still- and my back seats will look nice once cleaned up- so ultimately I'm hoping to get them all matching with the original fabric...
2) The stock airbox I got, has a torn rubber seal where it fits against the inner fender wall. Anyone have any ideas on replacement for this seal?

 

[Davedacarpainter]

My driver’s seat was leaning because of a crack in the right rear floor mount. I welded it up. Works great. No lean now.

Yours might be a different problem though.

 

[DSB88GT]

Wow...nice score! Where exactly is this guy located with all the Fox parts? I'm in PA and would be interested in seeing what he has.