1989 n/a 2.3 auto - stalling issue

vristang

15 Year Member
Mar 31, 2005
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Seattle
I just got this thing running again, after several years parked.
It has stalled a couple times, coming to a stop. Runs great otherwise, smooth, no miss, perfect. Always restarts immediately.
Don’t know much about autos, so been wondering what could cause it there?
Not disengaging the way it should at a stop?
Haven’t run codes yet, but wouldn’t expect to get any. No cel, and seems to run great… other than this stalling when coming to a stop…

Any suggestions?
 
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Thanks guys!
Well, didn’t have time to look at it after work.
This morning, the shifter moves free, but trans was slow to engage, or wouldn’t engage reverse and drive. When it does engage, it engages hard.
Called in sick of work, so I’ll have some time today to look at it…

Idle is good, and strong. Will check for codes and vac leaks, but it feels more like something with the auto trans than the engine….
All I did was put a fresh battery in it to get it running. Otherwise, the car is surprisingly stock.
 
If you are suspecting a transmission issue, then I would think the torque converter is causing the problem. Essentially like coming to a stop with a manual transmission and not pushing down on the clutch pedal.

EDIT: Although I should add that there can be problems internal to a transmission that would cause the torque converter to stick, so be aware that having the entire transmission overhauled may be the best bet in that situation.

Or swapping to the much more reliable T5 manual, as the A4LD is a known problem child.
 
possible trans or converter issue, as said.

Or an IAC issue, seen that before too.

"could" be lots of things. Vacuum leaks can also cause this type issue. So can wiring issues and/or computer issue.

As far as the A4LD, they really aren't "junk" but they are peculiar. Rebuilding one isn't terribly hard, but tedious and rebuild parts are getting harder to find nowadays. Pull the dipstick. If the trans fluid smells burnt, figure on a rebuild. If you rebuild it yourself, you can get the internals from a 4.0L V6 A4LD application (Ranger....) and that'll help the A4LD last a long time. Converting to 5 speed is an option but it's not an easy swap--you'd need a computer, some wiring harnesses, etc.
 
Well, this is embarrassing.
Fluid level was low.

Had it checked off on my checklist, but here we are…. Took almost 2 quarts…

It is engaging as it should. Will have to drive it a little to see if fluid level maintains, and see if the stalling issue comes back.

Spilled a ton of trans fluid on the exhaust while filling it, so going to smoke my way down to the parts store and back…

Only codes that came up were Koer, evp and egr.
 
So it still stalls coming to a stop. When putting it in D, it feels pretty harsh too.

Koer codes were egr/evp.
No Koeo codes

I’ve been putting it in neutral when coming to a stop, putting it back in drive once stopped, and don’t get any stalls.

I would prefer to get some miles on this car before making any major swaps/rebuilds. But t5 or newer auto are on the table…
 
I don’t notice it downshifting, or shifting ever for that matter. Runs smooth…
Found the attached in a diagnostic manual, suggests tps or converter clutch solenoid

No codes for tps, but I’ll voltmeter it just to be sure…
 

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My experience in used cars for 20 years is that TCC Solenoid is rarely the actual issue - they get jammed up my foreign materials in the fluid more often (such as burned clutch materials) which is why I would recommend a complete overhaul as opposed to going in and replacing the solenoid.

Without knowing what your plans are for the vehicle it is difficult to make a recommendation. If this is just a daily beater, then the easiest route is to have the current transmission rebuilt. If you want to make it a little more fun to drive (and frankly more reliable) then I'd go with a T-5 swap. As Junkyardwarrior mentioned, it is a bit more involved and ultimately will probably be slightly more expensive. However (you didn't mention the year of the car) with 105 HP on tap at best, these cars are at least tolerable to just drive around with a manual. If you go Turbo you will probably change the transmission regardless.
 
Long term, it will be daily driver/project car
I have a turbo and a volvo 4v head laying around.
My previous 87 2.3 LX, had been converted to coil pack ignition, using a v8 ecu, tuned of course…. Will probably reuse that, which should mean any trans is an option…

Right now, it needs to get me to work long enough that I can get the last broken plug removed from my 06 navigator (3v 5.4).
I may just drive it as is for now.
 
Crap…
Test drive, picked up a new heater core…
Get back and something is smoking. Trans fluid is burning off on the exhaust.
Rapid dripping of trans fluid on the ground.

Sounds like front transmission seal is pretty common leak on these?
How likely am I to be able to pull it off in my driveway? In a day?
There is an alignment tool for the pump?
 
Shop estimate is in. Bare minimum $950. Potentially as much as $2200.
These cars used to be cheap to work on…
Have to evaluate options on this car, which cost me about as much as the low estimate.