1991 Ford Mustang LX 150K miles (roughly) Black, black/grey interior, 5 speed. $9000
Video of car running:
View: https://youtu.be/7oDZwLrsQC8
Engine - 347 stroker (built by Woody at Ford Strokers), ARP fasteners through out the engine, 170cc Trick Flow heads, Trick Flow R intake, Comp Cam (.590 lift, 260 duration IIRC, have cam card), Comp chromemoly roller rockers, SCAT crank, FMS SFI balancer, Moroso 8qt pan, 30lbs FMS injectors, matching Pro-M MAF, Walbro 255LPH in tank pump, Performance Distributors Hot forged distributor with Ford TFI remotely mounted, Taylor Cut to fit wires, MSD Coil, Mishimoto Aluminum Rad, Taurus fan, fan controller, Edelbrock billet water pump (car does NOT overheat ever with this setup), BBK Lontube headers, BBK matching H-pipe, Pypes M80 axleback (no drone, but car sounds like racecar if you run it hard), 3G alternator conversion with PA performance heavy gauge charge wire, prothane poly motor mounts.
Transmission - TKO 600, FMS SFI scattershield properly indexed), FMS SFI flywheel, MGW Shifter, FMS aluminum driveshaft, Prothane trans mount 500hp rated clutch Ram clutch IIRC, it's in the stack of reciepts. MM Aluminium quadrant, and new FMS clutch cable.
Rear - 8.8 Ford, 5 lug 31 spline Moser axles (ARP 3" studs, 5mm Eibach hub spacers), 31 spline Track lock (bought new, been in the car for like 500 miles), 3.55 gears, Trick Flow diff cover.
Chassis/suspension/brakes - Maximum Motosports sub frame connectors, Maximum Motorsports CC plates, H&R Road Race springs, Bilstien shock/struts, Maximum Motorsports rear lower control arms, 5 lug conversion (94GT spindles), Mach 1 twin piston calipers, zinc coated cross drilled rotors/ ranger rear drums (this setup is the way to keep the car balanced without switching the booster/master cylinder setup, car stops FAST). Replaced lower control arm bushings with poly bushings, new ball joints, reman PS rack, new PS pump, and tie rods, and sway bar bushings(poly) when I did the 5 lug conversion.
Wheels/tires - AM 18x9 18x10 reps with Michelin Pilot Super sports 275's front 285's rear.
Interior is in decent shape, isn't a show car, driver's side seat is worn through on the bolster, carpet is grey in the back, but I do have black carpet to match the front, has working stereo (Sony), A/C and heat don't work, A/C did function until the evap core ruptured, heater core also started leaking so I bypassed it, since they are both in the dash box they can be replaced at the same time. Steering wheel is worn at the top, cruise control stopped working recently, likely the modulator, never looked into it cause I stopped daily driving the car a couple years ago. Car has rust in the hatch (as per usual) however I will include a black fiberglass hatch that will not rust, just needs the glass set/sealed.
Car is running on a stock A9L tune (so there is potential to be unlocked there despite the fast that it runs very well on this tune). Driver's side rear tire rubs on the inner fender a bit during articulation/hard cornering(doesn't hurt the tire, just sounds unsettling), long term plan was a Watts link or a Cobra IRS, that would be the best match for the way the car is built IMO. Car has chips in the hood, doors, normal wear for a 28 year old car. All the lights work, wipers, etc, currently inspected/registered until June 2020. No Trades, no joyrides.
Video of car running:
Engine - 347 stroker (built by Woody at Ford Strokers), ARP fasteners through out the engine, 170cc Trick Flow heads, Trick Flow R intake, Comp Cam (.590 lift, 260 duration IIRC, have cam card), Comp chromemoly roller rockers, SCAT crank, FMS SFI balancer, Moroso 8qt pan, 30lbs FMS injectors, matching Pro-M MAF, Walbro 255LPH in tank pump, Performance Distributors Hot forged distributor with Ford TFI remotely mounted, Taylor Cut to fit wires, MSD Coil, Mishimoto Aluminum Rad, Taurus fan, fan controller, Edelbrock billet water pump (car does NOT overheat ever with this setup), BBK Lontube headers, BBK matching H-pipe, Pypes M80 axleback (no drone, but car sounds like racecar if you run it hard), 3G alternator conversion with PA performance heavy gauge charge wire, prothane poly motor mounts.
Transmission - TKO 600, FMS SFI scattershield properly indexed), FMS SFI flywheel, MGW Shifter, FMS aluminum driveshaft, Prothane trans mount 500hp rated clutch Ram clutch IIRC, it's in the stack of reciepts. MM Aluminium quadrant, and new FMS clutch cable.
Rear - 8.8 Ford, 5 lug 31 spline Moser axles (ARP 3" studs, 5mm Eibach hub spacers), 31 spline Track lock (bought new, been in the car for like 500 miles), 3.55 gears, Trick Flow diff cover.
Chassis/suspension/brakes - Maximum Motosports sub frame connectors, Maximum Motorsports CC plates, H&R Road Race springs, Bilstien shock/struts, Maximum Motorsports rear lower control arms, 5 lug conversion (94GT spindles), Mach 1 twin piston calipers, zinc coated cross drilled rotors/ ranger rear drums (this setup is the way to keep the car balanced without switching the booster/master cylinder setup, car stops FAST). Replaced lower control arm bushings with poly bushings, new ball joints, reman PS rack, new PS pump, and tie rods, and sway bar bushings(poly) when I did the 5 lug conversion.
Wheels/tires - AM 18x9 18x10 reps with Michelin Pilot Super sports 275's front 285's rear.
Interior is in decent shape, isn't a show car, driver's side seat is worn through on the bolster, carpet is grey in the back, but I do have black carpet to match the front, has working stereo (Sony), A/C and heat don't work, A/C did function until the evap core ruptured, heater core also started leaking so I bypassed it, since they are both in the dash box they can be replaced at the same time. Steering wheel is worn at the top, cruise control stopped working recently, likely the modulator, never looked into it cause I stopped daily driving the car a couple years ago. Car has rust in the hatch (as per usual) however I will include a black fiberglass hatch that will not rust, just needs the glass set/sealed.
Car is running on a stock A9L tune (so there is potential to be unlocked there despite the fast that it runs very well on this tune). Driver's side rear tire rubs on the inner fender a bit during articulation/hard cornering(doesn't hurt the tire, just sounds unsettling), long term plan was a Watts link or a Cobra IRS, that would be the best match for the way the car is built IMO. Car has chips in the hood, doors, normal wear for a 28 year old car. All the lights work, wipers, etc, currently inspected/registered until June 2020. No Trades, no joyrides.