I had posted in another thread and jrichker suggested I start a new thread for the discussion. I have a 1991 LX Convertible 5.0 that has had an engine swap back to a stock 5.0 (it's a long story but suffice to say there will be an upcoming project). I am having trouble pulling codes using the method posted by jrichker (a method I have used successfully many times in the past and I just used on my 1995 F 150). I have a 1991 LX 5.0 Convertible and I the specific problem that I am having is that it shuts off when I push in the clutch or come to a stop, not always just most of the time. When following the analog meter method to pull codes I get nothing, but I believe something is amiss and here is why. When using this method, http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/, on my truck I get codes. The difference is that when the analog meter is hooked to my truck it reads 12 volts until the key is turned on and then it drops to 0 to begin the code sweep sequence. On my Mustang, it reads 12 volts when connected but it does not drop to 0 when the key is turned on and never sweeps the needle at all. I then read the thread below that was suggested by jrichker and hopefully we are on to the problem. According to the article:
"With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer
test ground (black/white wire) on the self test connector and battery
ground. You should see less than 1.5 ohms."
While I do have less than 1.5 ohms it practically an open circuit (much less than 1.5 ohms).
See http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=608084 for help.
Looking for help.
Thanks
"With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer
test ground (black/white wire) on the self test connector and battery
ground. You should see less than 1.5 ohms."
While I do have less than 1.5 ohms it practically an open circuit (much less than 1.5 ohms).
See http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=608084 for help.
Looking for help.
Thanks