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1993 LX 5.0 dies after ignition parts replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter Warhorse85
  • Start date Start date Aug 16, 2025
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Warhorse85

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#21
  • Aug 20, 2025
  • #21
Still no codes. Someone mentioned to check the ignition switch connector to see if it's loose. If it is it can get hot and act like a failed TFI module
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#22
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  • #22
It can cause all kinds of weird issues.
 

Noobz347

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#23
  • Aug 20, 2025
  • #23
Warhorse85 said:
I actually just learned about the thermal paste, and no I did not put any on the TFI. I will go get some and redo it.
Click to expand...

This would not be satisfactory to me. If it's already overheated even once, then it is no longer reliable.

Adding paste to an already burned up unit won't make it better.

Try a new TFI with paste.
 
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Warhorse85

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#24
  • Aug 20, 2025
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AeroCoupe said:
It can cause all kinds of weird issues.
Click to expand...
So I checked the ignition switch and it seems fine. I cranked it and it tried to start but wouldn't. Sometimes it would start if I feathered the gas pedal though but not run long. It would sputter out
 
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rwordenjr

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TFI TFI TFI. I've had multiple brand new ones fail right out of the box from various brands (Motorcraft, Standard, etc..). I found 2 brands that consistently work nowadays... Autozone part #F121 and Carquest part # CBA1188. Yes, you need thermal paste. Both of those part #'s should come with little packet of it to use. I can 99% guarantee you it's the TFI and possibly the PIP (if the TFI took the PIP with it). @Warhorse85
 
Last edited: Aug 21, 2025
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rwordenjr

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  • Aug 21, 2025
  • #26
KRUISR said:
What I meant was the parts were made by Standard Motor Products, Magna, Linamar, etc., not at a Ford owned plant. Sure, now all those companies manufacture overseas - hence made in China.
Click to expand...
Standard is made in USA but I've got 2 straight cooked ones from them.
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#27
  • Aug 21, 2025
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This has worked for several members here including myself.

Pardon Our Interruption...

www.ebay.com
 
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rwordenjr

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AeroCoupe said:
This has worked for several members here including myself.

Pardon Our Interruption...

www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
You can also test the TFI with a multimeter.
 
W

Warhorse85

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#29
  • Aug 21, 2025
  • #29
rwordenjr said:
TFI TFI TFI. I've had multiple brand new ones fail right out of the box from various brands (Motorcraft, Standard, etc..). I found 2 brands that consistently work nowadays... Autozone part #F121 and Carquest part # CBA1188. Yes, you need thermal paste. Both of those part #'s should come with little packet of it to use. I can 99% guarantee you it's the TFI and possibly the PIP (if the TFI took the PIP with it). @Warhorse85
Click to expand...
It only gets spark when the SPOUT connector is removed but still won't start with either the old one or the new one
 
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rwordenjr

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#30
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Warhorse85 said:
It only gets spark when the SPOUT connector is removed but still won't start with either the old one or the new one
Click to expand...
the new one you installed without thermal paste ? That one is fried from the heat
 
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Noobz347

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#31
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rwordenjr said:
the new one you installed without thermal paste ? That one is fried from the heat
Click to expand...

Yep. That's pretty likely.
 
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KRUISR

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#32
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  • #32
rwordenjr said:
TFI TFI TFI. I've had multiple brand new ones fail right out of the box from various brands (Motorcraft, Standard, etc..). I found 2 brands that consistently work nowadays... Autozone part #F121 and Carquest part # CBA1188. Yes, you need thermal paste. Both of those part #'s should come with little packet of it to use. I can 99% guarantee you it's the TFI and possibly the PIP (if the TFI took the PIP with it). @Warhorse85
Click to expand...
Unfortunately those two "brands" don't make parts either. They just re-brand someone elses part with their number on it. In all likelihood they are the same part - same third party manufacturer.
 
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rwordenjr

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#33
  • Aug 22, 2025
  • #33
KRUISR said:
Unfortunately those two "brands" don't make parts either. They just re-brand someone elses part with their number on it. In all likelihood they are the same part - same third party manufacturer.
Click to expand...
The carquest is made in USA by WVE. The autozone one used to be made by them too but not anymore. It's now made by WAI in China. Standard is made in USA but I cannot get a working one from them.
 

Mindseye007

10 years still blowing strong
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#34
  • Aug 22, 2025
  • #34
Warhorse85 said:
So I added thermal paste to the new TFI and no start. I reinstalled the old TFI and it struggled to stay running and then died. I disconnected the SPOUT connector and it started and then I set the timing and it ran for about 5-10 then died as if the ignition key was turned off and no restart. With the SPOUT connector disconnected I have spark and ground pulse at the 2 wire coil plug while cranking. Fuel pump does come on and primes when key is turned on.
Click to expand...
TFI Module 100% cooked , get a new one from Rockauto.

Motorcraft https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5434788&cc=1134010&pt=7172&jsn=17

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS LX223 https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=49708&cc=1134010&pt=7172&jsn=932

check your current TFI Module, by buying this off eBay https://www.ebay.ca/itm/26737177741...pid=5335821607&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1 and don't for get to buy a 9 Volt Battery.

You can relocate your new TFI module with this https://www.mccullyracingmotors.com/ best one out there.

Get some extra Arctic Silver 5 thermal paste https://www.ebay.ca/itm/16642480345...pid=5335821607&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

after it's all installed, your stang will fire right up…

Also, if you ever need your ECU repaired, this place is awesome and the best place to get it fixed at.







​


Ford Mustang 5.0 A9L A9P C3W A3M X3Z ECU Engine Computer Repair ServicePlease fill out the R&R form here once you've placed your order.Easy repair process1. Purchase repair service (this way helps us keep track of what's coming in for repair)2. Include order number with your computer and mail to...

www.theecuexchange.com
 
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Warhorse85

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#35
  • Aug 22, 2025
  • #35
So for shots and giggles last night I was chec5the ecu power relay and I decided to crack the engine and it started. Ran beautifully for 5-10 seconds and shutdown did that twice in a row then just cranked
 
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rwordenjr

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#36
  • Aug 22, 2025
  • #36
Warhorse85 said:
So for shots and giggles last night I was chec5the ecu power relay and I decided to crack the engine and it started. Ran beautifully for 5-10 seconds and shutdown did that twice in a row then just cranked
Click to expand...
Wasting time until you get new tfi
 
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Warhorse85

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Aug 22, 2025
#37
  • Aug 22, 2025
  • #37
rwordenjr said:
Wasting time until you get new tfi
Click to expand...
Just picked up a new TFI and ignition switch. I'm also going to tighten the terminals on the ignition switch plug
 
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Warhorse85

Member
Jun 17, 2023
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Aug 22, 2025
#38
  • Aug 22, 2025
  • #38
rwordenjr said:
Wasting time until you get new tfi
Click to expand...
Replaced TFI, charged battery, tightened terminals on ignition switch connector. Still no start
 

Mindseye007

10 years still blowing strong
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#39
  • Aug 22, 2025
  • #39
Warhorse85 said:
Replaced TFI, charged battery, tightened terminals on ignition switch connector. Still no start
Click to expand...
Buy the TFI checker of eBay and it will tell you if they are cooked or not it comes with instructions it's simple to use and dont forget you need a 9volt battery. Does it turn over? are you getting spark ? Fuel pressure ? Check the coil, I use the screamin diamon coil it's sweet.
Could be the pip in the distributor check the cap and rotor too.. you can find a nice oem distributor on ebay neo mustang sells them painted and all. I had the same problem as you and a new TFI fixed mine got the tfi from rockauto, standard motor products lx223.
 
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Warhorse85

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Jun 17, 2023
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Aug 22, 2025
#40
  • Aug 22, 2025
  • #40
Mindseye007 said:
Check the fuel pump relay to it might be shorting out...try a new one.or maybe your ignition key lock cylinder might be shorting out or loose. Change that to.
Click to expand...
Has fuel pressure, new tfi, coil, maf, egr, cap rotor, plugs and wires. Crank/no start
 
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