I think you should have the A9P ECU because your car is automatic...might solve your issue.
I think you should have the A9P ECU because your car is automatic...might solve your issue.So I circled the capacitors. The one circled in red has 37k ohms of resistance. The one circled in blue has 622 ohms of resistance. The one circled in yellow has 5.6k ohms of resistance. Now in the close up photo of the backside of the ECM, the object I have circled in red has 3.5k ohms of resistance
So that ECU is actually a reman one. The factory tag was covered up with a solid white sticker to hide it and the was a sticker that was added that had a barcode, part number and said reman on it. I have a feeling that at one point it was for a manual trans car but was reprogrammed or they used the case from one car and the guts from another car. The car has been running fine unit a month and a half ago and I've had the car for 3 yearsI think you should have the A9P ECU because your car is automatic...might solve your issue.
So I contacted my local Ford dealer and gave them the VIN and they told me there is no difference between the A9L and A9P because the transmission is controlled by vacuumI think you should have the A9P ECU because your car is automatic...might solve your issue.
The A9P This is a common ECU for 5.0L mass air automatic transmission models.So I contacted my local Ford dealer and gave them the VIN and they told me there is no difference between the A9L and A9P because the transmission is controlled by vacuum
Then why do all foxbody automatics come with a A9P ECU?
The reman A9L is much cheaper than the A9P tooI vaguely recall that there were some differences in the strategy between the Auto and the Manual.
Either ECU will run either trans setup — people swap them all the time.
If you run an A9P in a stick car, it’ll work fine, just a touch smoother.
If you run an A9L in an AOD car, it’ll work but shifts can feel harsher because the ECU isn’t pulling timing where the A9P normally would.
Pretty common answer for a tech that has no idea unless a scanner is involved.So I contacted my local Ford dealer and gave them the VIN and they told me there is no difference between the A9L and A9P because the transmission is controlled by vacuum
I thought the transmission was controlled by a TV cable.So I contacted my local Ford dealer and gave them the VIN and they told me there is no difference between the A9L and A9P because the transmission is controlled by vacuum
It is, that guy at the dealership is confused,hes thinking of transmissions before the AOD like a C4 and C6,i quit calling Ford about things with my Mustangs along time ago being that they are 30 plus years old, its like calling Boeing and asking question about the Wright flyer,after reading this whole thread it does sound like the computer has or is going south,i think the poor car had a rough life before its current owner and its starting to show it and act up, mismatched parts and awful things like that.I thought the transmission was controlled by a TV cable.
Will die on the tfi/pip hill.Ok everyone, I sent the computer out for a rebuild and they were able to repair it. I sent it to fox mustang restoration and they told the there were many issues with the computer that are now fixed. Just got it back into the car and still cranks but no start. Has fuel but has no spark.
Did you check the tfi? That's what happened to me got the ecu back and my car would still crank and not start. Bought the Motorcraft TFI plugged it in and my car fired right up...ran beautifully.Ok everyone, I sent the computer out for a rebuild and they were able to repair it. I sent it to fox mustang restoration and they told the there were many issues with the computer that are now fixed. Just got it back into the car and still cranks but no start. Has fuel but has no spark.
He did but people don’t seem to get just how bad the reliability is on brand new tfi/ pip parts. I have gotten numerous bunk brand new tfi’s out of the box from multiple manufacturers. By the way, you can actually test your tfi with a multimeter.Did you check the tfi? That's what happened to me got the ecu back and my car would still crank and not start. Bought the Motorcraft tfi, plugged it in and my car fired right up...ran beautifully.
It has a new tfi in it but I was thinking of putting the factory on back in it and see what happensDid you check the tfi? That's what happened to me got the ecu back and my car would still crank and not start. Bought the Motorcraft TFI plugged it in and my car fired right up...ran beautifully.
When I was reconnecting the battery, the wrench slipped and touched both terminals briefly and sparked. Could I have popped an ignition fuse? If so where is that located so I can check itI haven’t swapped my TFI yet but I can attest to them not working out of the box. I bought a Motorcraft one as a backup and a TFI tester. First one couldn’t get the tester light to illuminate, exchanged it for another and it did get the test light to light up. I also tested the second one with a DVM… should have tested the first one but I didn’t know you could do it at the time.
Reinstalled the factory TFI module, still no spark. If I unplug the SPOUT connector, I get spark but still won't startHe did but people don’t seem to get just how bad the reliability is on brand new tfi/ pip parts. I have gotten numerous bunk brand new tfi’s out of the box from multiple manufacturers. By the way, you can actually test your tfi with a multimeter.
Tfi is not involved if the spout is disconnectedReinstalled the factory TFI module, still no spark. If I unplug the SPOUT connector, I get spark but still won't start
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