1997 Mustang Engine Swap.. Am i hurting the new engine?

Warleader165

New Member
Jan 27, 2020
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Hi i'm still pretty new to mechanical work and just interested in seeing if i could possibly be damaging my new engine.

I use 10w30 Synthetic oil. (Recommended 5w20)

I have a 97 Mustang GT, recently swapped with a 2011 CVPI engine 105k miles (Put in when it had 95k). I've put a good 10k miles on the engine within 5 months (I do A LOT of driving).

Also is there a difference from the 97 4.6 to the 2011 4.6 apart from intake and heads? Are the police interceptors different?

I've also swapped out the timing chains (Started knocking against cover at 100k).

I wanted to know if these engines are reliable and strong, i do race the car everyday (Transmission was built for it, it's standard).. i don't know what kind of wear i'm putting on it and i'm just curious.. i'm not really easy on it apart from when i first put it in, i broke it in the first 1000 miles since the police car sat for awhile. What mileage do these engines usually last? My old 4.6 engine started smoking blue lightly around 190k (Estimated) odo stopped at 142k.

FYI: I'm not a crazy driver or anything, i respect other motorist etc.. i just enjoy the speed and feel of the car.

This is strictly out of curiosity so i really appreciate the replies!

Thank you all!
 
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08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
858
133
53
49
Massachusetts
Hi,
Any specific reason you run 10-30 vs 5-20wt? I add a Mechanical oil pressure gauge on near every motor I’ve ever cared about. Simple, they never lie, provides clues to the motor’s inner health.
So, from the 2V 4.6 in your 97’ GT, you swapped in an 11’ CVPI 2V 4.6..
Curious..Did your 97’s 4.6l have the PI swap done?
Better Cams/Heads/Intake. (90% Intake). This is a combo from Ford made specific to boost the 96’-97’ GT’s HP/Tq output. You buy the parts & install (or have another install).
No Computer Tuning required.
If the previous owner did the Factory PI swap, the 97’ would’ve jumped from 215HP to around 260HP, CR would be higher (10.5:1 with the 96’-97’s Pistons) adding a few more HP, but you needed to run 91 Octane.
The 2011 4.6l CVPI rates @250HP.
Most 96’-97’ Owners did this swap.
Any questions, feel free to ask. I’d posted a link for more on the 4.6’s down below.
So, Driving aggressively is not going to hurt your healthy 4.6l providing you stay within the limits of the motor, and solidly maintain it.
4.6’s are a very Sound setup, internally balanced, near square Bore/Stroke (90.2mm, 90mm).
Valve seals were an issue in the earlier motors Heads (like your 2V 97’). This was addressed in the PI 2V Heads, later Heads, or by installing good Viton Seals.
4.6l Modular motors used a few blocks over their timeline. Romeo, Windsor, Tekskid, WAP, & if you ever want to swap modular parts, This can get quite confusing..
Lots of archived info on this subject on Stangnet.
Good info on the 4.6l Modular Motors to feed some of your curiosity....


Good luck with it, the 4.6’s have been at 400K and still run strong. Maintain it.
Best!
-John
 
Last edited:
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Warleader165

New Member
Jan 27, 2020
13
0
1
22
Texas
Hi,
Any specific reason you run 10-30 vs 5-20wt? I add a Mechanical oil pressure gauge on near every motor I’ve ever cared about. Simple, they never lie, provides clues to the motor’s inner health.
So, from the 2V 4.6 in your 97’ GT, you swapped in an 11’ CVPI 2V 4.6..
Curious..Did your 97’s 4.6l have the PI swap done?
Better Cams/Heads/Intake. (90% Intake). This is a combo from Ford made specific to boost the 96’-97’ GT’s HP/Tq output. You buy the parts & install (or have another install).
No Computer Tuning required.
If the previous owner did the Factory PI swap, the 97’ would’ve jumped from 215HP to around 260HP, CR would be higher (10.5:1 with the 96’-97’s Pistons) adding a few more HP, but you needed to run 91 Octane.
The 2011 4.6l CVPI rates @250HP.
Most 96’-97’ Owners did this swap.
Any questions, feel free to ask. I’d posted a link for more on the 4.6’s down below.
So, Driving aggressively is not going to hurt your healthy 4.6l providing you stay within the limits of the motor, and solidly maintain it.
4.6’s are a very Sound setup, internally balanced, near square Bore/Stroke (90.2mm, 90mm).
Valve seals were an issue in the earlier motors Heads (like your 2V 97’). This was addressed in the PI 2V Heads, later Heads, or by installing good Viton Seals.
4.6l Modular motors used a few blocks over their 91’-2011’ timeline. Romeo, Windsor, Tekskid, WAP, & if you ever want to swap modular parts, This can get quite confusing..
Lots of archived info on this subject on Stangnet.
Yes. Were (internal) 4.6l engine changes between 1997-2011. More due to the 97’ being a Romeo motor, the 11’ Mustang GT became a completely different platform. Earlier (to 2004) changes were mostly different in physical size/setup, not HP gains.
Mustang GT’s began running 3 Valve Heads 2005+.w/ Variable Valve Timing.
If you’re asking if the Mustang’s motors are different than the CVPI motors, same year vs.year- they’re (internally) much the same stout platform.
But Mustangs GT Motors evolved so much further, externally..
As you mentioned, several top end changes did occur, such as Heads, intake manifolds, Cams, TB’s, exhaust Manifolds & systems, air boxes, tuning, DBW, etc. 2005 hit, then GT’s really became different. 2011 hit, and the 5.0l displacement was back...150HP over the 4.6l 2011 CVPI’s.
Good info on the 4.6l Modular Motors to feed some of your curiosity....


Good luck with it, the 4.6’s have been at 400K and still run strong. Maintain it.
Best!
-John
Thank you very much John.

My old 97 never had the PI swap, everything was stock internals and it was never tuned.

I know il need a tune soon so i can take advantage of the PI motor.

I was told to run a bit thicker due to the mileage on the motor, not sure if i should or not but didn't think 10w30 would hurt.
 

08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
858
133
53
49
Massachusetts
Thank you very much John.

My old 97 never had the PI swap, everything was stock internals and it was never tuned.

I know il need a tune soon so i can take advantage of the PI motor.

I was told to run a bit thicker due to the mileage on the motor, not sure if i should or not but didn't think 10w30 would hurt.
Hi,
No problem. Still have your 97’ motor? If so, save it.
Increasing oil Viscosity isn’t one that you should follow unless you know for certain the oil pressure is running lower than required as result of worn bearings. Don’t just follow someone else’s hypothesis, prove it to yourself.
I’d doubt Rod/Main bearings would have any discernible wear with 100K on a 2011 Police Interceptor 4.6l. especially if from an ex Police Car, they’re generally very well maintained..
Thickening your oil that little isn’t directly harmful, but certain passages are designed to work best with thinner oil, clearances between bearings & components are engineered for a target viscosity, and viscosity adds more load to the oil pump that needs not be there. Crank has no Windage tray to displace it, slowing you down.
Relatively easy to determine your bearings health externally.
Synthetic lubricants have really evolved since years back to protect against such wear, nearly a 90% improvement over conventional oil. Dumping in higher viscosity's more a last resort to get you buy.
There’s many street friendly bolt-ons that’ll really wake that motor up considerably, 50HP+ with no tuning. Post if interested in ones that are the best bang for the buck.
Drive a lot over highways, or city?
Best!
-John
 
Last edited:

Warleader165

New Member
Jan 27, 2020
13
0
1
22
Texas
Hi,
No problem. Still have your 97’ motor? If so, save it.
Increasing oil Viscosity isn’t one that you should follow unless you know for certain the oil pressure is running lower than required as result of worn bearings. Don’t just follow someone else’s hypothesis, prove it to yourself.
I’d doubt Rod/Main bearings would have any discernible wear with 100K on a 2011 Police Interceptor 4.6l. especially if from an ex Police Car, they’re generally very well maintained..
Thickening your oil that little isn’t directly harmful, but certain passages are designed to work best with thinner oil, clearances between bearings & components are engineered for a target viscosity, and viscosity adds more load to the oil pump that needs not be there. Crank has no Windage tray to displace it, slowing you down.
Relatively easy to determine your bearings health externally.
Synthetic lubricants have really evolved since years back to protect against such wear, nearly a 90% improvement over conventional oil. Dumping in higher viscosity's more a last resort to get you buy.
There’s many street friendly bolt-ons that’ll really wake that motor up considerably, 50HP+ with no tuning. Post if interested in ones that are the best bang for the buck.
Drive a lot over highways, or city?
Best!
-John
I wish, i ended up selling it. My next oil change il go back to the synthetic 5w20.
Currently i have the screamin demon coil pack, cold air intake & 75mm throttle body, i tried adding my pullys back from my old engine but the water pump on this engine was bigger. What would be some other good bolt-ons?
I drive a mixture of both city and highway.
I appreciate all your replies!!
 

08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
858
133
53
49
Massachusetts
Hi,
Haven’t forgotten about you, I’ll have the mods info in the next day for you. Wondering interested in centrifugal super chargers- where everything on the motor stays at it is, it bolts up like the alternator, run by the serpentine belt, can yield a 150hp gain with no sacrifices in drivability, and quite safe for the motor..?
Turbo?
Roots type blower/Supercharger?
Or, only bolt-ons that’ll keep in normally aspirated?
What is your budget?
Is your travel expenses (fuel) paid for by work, or is your traveling all out of your pocket? Mentioned you drive a lot of miles.
Ok, Thanks!
Best!
John
 

Warleader165

New Member
Jan 27, 2020
13
0
1
22
Texas
Hi,
Haven’t forgotten about you, I’ll have the mods info in the next day for you. Wondering interested in centrifugal super chargers- where everything on the motor stays at it is, it bolts up like the alternator, run by the serpentine belt, can yield a 150hp gain with no sacrifices in drivability, and quite safe for the motor..?
Turbo?
Roots type blower/Supercharger?
Or, only bolt-ons that’ll keep in normally aspirated?
What is your budget?
Is your travel expenses (fuel) paid for by work, or is your traveling all out of your pocket? Mentioned you drive a lot of miles.
Ok, Thanks!
Best!
John
Sorry for the late reply, i've been away from a computer recently.

I can spend about $3k
My travel expenses are paid by work.
I'm very interested in bolt on mods like that, not sure what would be good though, i wanted to install a supercharger but which ones are decent?
Thank you
 

08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
858
133
53
49
Massachusetts
Sorry for the late reply, i've been away from a computer recently.

I can spend about $3k
My travel expenses are paid by work.
I'm very interested in bolt on mods like that, not sure what would be good though, i wanted to install a supercharger but which ones are decent?
Thank you
Hi,
You’re going to need to decide on FI or NA here sooner or later. You can leave the motor mostly as is and get great power out of it with NA. But it gets expensive- fast
For instance. The best NA Cams are usually the worst FI Cams. You could add some-goodLT Headers and a a Catted H pipe. MAF, TB, leave the Cams and Heads alone and get gain150HP out of it, great street mannerisms, and great tuning it’ll even gain some MPG.

Here a good read on this. I’d built a Turboe’d 97’ yrs ago, and it ran 11’a in street tires, was a DD. Very similar setup. I’ll caution you parts are getting more expensive and cheaply made by every few months.Youre looking at around 4K$ here. For a Motor setup. And you can transfer parts to a fresh motor later, you can for both setups.
Best bet is to build another motor while you’re driving this, have it ready to drop in, and ready for tuning. and you’re done. You can then get longevity. And build the car equally.

Leaving it bone stock, (Reciprocating Assembly), is not seek over 425-450HP MAX, by simply by limiting boost & not over revving it.
Up to what your looking for?. Want a little more grunt now?. But not quite the mileage you have, add some 3.73’s for rear end gears. a few hundred in basic bolt on’s.(Gears. Car will rev about 400 RPM’s more @80 than ow) But it’ll really make it much more fun!) Let the Company pay for the extra fuel, Gears are the best bang for the buck.
it’ll wake it up until you build “Frankenstein” over a bit of time..This is done by building THE motor in parallel while you’re driving this.
Buy the parts. Do what you want when you can- do not wait..This will up the game with 500+HP, but suggest supporting Mod’s


Then, there’s tan affordable FI swap. 4,000$, and a few extras. You can seek out parts looking through boneyards & want ads. Still they must be torn apart by a reputable automotive machine shop to verify they work right.
This is in a matched kit Just be sure with BOTH, you build the car equally.
Don’t want all this power you can’t plant, worse. Not stop, or isn’t predictable, Trans and tear and others built so you’re ready for it.
No areas here to cut corners, want it to run & drive and be reasonable for the street, and with octane available. -let the Company pay for the fuel!!
Many options with tuning, Dynotune, SCT, I’d look at a MEGASQUIRT 2. Easy to learn, and with each added component, you tweak your tune. Run a low CRatio, and you’re good as gold.
NA via TrickFlow.. one of many. This is around 380HP/380Ft/Lbs, and with si
E good bolt’s, most other Pony’s won’t know what hit them. There are several sites that sell these. I’d recommend looking around for prices. Then your Tuning options.
You can spend another 800$ and Tune it yourself with a MS2 CPU, goes in place if your stock EEC, and as you add more parts. You modify the tune for safe yet maximum gains.
It’s a learning process. But much easier than us cracking the codes in the old OBD-1 codesall those years ago. It’s In plain English.
The below NA setup, for instance- the TrickFlow top end/Cams, you’re looking at 4,800–5K$ here & a Dynotune w/Bolt-in’s.
So if you’re looking plug & play, I’d be looking at the FI setup, just my opinion. Built on a strong motor, you can squeeze every ounce out of it.



CHEAPLY made by making a plan.

Think, Research, LEARN! Don’t re-invent the wheel. Find your realistic goals. Buy the parts. Do what you want when you can- do not wait.. trust me!

MORE SPEED, less weight, MORE MONEY!
10sec 2V 4.6l Reliable 4.6l 97’ GT Build

First off it took two motors, a transmission, expensive fuel system, and an idiot to make my mind up to build my own builds.
Carefully plan the build for the BADARSE daily driver 97’ GT . I was trying to decide S/C or go Turbo. I started researching a found the best way to build is four basic steps.

1. Set a Goal for the car
Your goal: I wanted an all round good Daily Drive and track car that could run 11’s in the 120mph area in the 1320’s
2. Set a budget(3K$$...Math..like square Root’s, maybe...CUBES?
Budget from setups with separately purchased components can cost 12k+ (just bear with me).
3. Make a list of pros and cons
for options for the build, ice cold A/C, etc..
4. Don’t listen to the cookie cutter builders
With your goal research, understand the N/A and the two FI options
Supercharger or Turbo. The S/C path would have been easier but limited to a set power unless I spent extra for different tunes, pulleys, and I know from the S/C setups the maintenance is nonstop with a Daily Driver.
The Turbo path, simple to add power it was only a turn of a knob or button away. The maintenance was that of a factory car.
When researching, seek others that have similar setups. They’ll be happy to show you their cars/trucks, as most all are proud..
Take a ride I a few S/C mustangs and then in a Turbo Mustang. From that one ride the decision just MAY be made. TURBO!
Price lines up better, but see what suits you.

Another NA setup, parts selected that work well.
Scope::

Price:
97’ Mustang GT- 3,800lbs, 4.6l 2V iron block, D.S.S P&P pi heads , Comp 270Cams, T-45 or TR 6060 transmission, Factory 8.8 Rear-end, 26 Spline

NEED:
Rebuild short block, Build Transmission, Clutch, Fuel system, Rear-end, Gears(3.73’s will rev +400RPM’s at 80mph, Turbo, Wastegate, BOV, water to air intercooler, intercooler pump, different cooling Fan, Engine management, Transmission controller, Gauges, wideband, and supported materials for upgrades: Hose, fittings, wire, piping, etc…

Build as is, or another in parallel.
ENGINE:
Send the block out to get bored .020 over but use DSSracing engine cradle to help support decisions. Ask for Jed. He’ll help you out.. Block align bored/honed & Cyls boded/honed with deck plates, and reciprocating assembly weighted & balanced with new forged/Steel internals, a prepped Shortblock will cost a few grand. Same parts locally at a good shop will cost half that, you do the assembly, give them the block, Heads, less time spent taking things apart & assembling will cost you less. Get a good “Build a 4.6l 2V motor” book. Ask questions.
If this seems too hot for you, we can cut it back a tad. Many options!
Best of luck!!
-John
 

Warleader165

New Member
Jan 27, 2020
13
0
1
22
Texas
Hi,
You’re going to need to decide on FI or NA here sooner or later. You can leave the motor mostly as is and get great power out of it with NA. But it gets expensive- fast
For instance. The best NA Cams are usually the worst FI Cams. You could add some-goodLT Headers and a a Catted H pipe. MAF, TB, leave the Cams and Heads alone and get gain150HP out of it, great street mannerisms, and great tuning it’ll even gain some MPG.

Here a good read on this. I’d built a Turboe’d 97’ yrs ago, and it ran 11’a in street tires, was a DD. Very similar setup. I’ll caution you parts are getting more expensive and cheaply made by every few months.Youre looking at around 4K$ here. For a Motor setup. And you can transfer parts to a fresh motor later, you can for both setups.
Best bet is to build another motor while you’re driving this, have it ready to drop in, and ready for tuning. and you’re done. You can then get longevity. And build the car equally.

Leaving it bone stock, (Reciprocating Assembly), is not seek over 425-450HP MAX, by simply by limiting boost & not over revving it.
Up to what your looking for?. Want a little more grunt now?. But not quite the mileage you have, add some 3.73’s for rear end gears. a few hundred in basic bolt on’s.(Gears. Car will rev about 400 RPM’s more @80 than ow) But it’ll really make it much more fun!) Let the Company pay for the extra fuel, Gears are the best bang for the buck.
it’ll wake it up until you build “Frankenstein” over a bit of time..This is done by building THE motor in parallel while you’re driving this.
Buy the parts. Do what you want when you can- do not wait..This will up the game with 500+HP, but suggest supporting Mod’s


Then, there’s tan affordable FI swap. 4,000$, and a few extras. You can seek out parts looking through boneyards & want ads. Still they must be torn apart by a reputable automotive machine shop to verify they work right.
This is in a matched kit Just be sure with BOTH, you build the car equally.
Don’t want all this power you can’t plant, worse. Not stop, or isn’t predictable, Trans and tear and others built so you’re ready for it.
No areas here to cut corners, want it to run & drive and be reasonable for the street, and with octane available. -let the Company pay for the fuel!!
Many options with tuning, Dynotune, SCT, I’d look at a MEGASQUIRT 2. Easy to learn, and with each added component, you tweak your tune. Run a low CRatio, and you’re good as gold.
NA via TrickFlow.. one of many. This is around 380HP/380Ft/Lbs, and with si
E good bolt’s, most other Pony’s won’t know what hit them. There are several sites that sell these. I’d recommend looking around for prices. Then your Tuning options.
You can spend another 800$ and Tune it yourself with a MS2 CPU, goes in place if your stock EEC, and as you add more parts. You modify the tune for safe yet maximum gains.
It’s a learning process. But much easier than us cracking the codes in the old OBD-1 codesall those years ago. It’s In plain English.
The below NA setup, for instance- the TrickFlow top end/Cams, you’re looking at 4,800–5K$ here & a Dynotune w/Bolt-in’s.
So if you’re looking plug & play, I’d be looking at the FI setup, just my opinion. Built on a strong motor, you can squeeze every ounce out of it.



CHEAPLY made by making a plan.

Think, Research, LEARN! Don’t re-invent the wheel. Find your realistic goals. Buy the parts. Do what you want when you can- do not wait.. trust me!

MORE SPEED, less weight, MORE MONEY!
10sec 2V 4.6l Reliable 4.6l 97’ GT Build

First off it took two motors, a transmission, expensive fuel system, and an idiot to make my mind up to build my own builds.
Carefully plan the build for the BADARSE daily driver 97’ GT . I was trying to decide S/C or go Turbo. I started researching a found the best way to build is four basic steps.

1. Set a Goal for the car
Your goal: I wanted an all round good Daily Drive and track car that could run 11’s in the 120mph area in the 1320’s
2. Set a budget(3K$$...Math..like square Root’s, maybe...CUBES?
Budget from setups with separately purchased components can cost 12k+ (just bear with me).
3. Make a list of pros and cons
for options for the build, ice cold A/C, etc..
4. Don’t listen to the cookie cutter builders
With your goal research, understand the N/A and the two FI options
Supercharger or Turbo. The S/C path would have been easier but limited to a set power unless I spent extra for different tunes, pulleys, and I know from the S/C setups the maintenance is nonstop with a Daily Driver.
The Turbo path, simple to add power it was only a turn of a knob or button away. The maintenance was that of a factory car.
When researching, seek others that have similar setups. They’ll be happy to show you their cars/trucks, as most all are proud..
Take a ride I a few S/C mustangs and then in a Turbo Mustang. From that one ride the decision just MAY be made. TURBO!
Price lines up better, but see what suits you.

Another NA setup, parts selected that work well.
Scope::

Price:
97’ Mustang GT- 3,800lbs, 4.6l 2V iron block, D.S.S P&P pi heads , Comp 270Cams, T-45 or TR 6060 transmission, Factory 8.8 Rear-end, 26 Spline

NEED:
Rebuild short block, Build Transmission, Clutch, Fuel system, Rear-end, Gears(3.73’s will rev +400RPM’s at 80mph, Turbo, Wastegate, BOV, water to air intercooler, intercooler pump, different cooling Fan, Engine management, Transmission controller, Gauges, wideband, and supported materials for upgrades: Hose, fittings, wire, piping, etc…

Build as is, or another in parallel.
ENGINE:
Send the block out to get bored .020 over but use DSSracing engine cradle to help support decisions. Ask for Jed. He’ll help you out.. Block align bored/honed & Cyls boded/honed with deck plates, and reciprocating assembly weighted & balanced with new forged/Steel internals, a prepped Shortblock will cost a few grand. Same parts locally at a good shop will cost half that, you do the assembly, give them the block, Heads, less time spent taking things apart & assembling will cost you less. Get a good “Build a 4.6l 2V motor” book. Ask questions.
If this seems too hot for you, we can cut it back a tad. Many options!
Best of luck!!
-John
I appreciate the reply wow!! I'm sorry for my late reply, I've been dealing w a bad overheating problem ever since ive repaired my AC.. I just made another post about it..

Il check out some of these ideas though, hopefully my engine isn't damaged now due to the heat :/

Thank you again!! Il reply again soon once I fix this issue
 

08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
858
133
53
49
Massachusetts
Hi,
No worries. So, you’re overheating now..
Questions..
What occurred between this new overheating issue, and replacing your IAC?
Any other parts changed, sensors disconnected, etc?
(I see the things you replaced in your post, but before you replaced them- that’s the timeline I’m looking for information on).
Had no issues of this type before, correct?
Replaced all your shrouding, and your plug wires are 100% verified as being on the right cylinders, the Thermostat was replaced- installed in the right direction, are your cooling fan(S) (if running two) running when the engine starts getting warm?
Just so we don’t have 2 coincidental issues overlap, did you burp the radiator after you installed the water pump, certain it’s not airbound? Jack up & place stands under the car and allow the air to rise to the highest point, topping it off with coolant if it begins to get low.
Never add coolant to an engine with very low coolant levels while the engine is hot, the thermal shock from cold coolant in an engine that’s hot..can get spat right back in your face, crack the block, jar a freeze plug loose, crack a head, etc.
Motor running OK aside from the overheating, power, drivability, smooth running, etc?
How quickly does your car get to these high temps?
Does it “puke” into the overflow tank?
Does it get hot if left idling in the driveway, or only when driving?
How long does it take?
If only when driving, is it seemingly related to the speed of the car..or more like
the RPM’s the motor’s spinning at?
I see the post details. I’m going for the throat to eliminate a blown head gasket from the onset...
Engine cold, start the car with the Radiator cap removed. There should be a little turbulence here, coolant flow from the pump, but are there a stream of near continuous small/medium sized bubbles rising up to the surface of the coolant?
One way to make it safer to do this is by wearing a face shield, and safety glasses that puts a full sheet layer of durable plastic between your skin & potentially rapidly heating coolant that wants to jump out, safety glasses for extra eye protection.
No accidents-right?
Start the car with the cap off once- but just let it run for a few minutes, to make sure it doesn’t gush out-so you have a reference whether it’s safe to look into the open radiator when you start it from cold- and for how long it takes to begin getting hot.
—->know that it’s safe to look into the radiator before you let it cool down again and do it.(!)
The other, check your oil for any milky consistency- just pull the dipstick and have a look at it. If you’re uncertain- post a pic of it & we’ll take a look at it.
Ok, see what you find.
Best!
John
 
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V Overheating V6 1997 Mustang 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- 1
C Back To The Mustang World.... It's Been A While... 1997? The Welcome Wagon 2
Virgil D Engine 1997 Crank No Start, No Fuel Psi, Theft Flashing SN95 V6 Mustang Tech 2
F Progress Thread Is This 1997 Mustang Cobra Worth It? SVT Tech Forum 1
TheVandal Mustang 1997 V6 Swap V8 Reswap To Cv 46pol 2007 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- 0
S 1997 Mustang Gt Project 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- 0
zhendo95 Just Purchased; 1997 Mustang Gt - Need Advice SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech 0
K 1997 Mustang Gt How To Flash Ecu 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- 0
D Expired 1997 Mustang Cobra Convertible: Second Owner, Excellent Condition, Modified, 44,000 Miles SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 2
5 SOLD 1997 Ford Mustang Gt Convertible "aztec Gold" $4200 Obo Or Trade SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 0
VicFloCali11 Expired 1997 Mustang Cobra Convertible SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 0
VicFloCali11 Expired 1997 Mustang Cobra Convertible Blk 60k SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 0
3 Expired 1997 Mustang Gt / 5 Speed / 101,000 Miles / $4,500 Obo SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 0
R 1997 Japanese Mustang 3.8l The Welcome Wagon 2
M Expired 1997 Ford Mustang Gt, Low Miles, Upgrades SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 3
R Expired 1997 Mustang Convertible Cobra Steeda Vortech Supercharged 54k Miles SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 0
R Expired 1997 Ford Mustang Gt/100 Miles On Rebuilt Motor/151,000 On Body/performance Upgrades SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 0
moezart SOLD 1997 3.8 Mustang Suede Black SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 0
B Expired 1997 Mustang Cobra 42k Original Miles SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 0
BGR Expired 1997 Mustang Cobra SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 0
quigs_dpfd SOLD 1997 Mustang Cobra Conv't Only 3,184 Original Miles!!! SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 3
blackstallionride Expired 1997 Ford Mustang GT Convertible- Triple Black- Mach System PI Intake SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 0
demeter Expired 1997 Mustang Gt For Sale SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 0
Jeremiah Emerson Electrical Dome light always on in my 1997 Mustang SN95 V6 Mustang Tech 4
G 1997 Mustang air bag SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech 2
DonJohnsPerformance 1997 Mustang Gt 4.6l, 5spd - $3500 O.b.o. SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 1
Traveler327 Mustang Cobra 1997 SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 0
Jeremiah Emerson I Need To Take Some Panels Off My 1997 Mustang, But I'm Scared. SN95 V6 Mustang Tech 1
M Expired 1997 Mustang Steeda 97-004 Need To Sell $14000 SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 7
M 1997 Mustang Steeda Built 461 Rwhp SN95 Mustangs For Sale (1994-04) 1
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