Hi,
You’re going to need to decide on FI or NA here sooner or later. You can leave the motor mostly as is and get great power out of it with NA. But it gets expensive- fast
For instance. The best NA Cams are usually the worst FI Cams. You could add some-goodLT Headers and a a Catted H pipe. MAF, TB, leave the Cams and Heads alone and get gain150HP out of it, great street mannerisms, and great tuning it’ll even gain some MPG.
Here a good read on this. I’d built a Turboe’d 97’ yrs ago, and it ran 11’a in street tires, was a DD. Very similar setup. I’ll caution you parts are getting more expensive and cheaply made by every few months.Youre looking at around 4K$ here. For a Motor setup. And you can transfer parts to a fresh motor later, you can for both setups.
Best bet is to build
another motor while you’re driving this, have it ready to drop in, and ready for tuning. and you’re done. You can then get longevity. And build the car equally.
Leaving it bone stock, (Reciprocating Assembly), is not seek over 425-450HP MAX, by simply by limiting boost & not over revving it.
Up to what your looking for?. Want a little more grunt now?. But not quite the mileage you have, add some 3.73’s for rear end gears. a few hundred in basic bolt on’s.(Gears. Car will rev about 400 RPM’s more @80 than ow) But it’ll really make it much more fun!) Let the Company pay for the extra fuel, Gears are the best bang for the buck.
it’ll wake it up until you build “Frankenstein” over a bit of time..This is done by building THE motor in parallel while you’re driving this.
Buy the parts. Do what you want when you can- do not wait..This will up the game with 500+HP, but suggest supporting Mod’s
We take a junkyard 4.6l 2v ford motor and with a eBay we build a 592hp monster for $2,298. Only at www.hotrod.com, the official website for Hot Rod Magazine.
www.hotrod.com
Then, there’s tan affordable FI swap. 4,000$, and a few extras. You can seek out parts looking through boneyards & want ads. Still they must be torn apart by a reputable automotive machine shop to verify they work right.
This is in a matched kit Just be sure with BOTH, you build the car equally.
Don’t want all this power you can’t plant, worse. Not stop, or isn’t predictable, Trans and tear and others built so you’re ready for it.
No areas here to cut corners, want it to run & drive and be reasonable for the street, and with octane available. -let the Company pay for the fuel!!
Many options with tuning, Dynotune, SCT, I’d look at a MEGASQUIRT 2. Easy to learn, and with each added component, you tweak your tune. Run a low CRatio, and you’re good as gold.
NA via TrickFlow.. one of many. This is around 380HP/380Ft/Lbs, and with si
E good bolt’s, most other Pony’s won’t know what hit them. There are several sites that sell these. I’d recommend looking around for prices. Then your Tuning options.
You can spend another 800$ and Tune it yourself with a MS2 CPU, goes in place if your stock EEC, and as you add more parts. You modify the tune for safe yet maximum gains.
It’s a learning process. But much easier than us cracking the codes in the old OBD-1 codesall those years ago. It’s In plain English.
The below NA setup, for instance- the TrickFlow top end/Cams, you’re looking at 4,800–5K$ here & a Dynotune w/Bolt-in’s.
So if you’re looking plug & play, I’d be looking at the FI setup, just my opinion. Built on a strong motor, you can squeeze every ounce out of it.
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CHEAPLY made by making a plan.
Think, Research, LEARN! Don’t re-invent the wheel. Find your realistic goals. Buy the parts. Do what you want when you can- do not wait.. trust me!
MORE SPEED, less weight, MORE MONEY!
10sec 2V 4.6l Reliable 4.6l 97’ GT Build
First off it took two motors, a transmission, expensive fuel system, and an idiot to make my mind up to build my own builds.
Carefully plan the build for the BADARSE daily driver 97’ GT . I was trying to decide S/C or go Turbo. I started researching a found the best way to build is four basic steps.
1. Set a Goal for the car
Your goal: I wanted an all round good Daily Drive and track car that could run 11’s in the 120mph area in the 1320’s
2. Set a budget(3K$$...Math..like square Root’s, maybe...CUBES?
Budget from setups with separately purchased components can cost 12k+ (just bear with me).
3. Make a list of pros and cons
for options for the build, ice cold A/C, etc..
4. Don’t listen to the cookie cutter builders
With your goal research, understand the N/A and the two FI options
Supercharger or Turbo. The S/C path would have been easier but limited to a set power unless I spent extra for different tunes, pulleys, and I know from the S/C setups the maintenance is nonstop with a Daily Driver.
The Turbo path, simple to add power it was only a turn of a knob or button away. The maintenance was that of a factory car.
When researching, seek others that have similar setups. They’ll be happy to show you their cars/trucks, as most all are proud..
Take a ride I a few S/C mustangs and then in a Turbo Mustang. From that one ride the decision just MAY be made. TURBO!
Price lines up better, but see what suits you.
Another NA setup, parts selected that work well.
Scope::
Price:
97’ Mustang GT- 3,800lbs, 4.6l 2V iron block, D.S.S P&P pi heads , Comp 270Cams, T-45 or TR 6060 transmission, Factory 8.8 Rear-end, 26 Spline
NEED:
Rebuild short block, Build Transmission, Clutch, Fuel system, Rear-end, Gears(3.73’s will rev +400RPM’s at 80mph, Turbo, Wastegate, BOV, water to air intercooler, intercooler pump, different cooling Fan, Engine management, Transmission controller, Gauges, wideband, and supported materials for upgrades: Hose, fittings, wire, piping, etc…
Build as is, or another in parallel.
ENGINE:
Send the block out to get bored .020 over but use DSSracing engine cradle to help support decisions. Ask for Jed. He’ll help you out.. Block align bored/honed & Cyls boded/honed with deck plates, and reciprocating assembly weighted & balanced with new forged/Steel internals, a prepped Shortblock will cost a few grand. Same parts locally at a good shop will cost half that, you do the assembly, give them the block, Heads, less time spent taking things apart & assembling will cost you less. Get a good “Build a 4.6l 2V motor” book. Ask questions.
If this seems too hot for you, we can cut it back a tad. Many options!
Best of luck!!
-John