1997 Mustang Engine Swap.. Am i hurting the new engine?

08GT500 said:

Hi,
Any specific reason you run 10-30 vs 5-20wt? I add a Mechanical oil pressure gauge on near every motor I’ve ever cared about. Simple, they never lie, provides clues to the motor’s inner health.
So, from the 2V 4.6 in your 97’ GT, you swapped in an 11’ CVPI 2V 4.6..
Curious..Did your 97’s 4.6l have the PI swap done?
Better Cams/Heads/Intake. (90% Intake). This is a combo from Ford made specific to boost the 96’-97’ GT’s HP/Tq output. You buy the parts & install (or have another install).
No Computer Tuning required.
If the previous owner did the Factory PI swap, the 97’ would’ve jumped from 215HP to around 260HP, CR would be higher (10.5:1 with the 96’-97’s Pistons) adding a few more HP, but you needed to run 91 Octane.
The 2011 4.6l CVPI rates @250HP.
Most 96’-97’ Owners did this swap.
Any questions, feel free to ask. I’d posted a link for more on the 4.6’s down below.
So, Driving aggressively is not going to hurt your healthy 4.6l providing you stay within the limits of the motor, and solidly maintain it.
4.6’s are a very Sound setup, internally balanced, near square Bore/Stroke (90.2mm, 90mm).
Valve seals were an issue in the earlier motors Heads (like your 2V 97’). This was addressed in the PI 2V Heads, later Heads, or by installing good Viton Seals.
4.6l Modular motors used a few blocks over their 91’-2011’ timeline. Romeo, Windsor, Tekskid, WAP, & if you ever want to swap modular parts, This can get quite confusing..
Lots of archived info on this subject on Stangnet.
Yes. Were (internal) 4.6l engine changes between 1997-2011. More due to the 97’ being a Romeo motor, the 11’ Mustang GT became a completely different platform. Earlier (to 2004) changes were mostly different in physical size/setup, not HP gains.
Mustang GT’s began running 3 Valve Heads 2005+.w/ Variable Valve Timing.
If you’re asking if the Mustang’s motors are different than the CVPI motors, same year vs.year- they’re (internally) much the same stout platform.
But Mustangs GT Motors evolved so much further, externally..
As you mentioned, several top end changes did occur, such as Heads, intake manifolds, Cams, TB’s, exhaust Manifolds & systems, air boxes, tuning, DBW, etc. 2005 hit, then GT’s really became different. 2011 hit, and the 5.0l displacement was back...150HP over the 4.6l 2011 CVPI’s.
Good info on the 4.6l Modular Motors to feed some of your curiosity....

Ford Modular engine - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Good luck with it, the 4.6’s have been at 400K and still run strong. Maintain it.
Best!
-John

Click to expand...

08GT500 said:

Hi,
No problem. Still have your 97’ motor? If so, save it.
Increasing oil Viscosity isn’t one that you should follow unless you know for certain the oil pressure is running lower than required as result of worn bearings. Don’t just follow someone else’s hypothesis, prove it to yourself.
I’d doubt Rod/Main bearings would have any discernible wear with 100K on a 2011 Police Interceptor 4.6l. especially if from an ex Police Car, they’re generally very well maintained..
Thickening your oil that little isn’t directly harmful, but certain passages are designed to work best with thinner oil, clearances between bearings & components are engineered for a target viscosity, and viscosity adds more load to the oil pump that needs not be there. Crank has no Windage tray to displace it, slowing you down.
Relatively easy to determine your bearings health externally.
Synthetic lubricants have really evolved since years back to protect against such wear, nearly a 90% improvement over conventional oil. Dumping in higher viscosity's more a last resort to get you buy.
There’s many street friendly bolt-ons that’ll really wake that motor up considerably, 50HP+ with no tuning. Post if interested in ones that are the best bang for the buck.
Drive a lot over highways, or city?
Best!
-John

Click to expand...

08GT500 said:

Hi,
Haven’t forgotten about you, I’ll have the mods info in the next day for you. Wondering interested in centrifugal super chargers- where everything on the motor stays at it is, it bolts up like the alternator, run by the serpentine belt, can yield a 150hp gain with no sacrifices in drivability, and quite safe for the motor..?
Turbo?
Roots type blower/Supercharger?
Or, only bolt-ons that’ll keep in normally aspirated?
What is your budget?
Is your travel expenses (fuel) paid for by work, or is your traveling all out of your pocket? Mentioned you drive a lot of miles.
Ok, Thanks!
Best!
John

Click to expand...

08GT500 said:

Hi,
You’re going to need to decide on FI or NA here sooner or later. You can leave the motor mostly as is and get great power out of it with NA. But it gets expensive- fast
For instance. The best NA Cams are usually the worst FI Cams. You could add some-goodLT Headers and a a Catted H pipe. MAF, TB, leave the Cams and Heads alone and get gain150HP out of it, great street mannerisms, and great tuning it’ll even gain some MPG.

Here a good read on this. I’d built a Turboe’d 97’ yrs ago, and it ran 11’a in street tires, was a DD. Very similar setup. I’ll caution you parts are getting more expensive and cheaply made by every few months.Youre looking at around 4K$ here. For a Motor setup. And you can transfer parts to a fresh motor later, you can for both setups.
Best bet is to build another motor while you’re driving this, have it ready to drop in, and ready for tuning. and you’re done. You can then get longevity. And build the car equally.

Leaving it bone stock, (Reciprocating Assembly), is not seek over 425-450HP MAX, by simply by limiting boost & not over revving it.
Up to what your looking for?. Want a little more grunt now?. But not quite the mileage you have, add some 3.73’s for rear end gears. a few hundred in basic bolt on’s.(Gears. Car will rev about 400 RPM’s more @80 than ow) But it’ll really make it much more fun!) Let the Company pay for the extra fuel, Gears are the best bang for the buck.
it’ll wake it up until you build “Frankenstein” over a bit of time..This is done by building THE motor in parallel while you’re driving this.
Buy the parts. Do what you want when you can- do not wait..This will up the game with 500+HP, but suggest supporting Mod’s

592HP 4.6L 2V Motor For $2,298 - Hot Rod Magazine

We take a junkyard 4.6l 2v ford motor and with a eBay we build a 592hp monster for $2,298. Only at www.hotrod.com, the official website for Hot Rod Magazine.

www.hotrod.com

Then, there’s tan affordable FI swap. 4,000$, and a few extras. You can seek out parts looking through boneyards & want ads. Still they must be torn apart by a reputable automotive machine shop to verify they work right.
This is in a matched kit Just be sure with BOTH, you build the car equally.
Don’t want all this power you can’t plant, worse. Not stop, or isn’t predictable, Trans and tear and others built so you’re ready for it.
No areas here to cut corners, want it to run & drive and be reasonable for the street, and with octane available. -let the Company pay for the fuel!!
Many options with tuning, Dynotune, SCT, I’d look at a MEGASQUIRT 2. Easy to learn, and with each added component, you tweak your tune. Run a low CRatio, and you’re good as gold.
NA via TrickFlow.. one of many. This is around 380HP/380Ft/Lbs, and with si
E good bolt’s, most other Pony’s won’t know what hit them. There are several sites that sell these. I’d recommend looking around for prices. Then your Tuning options.
You can spend another 800$ and Tune it yourself with a MS2 CPU, goes in place if your stock EEC, and as you add more parts. You modify the tune for safe yet maximum gains.
It’s a learning process. But much easier than us cracking the codes in the old OBD-1 codesall those years ago. It’s In plain English.
The below NA setup, for instance- the TrickFlow top end/Cams, you’re looking at 4,800–5K$ here & a Dynotune w/Bolt-in’s.
So if you’re looking plug & play, I’d be looking at the FI setup, just my opinion. Built on a strong motor, you can squeeze every ounce out of it.

Trick Flow Twisted Wedge Top-End Engine Kits for Ford 4.6L 2V

Looking for the best heads for your 4.6L 2 valve build? Trick Flow Specialties has you covered! Kit includes cylinder heads, cylinder head gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, exhaust gaskets, head bolts, camshafts, timing chains, followers and lash adjusters and a valve spring compressor tool...

adtr.net

CHEAPLY made by making a plan.

Think, Research, LEARN! Don’t re-invent the wheel. Find your realistic goals. Buy the parts. Do what you want when you can- do not wait.. trust me!

MORE SPEED, less weight, MORE MONEY!
10sec 2V 4.6l Reliable 4.6l 97’ GT Build

First off it took two motors, a transmission, expensive fuel system, and an idiot to make my mind up to build my own builds.
Carefully plan the build for the BADARSE daily driver 97’ GT . I was trying to decide S/C or go Turbo. I started researching a found the best way to build is four basic steps.

1. Set a Goal for the car
Your goal: I wanted an all round good Daily Drive and track car that could run 11’s in the 120mph area in the 1320’s
2. Set a budget(3K$$...Math..like square Root’s, maybe...CUBES?
Budget from setups with separately purchased components can cost 12k+ (just bear with me).
3. Make a list of pros and cons
for options for the build, ice cold A/C, etc..
4. Don’t listen to the cookie cutter builders
With your goal research, understand the N/A and the two FI options
Supercharger or Turbo. The S/C path would have been easier but limited to a set power unless I spent extra for different tunes, pulleys, and I know from the S/C setups the maintenance is nonstop with a Daily Driver.
The Turbo path, simple to add power it was only a turn of a knob or button away. The maintenance was that of a factory car.
When researching, seek others that have similar setups. They’ll be happy to show you their cars/trucks, as most all are proud..
Take a ride I a few S/C mustangs and then in a Turbo Mustang. From that one ride the decision just MAY be made. TURBO!
Price lines up better, but see what suits you.

Another NA setup, parts selected that work well.
Scope::

Price:
97’ Mustang GT- 3,800lbs, 4.6l 2V iron block, D.S.S P&P pi heads , Comp 270Cams, T-45 or TR 6060 transmission, Factory 8.8 Rear-end, 26 Spline

NEED:
Rebuild short block, Build Transmission, Clutch, Fuel system, Rear-end, Gears(3.73’s will rev +400RPM’s at 80mph, Turbo, Wastegate, BOV, water to air intercooler, intercooler pump, different cooling Fan, Engine management, Transmission controller, Gauges, wideband, and supported materials for upgrades: Hose, fittings, wire, piping, etc…

Build as is, or another in parallel.
ENGINE:
Send the block out to get bored .020 over but use DSSracing engine cradle to help support decisions. Ask for Jed. He’ll help you out.. Block align bored/honed & Cyls boded/honed with deck plates, and reciprocating assembly weighted & balanced with new forged/Steel internals, a prepped Shortblock will cost a few grand. Same parts locally at a good shop will cost half that, you do the assembly, give them the block, Heads, less time spent taking things apart & assembling will cost you less. Get a good “Build a 4.6l 2V motor” book. Ask questions.
If this seems too hot for you, we can cut it back a tad. Many options!
Best of luck!!
-John

Click to expand...