Hi all,
I'm new and I hope I'm in the correct location, if not I apologize now. Please point me in the correct direction if I'm not.
1st off let me give yall a little back ground on the issue.
I did a swap between two mustangs, one being a 99 GT 4.6 5 speed with a salvage title. The second a 2000 base 3.8 automatic.
I decided to do the swap because (I thought) the 2000 would be worth more with the v8 swap than the v6. I also thought the 99 with the salvage title I would be limited to what I could get for it due to the salvage title. With that said I did the 99 swap first by swapping out the v8 for the v6 automatic. I swapped the drive train, cluster, rear end, interior, pedals, wiring and anything else I could think of the v8 might need. Everything went well, and now I have moved on to the 2000 swap. I rebuilt the v8 ( bored .05) had head work done new timing component's, new stage 3 cams, new aluminum intake, throttle body and plenum, new CAI, spark plugs, COP (ebay) new egr tube (mine was split), BBK long tubes and x pipe. That's all I can think of now, but there's more. I have never heard the engine run due to the engine needed to be rebuilt at purchase. I hope you have an idea of what I have done to this point?
I got everything together (what a headache on the cams, YES, you need to fly cut the pistons to run stage 3 cams "IF" you want to run a described center line) and tried to start the engine. At first I was having a theft light flashing, after doing some research on Stangnet I found a post that someone stated if you replace the cluster you have to get it calibrated, That person was correct!!! THANKS!!! I replaced the cluster with the original and the theft flashing theft light disappeared. Now I tried to start the engine again with no luck The engine turns over but wont start, it acts like it wants to but never does. This may have nothing to do with this, but I remembered in trying to trace the theft light I checked the ccrm and on pin #21 on the plug it showed no power, (should all time power be going in or coming out of the plug?) I tried to check with the plug plugged into the ccrm and I don't think my probe ( light) would go deep enough. I have checked other items trying to trace the theft light. I checked the injector plugs with a noid, they light the noid good, I used the same noid to check the cop plugs and they barely flicker the light, I checked the voltage and It checked between 6 to 8 volts. I could only get voltage from one side (don't know if voltage should be on both sides?). This is where I am now, any HELP would be GREATLY appreciated!! I am able to check this post during my breaks at work during the hours of 8-5 Eastern time. So if you ask a question and I don't reply right away this is why.
Again I appreciate any help!!!
Rob
I'm new and I hope I'm in the correct location, if not I apologize now. Please point me in the correct direction if I'm not.
1st off let me give yall a little back ground on the issue.
I did a swap between two mustangs, one being a 99 GT 4.6 5 speed with a salvage title. The second a 2000 base 3.8 automatic.
I decided to do the swap because (I thought) the 2000 would be worth more with the v8 swap than the v6. I also thought the 99 with the salvage title I would be limited to what I could get for it due to the salvage title. With that said I did the 99 swap first by swapping out the v8 for the v6 automatic. I swapped the drive train, cluster, rear end, interior, pedals, wiring and anything else I could think of the v8 might need. Everything went well, and now I have moved on to the 2000 swap. I rebuilt the v8 ( bored .05) had head work done new timing component's, new stage 3 cams, new aluminum intake, throttle body and plenum, new CAI, spark plugs, COP (ebay) new egr tube (mine was split), BBK long tubes and x pipe. That's all I can think of now, but there's more. I have never heard the engine run due to the engine needed to be rebuilt at purchase. I hope you have an idea of what I have done to this point?
I got everything together (what a headache on the cams, YES, you need to fly cut the pistons to run stage 3 cams "IF" you want to run a described center line) and tried to start the engine. At first I was having a theft light flashing, after doing some research on Stangnet I found a post that someone stated if you replace the cluster you have to get it calibrated, That person was correct!!! THANKS!!! I replaced the cluster with the original and the theft flashing theft light disappeared. Now I tried to start the engine again with no luck The engine turns over but wont start, it acts like it wants to but never does. This may have nothing to do with this, but I remembered in trying to trace the theft light I checked the ccrm and on pin #21 on the plug it showed no power, (should all time power be going in or coming out of the plug?) I tried to check with the plug plugged into the ccrm and I don't think my probe ( light) would go deep enough. I have checked other items trying to trace the theft light. I checked the injector plugs with a noid, they light the noid good, I used the same noid to check the cop plugs and they barely flicker the light, I checked the voltage and It checked between 6 to 8 volts. I could only get voltage from one side (don't know if voltage should be on both sides?). This is where I am now, any HELP would be GREATLY appreciated!! I am able to check this post during my breaks at work during the hours of 8-5 Eastern time. So if you ask a question and I don't reply right away this is why.
Again I appreciate any help!!!
Rob
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