My opinion if you're using boost...The modular blocks and cranks are very strong and durable. You'll have to upgrade your fuel lines and probably convert to a return style system before you make enough power to break those. The weak link is the rods and pistons. Depending on the compression ratio, the timing, and whether or not you're using some kind of aftercooler or intercooler or boost cooler or meth injection, I'd say you're at the limit with 12lbs and 400-450 hp at the wheels. Anything more and you're definitely pushing the limit. Any 4340 H-beam rod should be able to handle around 750 hp at the wheels and maybe 900 at its max. Billet rods are all but unbreakable. Steel pistons can handle 15 lbs of boost all day without breaking a sweat. I'd say they can max out around 20-25, maybe more. My advice is to keep the compression low to moderate (like 8.5:1 - 9.5:1), watch that timing, keep high octane gas (91-93) in the car, keep the AFR in the appropriate range, and get a cooler. Make sure you have a safe everyday tune for the car...
If you're gonna keep it N/A then the stock internals can handle a 10.5:1 - 11.5:1 compression ratio. Rods and pistons from a 4 valve engine will get you there if you wanna go the economical route. If you choose to buy aftermarket rods and pistons then you might as well get the 4340 I-Beam rods and some forged steel pistons. At that CR you will need to upgrade your injectors and keep 91-93 octane gas in the car and keep the timing down a bit. You will also need to upgrade your springs IF you keep the stock heads and you decide to get aftermarket cams. Ported heads usually come with upgraded springs but you have to keep in mind that the combustion chamber may be bigger which will lower your compression. However the head flow will more than make up for that...If you go this route and do the heads, cams, intake, and some headers, you will have a straight up beast...
Sorry for the long post...