2000 GT how much power?

I believe with the stock block it can handle up to 400-450hp... Although Im not shure about the bottom end supporting that much with all that mileage..
Also if you plan on making that much hp I would invest in some supsension mods like LCA's and UCA's..
Good luck with the build!

03_TrueBlue_GT said:

I believe with the stock block it can handle up to 400-450hp... Although Im not shure about the bottom end supporting that much with all that mileage..
Also if you plan on making that much hp I would invest in some supsension mods like LCA's and UCA's..
Good luck with the build!

Click to expand...

The cast iron engine block can handle way more than 450 HPs. Unless you are talking about the stock internals, I think those are good for about 350 hp maybe more.
O.P. you can do a complete engine tear down w/sick upgrades for under 10 grand. But if I was looking for some sturdy pistons I would see if I could find some titanium heads on some pistons like the Corvettes.

trombonedemon said:

O.P. you can do a complete engine tear down w/sick upgrades for under 10 grand. But if I was looking for some sturdy pistons I would see if I could find some titanium heads on some pistons like the Corvettes.

Click to expand...

Huh?

Do you mean titanium rods?

If so, why? A set of decent forged pistons and Manley H-beam rods can be used with the stock cast crank (if the RPM is kept sane) to produce a very reliable engine to ungodly power levels with un-natural induction. For a bit more, a steel crank could be used for additional overhead in terms of safety margin, depending on power output and RPM.

The OPer needs to more clearly define his goals, in terms of desired HP/torque, car usage (daily driver, street/strip, strip only, road course etc), normally aspirated or forced induction (and if so, what: turbo, S/C, nitrous?) and so on. These terms will help define the engine, clutch/trans, axle, suspension and other parameters and will help show if it can be done within that $10K budget.

Yup, titanium, maybe I should be more specific, titanium coated. You can find titanium valves also. Although I don't know if the Corvette piston heads are tianium coated, there rods are titinaium like you said.
http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_technology/advanced_engine_materials.htm


There was interesting reading though.
From what I understang titanium is brittle when heated. Forged might be the way to go though. I'm just amazed how strong and light that metal is.

Just an FYI. You can see my mods below. I'm on the stock block stock internals with about 60k. Upped the boost about 2k ago to around 15lbs if memory serves. Car makes a little over 450hp at the rear wheels. My guy, who I trust implicitly would not do the last round of mods without adding meth and told me I'd be just fine with it on there. If you want to do a higher hp build even if it's less than 450hp a meth system is a nice safety blanket if you go FI. Maybe overkill if your not making too much power but a little insurance that only costs $350 never hurts

15#s on a stock shortblock is a timebomb. For instance, look at a stock 4.6L hypereutectic piston:

View attachment 212161

The material is very brittle and check out how skinny the material above the top ring is. Think about the sliver of material connecting that to the rest of the piston... One instance of detonation at high cylinder pressures is all it takes to snap that off. For reference, check out the top ring land of a forged 4.6L piston:

View attachment 212162

Then there's the factory powdered-metal connecting rod with it's very skinny beam section:

View attachment 212163

Compare that to a Manley rod from a 03-04 Termi:



Even with meth, pulled timing and fat fuel the fuse is lit at that sort of power on a stock shortblock 2V. There's just no margin for anything to go wrong. Glad it's worked so far for you but I wouldn't recommend this to anyone else

hotstang_46 said:

Just an FYI. You can see my mods below. I'm on the stock block stock internals with about 60k. Upped the boost about 2k ago to around 15lbs if memory serves. Car makes a little over 450hp at the rear wheels. My guy, who I trust implicitly would not do the last round of mods without adding meth and told me I'd be just fine with it on there. If you want to do a higher hp build even if it's less than 450hp a meth system is a nice safety blanket if you go FI. Maybe overkill if your not making too much power but a little insurance that only costs $350 never hurts

Click to expand...

uhhhh, do you want to break the engine so that you can put new rods and pistons in? There is a very high chance that rods will break and fly through your engine block!!!!

trombonedemon said:

uhhhh, do you want to break the engine so that you can put new rods and pistons in? There is a very high chance that rods will break and fly through your engine block!!!!

Click to expand...

ummmm, ya.....I wouldn't mind if it goes kaboom, I'd really like a whole new set up, my vette makes this car feel positively lame and I don't like it, however the mrs. doesn't understand this I do see 900+rwhp in my future with some wild build ......However, I'm not going to do it intentionally by abusing my car or anything but if it happens it happens. My tuner seems to think it will live for a while as he's done other cars like mine, that have put on way more than 2k and been fine. But we'll see...... I know there's a few others in my range that have lived as well... maybe they'll chime in

and correction, boost on this dyno read about 12.5, which is still a healthy amount I suppose

Long as you got another vehicle, sweet.

I think it'll be fine as long as it's a very safe tune. I don't have time to explain in detail, but the largest forces on the rods are tensile forces when the piston reaches TDC on the exhaust stroke. The force of combustion pushing down on the piston will not break the rod unless there is detonation pounding the everloving **** out of it. That's why hotmustang331 was able to make 550 rwhp for like 3 years without it going kaboom.

Keep the tune safe and detonation-free, and it should live a long, happy life.

My opinion if you're using boost...The modular blocks and cranks are very strong and durable. You'll have to upgrade your fuel lines and probably convert to a return style system before you make enough power to break those. The weak link is the rods and pistons. Depending on the compression ratio, the timing, and whether or not you're using some kind of aftercooler or intercooler or boost cooler or meth injection, I'd say you're at the limit with 12lbs and 400-450 hp at the wheels. Anything more and you're definitely pushing the limit. Any 4340 H-beam rod should be able to handle around 750 hp at the wheels and maybe 900 at its max. Billet rods are all but unbreakable. Steel pistons can handle 15 lbs of boost all day without breaking a sweat. I'd say they can max out around 20-25, maybe more. My advice is to keep the compression low to moderate (like 8.5:1 - 9.5:1), watch that timing, keep high octane gas (91-93) in the car, keep the AFR in the appropriate range, and get a cooler. Make sure you have a safe everyday tune for the car...

If you're gonna keep it N/A then the stock internals can handle a 10.5:1 - 11.5:1 compression ratio. Rods and pistons from a 4 valve engine will get you there if you wanna go the economical route. If you choose to buy aftermarket rods and pistons then you might as well get the 4340 I-Beam rods and some forged steel pistons. At that CR you will need to upgrade your injectors and keep 91-93 octane gas in the car and keep the timing down a bit. You will also need to upgrade your springs IF you keep the stock heads and you decide to get aftermarket cams. Ported heads usually come with upgraded springs but you have to keep in mind that the combustion chamber may be bigger which will lower your compression. However the head flow will more than make up for that...If you go this route and do the heads, cams, intake, and some headers, you will have a straight up beast...

Sorry for the long post...

Three50won said:

...750 hp at the wheels and maybe 900 at its max. Billet rods are all but unbreakable. Steel pistons can handle 15 lbs of boost all day without breaking a sweat. I'd say they can max out around 20-25, maybe more. My advice ...

Click to expand...

You mean forged aluminum, right?

trinity_gt said:

You mean forged aluminum, right?

Click to expand...

haha, how embarrassing...!!