Engine 2000 Saleen Series I I ; Mil Status Off, Running Rich, Idle High

s2s281sc

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Jan 30, 2016
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I've recently purchased a 2000 saleen series ii mustang that is:
  • Running rich
  • Idling at high rpms (1,500)
  • Sputters at lower rpm band
When I plug in my obd2 I'm getting "Malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) status Off", so I can not check for any error code, which is frustrating or a at least it seems that way.

Is there away to turn the MIL back on?

I've done the following
  • cleaned MAF (with MAF cleaner)
  • cleaned IAC (with carb cleaner)
  • cleaned EGR (with carb cleaner)
  • cleaned Intake filter (with K&N filter cleaner)
  • Replaced belt, previous belt was in bad shape
  • Ordered a new TPS and should be replacing that soon, hopefully this solves the high idle.
  • Identified that the last 3 coils on the passenger side do not tighten all the way (1 is even missing a screw, I've ordered new screw set), because the thread on the supercharger intake might be stripped, which might be causing the sputtering.
The car also needs a new battery, the battery it had was probably old and car sat for awhile.

Things pending to do;
  • Get MIL back on (no idea how)
  • Re-thread Heli-Coil the threads on the supercharger intake manifold
  • Identify vacuum leaks (I suspect that there might be some)
  • Identify exhaust leaks
  • Check spark plugs
  • Get O2's checked, or replaced
With all this said, does anyone know what I may need to check or do to get the MIL status set to on? I feel like I'm shooting in the dark here. I suspect that the car has MIL eliminators, but does this product kill all codes or just the light?

IMG_2940.PNG
 
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The MIL eliminators just fool the computer into thinking there are cats. Did you look under the car to see if they are installed? My guess is there is a tune on the car and they turned off the light? Didn't know that could be down but anything is possible. Go to a auto parts store and see if they can get a reading from the OBD.

Could be a bad coil or two causing the rough operation. Hard to say if you can't get a code.
 
@COramprat thanks for your reply. I did take a quick look under, at one point but didn't know about MIL eliminators at that time, should've taken a picture. I'll take it to auto parts store and see what's up.

@COramprat , or anyone does misfire sounds like the car has cams or the exhaust is choppy?
 
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Just a quick update

Things done;
  • Replace the battery
    • Result: The car now starts :p
  • Replaced the TPS (throttle position sensor)
    • Result: This did not seem to have any effect on the high rpm.
Things pending to do;
  • Get MIL back on (no idea how)
    • Found a shop with a Ford computer that seems confident to get this fixed.
  • Re-thread Heli-Coil the threads on the supercharger intake manifold
  • Identify vacuum leaks (I suspect that there might be some)
  • Identify exhaust leaks
  • Check spark plugs
  • Get O2's checked, or replaced
  • Get a new MAF (mass air flow) sensor
 
When I plug in my obd2 I'm getting "Malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) status Off", so I can not check for any error code, which is frustrating or a at least it seems that way.

Is there away to turn the MIL back on?
I don't think that you understand what the ODB2 reader is trying to tell you. The message does not mean that the MIL light is disabled. The message means that as far as the PCM is concerned, there are no "conditions" that warrant setting a MIL status.

Let me ask you this. When you turn the key on but do NOT crank, does the Check engine dash light come on during the lamp test? If so, the MIL light is working.

Seems to me that you need to focus on WHY the motor is running soooooo rich and why the idle is so high.

Note, exhaust leaks before the O2 sensor will make the PCM "think" the motor is running lean when it's not. This will cause the PCM to add fuel thus creating a rich condition.

In the large majority of cases, a high idle is caused by a vacuum leak.

What happens when the idle control valve (IAC) is disconnected? Does the idle drop or the motor die outright?

What size fuel injectors are being used and do the fuel injectors match the PCM tune?

Is the fuel pressure sensor intake vacuum reference line connected and leak free? Is there any raw gas in the line?

What does the PCM "think" the fuel pressure is? What is the actual fuel pressure as measured by an external gauge?
 
@wmburns, thank you for taking the time to offer me a helping hand, greatly appreciate it.

What size fuel injectors are being used and do the fuel injectors match the PCM tune?

A: I have no idea if the PCM is tuned or what size injectors are running. When I purchased the car I was told it just needed a new MAF, they didn't know much about the car.

Is the fuel pressure sensor intake vacuum reference line connected and leak free? Is there any raw gas in the line?

A: I haven't noticed any raw gas around the lines, I checked since I use to have a 240sx with leaky injectors, but I have not pulled the injectors to check for cracks.

In the large majority of cases, a high idle is caused by a vacuum leak.

A: I suspect there are vacuum leak(s), unfortunately for me my series ii came with the plastic intake elbow, but I've yet to identify where the leak might be coming from. I purchased a fog machine to help identify leaks but I've yet to set it up and test it.

Let me ask you this. When you turn the key on but do NOT crank, does the Check engine dash light come on during the lamp test? If so, the MIL light is working.

A: I want to say yes but I'll have to double check, tomorrow morning.

Note, exhaust leaks before the O2 sensor will make the PCM "think" the motor is running lean when it's not. This will cause the PCM to add fuel thus creating a rich condition.

A: I also suspect exhaust leaks, not sure where. I might have to take it to a shop, or do you think I can also try with the fog machine?

What does the PCM "think" the fuel pressure is? What is the actual fuel pressure as measured by an external gauge?

A: The odb2 software I'm using outputs a report here is my $mode 01 report, it seems right, but I could be wrong.

Screen Shot 2016-03-08 at 8.53.17 PM.png
 
RPM's show zero. It sure would have been nice to have taken the report while the motor was running......................

For some reason the app, makes strongly recommends to turn the engine off to do it's report. I'll give it a another run with the engine on.

Here is a video with the IAC unplugged, and showing the 3 coil packs that are loose;

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEGQliF-5Wc


Here is a video with the MAF unplugged;

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giANIge6fxE
 
I didn't hear the RPM's change at all when the IAC was disconnected. That means that ALL of the idle air keeping the motor running is coming from somewhere else.

The IAC works by ADDING bypass air. So if the motor is already getting all the air that it needs, then there isn't any adjustment range left for the IAC to actually control the idle.
 
@wmburns

This is the warning I get from the application when running a report;
IMG_3298.PNG

Reports while running


Here is Mode $01 with the car running (after a 12 to 15 min drive to work);
Screen Shot 2016-03-10 at 6.16.40 PM.png

Mode $02
Screen Shot 2016-03-10 at 6.19.23 PM.png

Mode $06 (also seems to suggest my cylinder 9 and 10 are misfiring)
Screen Shot 2016-03-10 at 6.20.14 PM.png


Driving the car here is a graph of speed and the maf reading (just stays flat);
IMG_3296.PNG

Just having the car on, not moving it turned off and this is what dash displayed;
IMG_3299.JPG
 
I didn't hear the RPM's change at all when the IAC was disconnected. That means that ALL of the idle air keeping the motor running is coming from somewhere else.

The IAC works by ADDING bypass air. So if the motor is already getting all the air that it needs, then there isn't any adjustment range left for the IAC to actually control the idle.

Are you saying that their might be a giant leak ?
 
Houston. We have a problem.

Take a look at the graph of speed vs MAF flow. Don't you think it's strange that has the car is being driven that the MAF flow stays the same?

Fuel pressure is 54 PSI which is too high. However this could be from the other DTC codes.

Why is the battery charge light on while the motor is running? Today's cars will not run right without a strong battery and charging system.

Regarding the massive vacuum leak. Perhaps. Or someone adjusted the idle stop screw in an attempt to fix a high idle.
 
@wmburns

Take a look at the graph of speed vs MAF flow. Don't you think it's strange that has the car is being driven that the MAF flow stays the same?

Yea I always thought this was weird, and it seems kind of obvious, but this was my first new edge mustang and thought perhaps this is normal :(. I'm assuming the recommended fix here is to get a new MAF sensor.

Fuel pressure is 54 PSI which is too high. However this could be from the other DTC codes.

What other DTC codes? Just curious if I missed something obvious here. What are something you'd recommend I'd take a look at?

Why is the battery charge light on while the motor is running? Today's cars will not run right without a strong battery and charging system.

The motor was not running; sorry didn't clarify that. The car had turned off on me at that point, and has turned off on me while driving it; in 2 to 3 instances (supposedly my alternator is good) and perhaps twice while parked on idle, on this occasion I just finished the test on the engine and a couple of minutes after that the engine turned off.

Regarding the massive vacuum leak. Perhaps. Or someone adjusted the idle stop screw in an attempt to fix a high idle.

Do you think they did this to compensate for the damaged MAF? Should I replace the throttle or get the vacuum and screw looked at?
 
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Just a quick update #2

Things done;
  • Replace the battery
    • Result: The car now starts :p
  • Replaced the TPS (throttle position sensor)
    • Result: This did not seem to have any effect on the high rpm.
  • Get a new MAF (mass air flow) sensor
    • Result: Nothing has changed, the air flow reading is still flat.
Things pending to do;
  • Get MIL back on (no idea how)
    • Found a shop with a Ford computer that seems confident to get this fixed.
  • Re-thread Heli-Coil the threads on the supercharger intake manifold
  • Identify vacuum leaks (I suspect that there might be some)
  • Identify exhaust leaks
  • Check spark plugs
  • Get O2's checked, or replaced
I'm just going to take the car to a shop, and get it looked at.
 
Not sure why this is side, but this is what I got back from the shop. They recommend taking it to an electrical person.

Which reads;

Does not run well, boggs, 3 coils loose, mass air was replaced, old one in trunk

Note: AC screeching, engine shaking both upstream 0-2’s reading bad, tps voltage incorrect, cam & crank sensors aren’t correlating, wiring needs to be checked at PCM. We can’t check for misfire, without cam & crank reading.

IMG_3381.JPG
 
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Has someone replaced one or more wiring harness parts from a different model year? Or made "modifications'" to the wiring harness?

Seems to me like some very basic trouble shooting with a volt-ohm meter (VOM) and a set of wiring diagrams could do wonders for this problem.

If interested in getting a set of wiring diagrams for yourself I maybe able to help. PM if interested.
 
Has someone replaced one or more wiring harness parts from a different model year? Or made "modifications'" to the wiring harness?

Seems to me like some very basic trouble shooting with a volt-ohm meter (VOM) and a set of wiring diagrams could do wonders for this problem.

The car is a transplant or motor swap. It went from a v6 to a Saleen supercharged gt engine. I'd really appreciate that.