2005 GT 02 sensor stuck rich

horse sence

15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Wile Coyote's stunt double
Ok ,i am about to cut this thing into little ity bitty pieces !
I keep getting two codes
P2196
02 sensor stuck rich bank 1 sensor 1
P2198 bank 2 sensor 1
O2 sensor stuck rich .
I have checked for vacuum leaks and can not find one ,i have checked the exhaust for leaks and cant find one ,i even changed the exhaust system with another one i have and still the same two codes.
I have changed every sensor on the car and still the same two codes .
The motor is a 2007 i pulled from a wreck i bought ,it ran perfect up until i pulled it .
I am thinking it is somthing inside the car its self ,i have swapped the computer and key from the 05 with the one from the 07 and still the same problem .
Took it to ford ...ours is not the best around ,and they cant figure it out ,does anyone have any idea what the hell is going on ?
 
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It is disturbing that a Ford Dealer can not figure it out. They have (required to be a selling dealership) all of the equipment and diagnostic tools to perform a proper test of the system.
My guess is they are punting the concern down the road.

How much diag time did you agree to?
If a tech is only given 1 hr to figure something out, then after an hr they throw their hands up in the air and quit.
 
They had as much time as they needed ,they did a fuel pressure test and tested the injectors ,the 02 sensors showed they were switching back and forth good to stuck . I have replaced every sensor on the motor with no results ,i even changed the fuel pump with the 07s because i know it was good
 
Ok , i changed the purge valve ,didnt fix it but it now idles smooth . I think i can hear a hiss below the rocker just under the front of the driver side door ,i remember the plastic cover that covers all the lines to the rear of the car was smashed and the purge lines are under that ,i never took it off . Tomorrow i am going to put it up on the lift with it running and remove that cover ,as smashed as it is it just have made it to the lines going to the back of the car .
 
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It looks like we may have found the problem ,the driver in the computer will not connect to the upper 02 sensors ,the bad news ,the computer is discontinued ! Not one to be found anywhere . A local parts dealer is sending it out to a shop in Texas to be rebuilt ,it is way cheaper than a new one would have been but it will take a month to get it back ...if they can fix it !
 
It has been sitting here on new tires ,new paint ,new windshield as pretty as can be all this time and the only time i have got to drive it was to take this pic and taking it off the trailer to drop it off at Ford :cry:
20220227_135627.jpg
 
I have been working on this piece of crap for 5 months now ,the computer was said to be bad so i sent it out to be rebuilt . It comes in today ...finaly ,and i get it in and now no starter ! I hit the key ,i can hear the fuel pump and the cluster lights up but the starter will not spin ...i wasnt made for these computerised piles o crap ,going back to the oldies,no computers and as simple as looking under the hood to fond the problem!
 
Diagnosing problems on the newer cars is an artform in and of itself. I recommend you find someone who is very proficient at it and let them nail down where the problem is located and what needs to be done to fix it. I have seen many, many people just throw parts at what they think is the problem when it was just a deteriorated wire, connector etc. Find a mechanic that is good at using the scan tools who can live stream data and analyze it. The time you pay him to do this is well worth it. Talk to your local Mustang owners and see who they recommend. If you want to see what kind of person I am talking about then watch a few videos from this guy's YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/c/PineHollowAutoDiagnostics He is a master at diagnosing problems with scan tools.
 
The mechanics at Ford dealers aren't always very knowledgeable in using the scan tools properly. It is a skill set most mechanics haven't mastered. There is so much more that can be done with a capable scan tool than reading codes and some values. The real good mechanics with diagnostic experience use live data streaming of various sensors to get to the cause of a problem that is difficult to pinpoint. This includes wiring issues which can never be fixed by throwing in new parts. Find a good diagnostic guy and he should be able to find the problem with certainty.
 
I worked at two dealers with about 50 technicians
Only about 5 or 4 ever got their Masters cert
There was one dealer who trained up a master then made him the shop foreman and he did not work on cars wtf
I would love to take a look at it (it's the hard ones that make my job worth while after done fixing them)
You got the tools to check the injector pulse width? The Ford dealer does but damn straight its about 4 hours to do the tests
We used to see for some reason on some EEC4 and 5 vehicles, the injectors getting pulsed twice and running rich as hell
They were getting / sending two pip signals or some chit. Processors fixed them
Some expensive Fluke meters (DVOM) can read this. I gave mine away and have never used one for that purpose
Fluke DMM O2 Sensor is a YouTube video to watch on the subject
 
I have been working on this piece of crap for 5 months now ,the computer was said to be bad so i sent it out to be rebuilt . It comes in today ...finaly ,and i get it in and now no starter ! I hit the key ,i can hear the fuel pump and the cluster lights up but the starter will not spin ...i wasnt made for these computerised piles o crap ,going back to the oldies,no computers and as simple as looking under the hood to fond the problem!
Sounds like the Computer does not recognize the key. May have to get the key programed. This may be due to whoever "fixed" the computer.
 
At least it is not a GM product. I run into incomplete or just wrong diagnostic routines all the time from the GM service manual. Had a Siverado last week that had a Knock sensor code. Diagnostic routine had me check the voltage at the sensor, (had to remove the starter to access), it said that if I had over 2 volts at pin #2 with the key on to replace the ECM (computer), So I did and then programed the ECM to the vehicle. After all of that, same problem. Turns out, that of the 3 pages of diagnostic routines, at the bottom of the last page it said that if the voltage on pin #2 was between 2 and 4 volts to replace the knock sensor...
WTF is that step not BEFORE, or instead of, the step that says to replace ECM on page 1?
At least it was a warranty repair and GM gets to eat the part and diagnostic time instead of the customer.
I could list several more example of wrong or missing diagnostic steps in the service manual. It gets very frustrating to spend hours chasing wrong information. I asked the shop foreman how all of this stuff gets so messed up and he just shrugs and says, "you are asking the wrong guy, go ask GM". Thanks man, that helps...a lot.
 
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