If you can post a picture of the seats from underneath I’d be able to answer your questions. I only know about the 2016’s because that’s what I bought.Awesome man kinda skimmed through it but will read it over again. So a couple of questions. Are the ones I’m looking at the 2016s any different base wise than those 2013s? Can the power lumbar etc on these some how still be used or is the wiring for all that just off and won’t connect to ours? Instead of using our stock tracks can I use these tracks from lmr?
This is the pic of the drivers side which he sent me.If you can post a picture of the seats from underneath I’d be able to answer your questions. I only know about the 2016’s because that’s what I bought.
As for the seat tracks I understand they are direct replacements.
As for the power seat question, I’m gonna say yes because there is a continuous power wire under the seats. The seat only draws power when the switch is turned on (toggle switch). You’ll have to splice wires but yes it can work.
These are 2016s as well, just out of the eco boost mustangIf you can post a picture of the seats from underneath I’d be able to answer your questions. I only know about the 2016’s because that’s what I bought.
As for the seat tracks I understand they are direct replacements.
As for the power seat question, I’m gonna say yes because there is a continuous power wire under the seats. The seat only draws power when the switch is turned on (toggle switch). You’ll have to splice wires but yes it can work.
The most work is removing the seat tracks, heated and power features, etc. Once you get it all stripped down it doesn't take long to fab up a new base to mount your Fox tracks on to. Maybe a couple hours each seat, second seat goes faster than the first as is typical with most things.This is the pic of the drivers side which he sent me.
Wow you have the good seats. Mine are manuals so obviously they had less guts than these. If you look at my pics i shaved off (grinder, or sawzall) on the side of the seat tracks. Tuck away all the wiring while doing it without them getting cut. I used a grinder to cut it all off. Went pretty smooth on my end. There are two bars under the seat, one visible towards the front of the seat and another underneath the grey flap on the bottom of pic. I used 3/4” tubular metal welded from the back to the front of the seat BUT, when getting the tubing make sure it goes at least 2” past the front bar (if your tall, I’m 6’1”) so the seat can travel farther back. They have to be flat square tubing or else you’ll hit your head on the ceiling of the car from sitting so high. I learned this the hard way. I’ll take pictures of my car later and try and show as much as possible. I hope this helps.This is the pic of the drivers side which he sent me.
Awesome, well I don’t have them yet. He wanted 600 and now 540. Might throw 450 cash in hand and see if he will take it. Where are you guys finding this metal tubing etc to weld. I don’t weld so I’d have to have someone do it for me. My original seat track was busted and I got it welded but I think I’d rather buy those seat tracks from lmr I posted earlier and use those. I’m just wondering how if I could still use the if any some of the function of the seat electrical wise. Not sure what the difference is between our stock tracks and those new tracks from lmr. Looks like @FoxMustangLvr went ahead and gutted everything out. But these seats look great in our cars from what you posted and his as well.Wow you have the good seats. Mine are manuals so obviously they had less guts than these. If you look at my pics i shaved off (grinder, or sawzall) on the side of the seat tracks. Tuck away all the wiring while doing it without them getting cut. I used a grinder to cut it all off. Went pretty smooth on my end. There are two bars under the seat, one visible towards the front of the seat and another underneath the grey flap on the bottom of pic. I used 3/4” tubular metal welded from the back to the front of the seat BUT, when getting the tubing make sure it goes at least 2” past the front bar (if your tall, I’m 6’1”) so the seat can travel farther back. They have to be flat square tubing or else you’ll hit your head on the ceiling of the car from sitting so high. I learned this the hard way. I’ll take pictures of my car later and try and show as much as possible. I hope this helps.
I did everything the same except the bar you have going from left to right. I used the existing bar you seem to have removed. But great work nonetheless.Assembly using 3/4" square tube with 1/8" wall.
This is my seat in the car now. Both went in and don’t forget the new metal boxed frame has to have at least 14” square all around for the stock or aftermarket seat tracks to sit on.I did everything the same except the bar you have going from left to right. I used the existing bar you seem to have removed. But great work nonetheless.
The electrical shouldn’t be an issue as long as all you want to work is the adjustments to work. Again if you go under the seat you’ll see a harness there. Use a volt meter to test for a hot lead and then for the ground. I’ve used schematics to figure this out the right way on my other 89Gt with cobra full power seats and it worked for me. As for the seat tracks, $300 bucks vs $40-$60 on stock seat tracks is a no brainer. I rather use $300 bucks elsewhere like a cam or roller rockers etc. etc. If they should break again then hey do what ya gotta do. Stock seat tracks are all over eBay or Craigslist.Awesome, well I don’t have them yet. He wanted 600 and now 540. Might throw 450 cash in hand and see if he will take it. Where are you guys finding this metal tubing etc to weld. I don’t weld so I’d have to have someone do it for me. My original seat track was busted and I got it welded but I think I’d rather buy those seat tracks from lmr I posted earlier and use those. I’m just wondering how if I could still use the if any some of the function of the seat electrical wise. Not sure what the difference is between our stock tracks and those new tracks from lmr. Looks like @FoxMustangLvr went ahead and gutted everything out. But these seats look great in our cars from what you posted and his as well.
Ah yes guess I didn’t realize the cost lol thought they were 150 for the set for some reason. I’d like to get these seas for as cheap as I can, he has had them up for awhile now. 450 sounds like a good deal to me, like I said he now wants 540 not sure if the 90 bucks is do or die for him but cash in hand usually solves that problem when you want to move stuff.The electrical shouldn’t be an issue as long as all you want to work is the adjustments to work. Again if you go under the seat you’ll see a harness there. Use a volt meter to test for a hot lead and then for the ground. I’ve used schematics to figure this out the right way on my other 89Gt with cobra full power seats and it worked for me. As for the seat tracks, $300 bucks vs $40-$60 on stock seat tracks is a no brainer. I rather use $300 bucks elsewhere like a cam or roller rockers etc. etc. If they should break again then hey do what ya gotta do. Stock seat tracks are all over eBay or Craigslist.
I got lucky in my deal. $200!!! He tried to go up to $300 then I backed out, then he caved in for $200 again I swooped them up. I didn’t care what was gonna he needed to put them in, all I know is that they where gonna go in. Good luck with the purchase and if I can help any further let me know.Ah yes guess I didn’t realize the cost lol thought they were 150 for the set for some reason. I’d like to get these seas for as cheap as I can, he has had them up for awhile now. 450 sounds like a good deal to me, like I said he now wants 540 not sure if the 90 bucks is do or die for him but cash in hand usually solves that problem when you want to move stuff.
Appreciate it man, I’ll let you know if I pull the trigger or stick with the Corbeau’s. If I do get these 2016s then I’ll be bothering you and @FoxMustangLvr quite a bit lol.I got lucky in my deal. $200!!! He tried to go up to $300 then I backed out, then he caved in for $200 again I swooped them up. I didn’t care what was gonna he needed to put them in, all I know is that they where gonna go in. Good luck with the purchase and if I can help any further let me know.
I will gladly help however I can. As to the debate between the 2016 seats and the Corbeau's, I would put my money on factory Ford seats being better quality and more durable for years to come and you're putting Ford seats in your Ford which is a great thing. Just my opinion. Also people talk about aftermarket seats being for small waist people, unlike the factory Ford seats which are a little more roomy so take that in to account as well.Appreciate it man, I’ll let you know if I pull the trigger or stick with the Corbeau’s. If I do get these 2016s then I’ll be bothering you and @FoxMustangLvr quite a bit lol.
yeah I actually was over at the shop and got to sit in a 2016 gt possibly 2017, but it had the same seats I posted just cloth instead of leather. They felt pretty darn comfy and I’m just gonna offer the guy 400 and see if he takes it. I like the look of these and it will be rare to see them in our cars, seeing yours made me want to go for it, deconstructing the track shouldn’t be to bad I hope. Guess I just have to wait and see if the deal goes through first.I will gladly help however I can. As to the debate between the 2016 seats and the Corbeau's, I would put my money on factory Ford seats being better quality and more durable for years to come and you're putting Ford seats in your Ford which is a great thing. Just my opinion. Also people talk about aftermarket seats being for small waist people, unlike the factory Ford seats which are a little more roomy so take that in to account as well.
My question is where did you find the square tubing at?I will gladly help however I can. As to the debate between the 2016 seats and the Corbeau's, I would put my money on factory Ford seats being better quality and more durable for years to come and you're putting Ford seats in your Ford which is a great thing. Just my opinion. Also people talk about aftermarket seats being for small waist people, unlike the factory Ford seats which are a little more roomy so take that in to account as well.
You can get it at most hardware stores: Home Depot, Lowe's, Tractor Supply, etc.My question is where did you find the square tubing at?
My source wouldn't help you. I ordered my steel through my work from a steel supplier. I could've used their counter sales service but they require a minimum order of $50 which is stupid. I ordered a 20' stick for about $15, I used less than 10'.My question is where did you find the square tubing at?
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