281 HP & Stuck -- Suggestions please ??

[mto502]

I'm not there... 293rwhp for me, I'm not complaining because I love smoking guys that have eclipsed that magical 300rwhp mark!!! Its not about the peak, lets not forget that.

Are you running with cats and smog pump ? You have a custom cam correct ? My TFS stage 1 cam isn't doing it. I'm also running high flow cats and smog pump.


EDIT : nevermind I just read your sig. You're also running a much taller gear. I'm running with 3.55's If I removed my cats I'd be around 295 I believe. I'm really starting to think that a custom cam will put me over 300 rwhp. I realize track performance means more than a dyno graph, but if I'm getting the performance and the horsepower then all the better.

 

[mto502]

Pops, here's my graph for comparision. My torque is actually 317. This sdyno was done before we discovered a disconnected hose to the intake. For some reason that made 16 ft lbs of torque difference. I have cats and smog pump. The rest is in my sig. I've also since added pullies so maybe there's an extra 5 rwhp there. I'll guess I'm at 285 rwhp and maybe 320 torque. I'm probably going the custom cam route as well.

 

[Pops Fun]

moto502::
Your combo is a lot like mine HP wise H/C/I are different but . Making about the same HP with the same mods. If you get there ahead of me let me know if the custom cam helps or not..... Iam leaning in that direction. Just bought a slightly used set of cheaters w/wheels so Iam broke for the moment.

Steve

 

[mto502]

moto502::
Your combo is a lot like mine HP wise H/C/I are different but . Making about the same HP with the same mods. If you get there ahead of me let me know if the custom cam helps or not..... Iam leaning in that direction. Just bought a slightly used set of cheaters w/wheels so Iam broke for the moment.

Steve

I was just wondering why there's such a variance in your dyno sheet from one run to the next.

Yes I will let you know about the cam deal, if the snow ever goes away that is

We have to keep in mind that your car is much heavier than mine being a vert but I still think your ET should be better. I friend of mine has a 96 vert and his best ET on an unprepped track is 14 flat but his trap speed was 100-101 mph. He has heads cams and Bullit intake. He's making 270 rwhp and just over 300 rw torque. He's still learning to drive it at the track though. I'm just wondering how much practice you've had at the track. Maybe that's part of your problem as far as the ET is concerned. I'm a newbie as well and my best on a prepped track with street tires is 13.69 @ 104.6 mph with a slightly less than 2.2 60 ft. This was prior to pullies and shifter, but I was granny shifting the whole way. My 2nd to 3rd shifts need work.

 

[Pops Fun]

I was just wondering why there's such a variance in your dyno sheet from one run to the next.

Yes I will let you know about the cam deal, if the snow ever goes away that is

We have to keep in mind that your car is much heavier than mine being a vert but I still think your ET should be better. I friend of mine has a 96 vert and his best ET on an unprepped track is 14 flat but his trap speed was 100-101 mph. He has heads cams and Bullit intake. He's making 270 rwhp and just over 300 rw torque. He's still learning to drive it at the track though. I'm just wondering how much practice you've had at the track. Maybe that's part of your problem as far as the ET is concerned. I'm a newbie as well and my best on a prepped track with street tires is 13.69 @ 104.6 mph with a slightly less than 2.2 60 ft. This was prior to pullies and shifter, but I was granny shifting the whole way. My 2nd to 3rd shifts need work.

I haven't had much experience at the track been twice. Will keep trying.... Fishing season coming up that competes with the track on Saturdays. Trying to get there in the next couple weeks while it cool. Trying to get my cheaters fit with spacers and longer lugs etc.
The dyno chart. They were 2 different days with different mods listed below. Just added the High flow cats so I will get a few more HP there.

Lowered (Eibach 52/94), Cold Air Kit,
Under Drive Pullies, Ford 3.73 Gear, Steeda Tri-Ax, Flowmaster Exhaust,
Tokico Shocks & Struts, Mac Shorty Header
At that time:
210 RWHP 277 RWTK

TFS TW Heads, Steeda 19 Cam, Cobra Intake, FMS 65mm T/B, Pro-M 75MM MAF, Steeda 24# injectors, H&S 1.72 Roller Rockers, MSD 6al, Blaster coil, Walbro 255 LPH, Timing chain and Gear
Then:
281 RWHP 300 RWTK

Then High flow catted H pipe !!

Steve

 

[Pops Fun]

Hi
Just looking at my dyno (have the files at home) and I think I was shifting at about 5800 rpm, next time I will try shifting at 5400 , that is about my peak with 280 rwhp, 272 torque and a 12.65 afr.
Think that will help me at the track??

Steve

 

[Killercanary]

You don't want to shift AT your peak, you want to shift a few hundred rpm after it. My peak is at 5500 and I shift at 6000. I'd try 6000 next time if it was me, not 5400.

 

[tmoss]

I'd suggest you do the math and also know where in the rpm/torque curve you'll be AFTER the shift for different shift points.

 

[Killercanary]

I've done that Tom, and the "ideal" shift point for my car is in excess of 6300 for 1-2 and 2-3, 3-4 came out at 6200. I know this is wrong because on the few occasions I have revd the car to 6200 or so, it slows down conciderably. I'm just saying this in case he does the shift point calcs to warn him not to take them literally, its a good starting point but there is a lot of trial and error that will need to be done. It is a good suggestion for a starting place though.

 

[tmoss]

I agree with that Killer - I don't use any of the web based shift point calculators. I put together a simple Excel sheet that allows me to look at the torque curve of an engine (gotta have a dyno) and see where the shift points will put me in the power band with the trans and rear gears of a car. Shifting early at the right point often results in no loss of ET potential and can result in better ETs.

 

[mto502]

Pops, I've decided to go with a custom chip from Diablo. I'll let you know what happens with it. It's guaranteed so if it doesn't help I don't buy it. Before I do anything I want to do a leakdown test just to confirm compression though. The block only has 31,000 miles on it so the rings should be fine. It didn't use a drop when it was stock but I want to rule this out for oil consumption first. I'm guessing it's the old PCV valve and intake sucking it up.

In regards to my ET, I believe a set of 3.73's would be better suited for me as well. I'm not hitting my power band across the trap. I'm only reving around 4800 rpm at the trap.

 

[Pops Fun]

Thanks for the update keep me informed

Pops Fun

 

[94greenvert]

mto502,
How come you don't have an AFPR? When I installed my new pump, the stock regulator had me way rich and bogging at WOT. (I had the stock on cause the BBK FPR was crap and not holding pressure). Since I've gotten the Kirban, I have had to dial down the pressure to about 36-37 to get the right mix.

 

[mto502]

mto502,
How come you don't have an AFPR? When I installed my new pump, the stock regulator had me way rich and bogging at WOT. (I had the stock on cause the BBK FPR was crap and not holding pressure). Since I've gotten the Kirban, I have had to dial down the pressure to about 36-37 to get the right mix.

My A/F is 13.5 to 1. It doesn't ping and runs well at WOT. It's possible I'm losing out on a few extra ponies with it being somewhat lean but that's a pretty safe number.
Now that I'm getting a chip I've been told to not bother with and aftermarket AFPR and just let the chip make those adjustments for me. My engine builder seems to think my stock FPR will work fine with 24 lb injectors and also mentioned it may be better with the chip. I can't adjust the fuel pressure after the chip install because that would have defeated the purpose sp why not leave the stocker on.

 

[Slow5.0]

I would rather be running under 12.5 with under 300 HP then have 325 and just crack into the 12's.

RC

Thats right , me too