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289 Cam Failure

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bristang5
  • Start date Start date Aug 31, 2015
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Bristang5

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Oct 8, 2010
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Aug 31, 2015
#1
  • Aug 31, 2015
  • #1
I rebuilt my 289 7 years ago and put a new cam and oil pump in it (amongst all the other parts)...this summer the cam failed and it was suggested that the high output pump was the issue. ..regardless I am faced with what do I need to change now? Someone said metal shavings were possible so change the oil pump....I imagine that my filter caught any shaving s and a new pump is called for. Car soundsteering good less the bad camm...any suggestions?
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
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Sep 23, 2015
#2
  • Sep 23, 2015
  • #2
Bristang5 said:
I rebuilt my 289 7 years ago and put a new cam and oil pump in it (amongst all the other parts)...this summer the cam failed and it was suggested that the high output pump was the issue. ..regardless I am faced with what do I need to change now? Someone said metal shavings were possible so change the oil pump....I imagine that my filter caught any shaving s and a new pump is called for. Car soundsteering good less the bad camm...any suggestions?
Click to expand...
What type of oil were you using? I'm assuming you had a flat tappet cam? It is extremely doubtful that the high volume oil pump had any affect here.
Cam failure to me mean refreshen the motor, at the very least I would check the bearings while you're putting a pump in the motor.
 
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Adieu

Easy there, this ain't a dating site.
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Oct 26, 2015
#3
  • Oct 26, 2015
  • #3
Almost all of your off-the-shelf oils no longer have sufficient ZDDP (zinc) in them for flat-tappet cams. This is the most likely source of your problem based on the info provided.

After tearing down, assessing, and fixing the engine, I'd highly recommend switching to Valvoline VR1, Shell Rotella (just the standard sae30 or 15w40), Joe Gibbs Driven, or Royal Purple. If you don't want to run one of those (don't know why not, they're all excellent), you can buy a ZDDP additive or a break-in additive and use it with the oil of your choice.
 

horse sence

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Oct 26, 2015
#4
  • Oct 26, 2015
  • #4
What brand cam is it ? Edelbrok cams seem to round off easy .I have never had a Comp cam or a Crane round but i have seen a lot of Edelbroks go bad . I would check the Rod and main bearings ,they are probably scored from metal particles .
 

tos

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Oct 28, 2015
#5
  • Oct 28, 2015
  • #5
horse sence said:
What brand cam is it ? Edelbrok cams seem to round off easy .I have never had a Comp cam or a Crane round but i have seen a lot of Edelbroks go bad . I would check the Rod and main bearings ,they are probably scored from metal particles .
Click to expand...

I didn't know that about Edelbrock cams but the same thing happened to me with a performer RPM flat tappet cam. I let mine sit for years before I was able to break it in but did use tons of engine lube knowing it would sit. I also primed it very well before firing up but it failed pretty quickly. I tore it completely down and thoroughly washed the block and all internal components including blowing out all holes, ports, and crevasses with compressed air to get out any remaining shavings. then went back with a roller cam, replaced main and rod bearings (they're very cheap) and I'm very happy with it.

As far as your pump causing it, It very doubtful and I'm not sure why someone would think that your pump could cause that? It may put a slight bit more strain on the cam gear but then so does a heavier weight oil, but its not enough to cause that sort of damage.

Also those pumps are easy to disassemble so I would take it apart and inspect it for damage. If its ok then take some carb cleaner and thoroughly clean it and the tube and screen.
 
Last edited: Oct 28, 2015

rbohm

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Oct 28, 2015
#6
  • Oct 28, 2015
  • #6
ok first question, what part of the cam actually failed? did you wipe a lobe, or did the drive gear shred? if a lobe was wiped, then the oil pump is not to blame, if the drive gear failed, then the oil pump just might be to blame.

as for what to do, i would pull the motor apart and clean out the oil passages, and put in a fresh set of bearings at least. also i would use a standard volume oi pump, and dont forget the ARP oil pump drive shaft.
 

84Ttop

They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
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Oct 28, 2015
#7
  • Oct 28, 2015
  • #7
I personally prefer Brad Penn "green" oil. It's a Pennsylvania crude refined with high levels of zinc and is a partial synthetic. From my 66 galaxie to my 1800hp race car they all use the same oil and zero issues ever. I can locate a retailer for you if need be, I doubt me being in NJ is much help as I am a dealer here
 

woodsnake

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Oct 31, 2015
#8
  • Oct 31, 2015
  • #8
I have had 2 Edelbrock Performer RPM cams wipe a lobe, or lobes.. You say you built the engine 7 years ago, but now have a failure? Did the engine sit for that long, before you ran it? My failures turned out to be push rod related/coil binding.
Did you use a custom push rod? I agree it is probably not the oil pump..Fords don't usually need a high volume pump, especially on a primarily street driven car.
 
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