347 Install need lots of advice and parts :) Read on

Well,

I finally (after two years) got around to putting my car back together but I'm having a few problems some of you might can help with.

First here is an overview of the car.

1995 GTS
B50 Block / CHP 347 Street Fighter Kit
GT40 Lower
Kenne Bell 1.5 CFM SC (I know too small for 347)
1.6 Rockers (Tall Valve Covers)
Canfield Stage 3 Heads
Kenny Brown AGS-5 Suspension
bla bla bla

Those are some of the big points but there is tons of little stuff like Aeromotive Fuel rails, 255lb pump, Aeromotive FP regulator, etc.. you get the idea.

Here are a few of my problems/questions.

1. BBK long tube headers (ceramic) are a PITA to get it. I'm assuming from reading I"m going to have to raise the motor on the right side to get them in. Can you raise it high enough without disconnecting the tranny?

2. Tall Valve Covers are not letting me put the Kenne Bell back on. I did get a 1" spacer but it still needs about 3/4 of an inch to make contact. Thought about countersinking some holes and bolting two spacers together. Any thoughts here? May be willing to do a nice trade with someone for GT40 upper and more. (Really want to put twin turbo setup later)

3. Distributor (MSD Pro Billet) is hitting my fuel rail on the drivers side when I try to install it. It may go if I remove the fuel rail and install then replace rail but not sure yet. ne1 ever ran into this one?

4. OMG in my move I lost my tranny/bellhousing bolts to the block. Does anyone have a spare set I could get off of you pretty cheap :)..

That will about do it for now. :)
 
Well actually at this point not sure the KB is going to make it with the spacing issue I'm having.. Also the 1.5 CFM KB is a little too small for the 347. I'm estimating that with the smallest pulley I can put on it I might get 5 or 6 lbs of boost. Everyone agree??
 
If the plastic housing under the MSD cap is the reason you have clearance issuses with your fuel rails, then you are going to have to make a notch with a dremel in it so it clears.Just make sure you do not grind hole in housing. This is what I did to make it clear the bigger Aeromotive fuel rails. Good Luck.
 
Well, after thinking about this for awhile I believe instead of taking a dremel to my dist. I'll just take a band saw to about .5 inches of my fuel rail. That will leave me enough thread to put the end cap on but i just have to make sure that on that side it doesn't get too close to the fuel injector (which faces forward on the drivers side arrrgg)..
 
On the headers the drivers side you can fish up from the bottom, just disconnect the steering knuckle, and on the pass side..unbolt the motor mount jack the pass side of the motor up a lil, and the header will slide in from the top.

As for the valve cover, to make it easy you could get stock fox ones cheap and they would clear...what i did after i got sick of the tall vc deal.

I'd go to lowes and get some grade 8 bolts and call it a day for the tranny...instead of waiting and ordering bolts.

Good Luck
Chris
 
Stroked347 said:
Well actually at this point not sure the KB is going to make it with the spacing issue I'm having.. Also the 1.5 CFM KB is a little too small for the 347. I'm estimating that with the smallest pulley I can put on it I might get 5 or 6 lbs of boost. Everyone agree??

Like the others said, the Fox vc will work and most likely will not need a spacer between the intakes.

If you do the spacer thing will that cause anything to not line up like pulleys and such or will the spacer just require a longer belt?

As for the boost being at 5 or 6 lbs.........who cares, cause the boost value is just a measurement of restriction......correct? The more efficient the combo the lower the boost value......correct?

Later
Grady
 
eades5.0 said:
I'd go to lowes and get some grade 8 bolts and call it a day for the tranny...instead of waiting and ordering bolts.

Good Luck
Chris



In addition to what Chris said, if there is a "Tractor Supply" store near you get your bolts there, they are a HELL of a lot cheaper than lowes/home depot. You pay by the pound at tractor supply, I just saved $12 by buying my front control arm bolts at TS over Lowes.


As for the boost, the KB is unique in that the larger the TB, MAF, and inlet pipe between the two you have the more boost you will make... its sort of like a power pipe on a centrifical blower. Get rid of the restrictions in front of the blower and this makes it more efficient and therefore you push more air per rotation of the blower.