351W buildup

[thegabrielles]

I posted this in the race tech but only got one response and he said to try here, so here goes!!!

I am currently in the process of rebuilding my 82GT. The car has sat for most of the last 10years with little to no running, the motor only has about 6kl miles since the original build in 1992. The block and heads are at the machine shop and looked great when I took them apart. I am looking to rebuild to a bit better than before but I want a good street motor. The combinbation I have is:
The car is an 82GT that weighs in at almost 3700lbs (I know it needs to go on a diet but so do i) The tranny is an upgraded T-5Z (wanna take bets as to how soon it blows) with 4.10 gears. It will be a street car with street tires (Mickys)
351W block, nothing special done to it except the motor is all studs. Mains, Rods, adn Heads. The motor will never see any power adders.
The rotating assembly is a stock 351W crank with polished rods and KB (Flycut for the valves) Hypoeutectic (sp?) pistons. Comp ratio about 10.5:1
The heads are the "vintage" TFS Highport steel heads from the early 90's. The had a Stage 2 port and polish done at Powered by Ford in Orlando when I bought them in the early 90's. The valvetrain is stainlesss valves, I have been trying to get the info on the heads but can not get the exact numbers but I believe the heads to have 205 intake and 160 exaust valves, the springs retainers and everythihng else is top of the line, well fo back then. Everything is beiong checked out thouroughly at the machine shop but I done feel I will replace anything except guides and seals in the heads.
The intake is a Victor Jr and I have always run a 750DP on top.

So hear is the question, I have had two cams in the motor since I originnaly built it, the first was a higher RPOM cam and when the oil pump locked up it took it out, I decided on a lower RPM cam to see if I could make it more reliable. The second cam ran good but never felt good compared to the first. I remember having plenty of valve to piston clearance. The original cam had around 560 lift, been a long time and the cam specs are no where to be found (they must be with the head specs) I believe I had.040- .050 clearance with that cam. Of course I will check anything I put in during assembly. Two cams have been recommended to me.

TFS51402002 Specifications:
-Duration at .050: 236 intake. 248 exhaust
-Cam lift: .359" intake./.372" exhaust
-Valve lift with 1.6 rockers (intake/ exhaust).574 "./.595 "
This cam seesm a tad big for the street, but I am sure it would run great if the valves dont hit the pistons.

TFS51402001Specifications:
RPM range: 2500-6000
-Advertised Duration: 286 intake. 294 exhaust
-Duration at .050: 224 intake. 232 exhaust
-Lift: .542" intake. .563" exhaust
This seems to be about what I remember from the orininal build, but the RPM range was much higher than this. Seems like the duration was in the 240-250 range, with a 114 lobe seperation. The original cam was a solid lifter cam!!! I really would like to go with a hydaulic cam.

So yeah the question... what do you think about the cams? Would you have asuggestion as to a different one?

What about head gaskets, I have been reading about the coppers, are they worth it for a N/A motor or will good old felpros work.

Thanks and sorry for the long post.

 

[bluevenom867]

TFS Stage 2,its a good cam...

The 3 would be if you were runing a small shot of nitrous (witch you say you wont),so I wouldnt go with it.

And of course there always a custom grind,a little more but they can make it drive just how you want.

 

[Tonys96Cobra]

Sounds like a great project! Get us some pics when you get her back together. For head gaskets, I beleive the Fel Pro would be just fine.

 

[thegabrielles]

Well, I am continuing to call around, I actually talked to TFS today, they dont even have the specs on those heads any more.


Also the two TFS cams are both Hydraulic rollers, which I dont want. I am getting recommendations to stay with a "solid" cam instead of hydraulic.
The specs I have been given are:
Advertized duration I .282-E .288
duration@ .050 I .242-E .250
lift I .538 E .557
Anyone that can chime in on these?

Also I was told my old motor probably was not making the power I thought it was, but that 500hp is achievable with this setup, but not likely. Either way, running in the 11's is good for me, it does not matter what the HP numbers are.

Thanks for the help!!!

 

[bluevenom867]

Well, I am continuing to call around, I actually talked to TFS today, they dont even have the specs on those heads any more.


Also the two TFS cams are both Hydraulic rollers, which I dont want. I am getting recommendations to stay with a "solid" cam instead of hydraulic.
The specs I have been given are:
Advertized duration I .282-E .288
duration@ .050 I .242-E .250
lift I .538 E .557
Anyone that can chime in on these?

Also I was told my old motor probably was not making the power I thought it was, but that 500hp is achievable with this setup, but not likely. Either way, running in the 11's is good for me, it does not matter what the HP numbers are.

Thanks for the help!!!

No,run the hyd. roller it will feel more more torque and responsive on the street.An unless its a roller (whitch can be expensive as hell to set up),you will actualy make less power than a hyd. roller (solild flat < hyd. roller).

What are you spring set-up for?That will determin what cam type you can run.

 

[Stangninjak]

I am in the middle of building my 351w now, and the block I went with was a hyd roller. I am running a TFS stage 1 cam, and the TFS Heads. I would say go with a hyd roller if possible, but it may also be decided by what type of block you have, and cam.

I use race felpro's putting my stuff back together, and regular felpro's. I have mr gaskets race headers for the pipes.

Mods in sig, and see pics in the classic section, http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=621211

 

[304billet]

I would go with the comp cam XE282HR, .565/.575, 232/240 and a 110LC. or if u want real good street manners the XE274HR or TFS stage 2. The TFS stage 3 has no street manners at all.

u only use a 114LC with a boosted engine.

The TFS Hi-ports r some bad ass heads. have ur intake port matched to the heads.

 

[thegabrielles]

The block is a non-roller block so I would have to retro fit the block for the roller setup. I have nopt priced it, but I am sure it can not be that bad. The intake is port matched to the heads.
The original cam I had did have a 114LC and it ran great, just did not make a lot of torque down low.

I want street manners, if it can not be driven on the street reliably its not worth it for me to have. I want to build a street car every once in a while maybe a pass down Atlanta speedway just to see what it will do. But that will be in pure street form.

304billet, you said they are some great heads, but I sure wish I had the info on them. I can measure the valves but I believe they were 2.05 and 1.60, I just dont remember aanyhting else.
The springs that are on it are dual springs that were set up for .560 lift cam, aty least that is what was going in it when I built it. Powered by Ford in Orlando got together most of the pieces for me and did the Portand polish on the heads.


Thanks for the advice, I will check into those cams a bit more.

 

[thegabrielles]

Well, I just spoke to comp cams, trhey said if I went with the Hyd roller I would end up having to change the springs, pushrods, the retro kit, etc. That is not going to happen, unfortunately $$ is a factor.

So they recommended the XE284H, but said I might get a bit more power out of the 294 but would sacrifice torque and drivability.

So the search continues.

 

[304billet]

u could go custom from FTI or Jay allen.

I would not use 114LC on a NA motor, period. Even if it ran great it would have ran better with a 110/112LC.

call TFS about ur head specs, they will now the specs. or u can try Fox Lake in Ohio.

The aluminum Hi-ports have been deep into the 8th's with a power adder. They can support 500hp to 1700hp.

 

[thegabrielles]

Definitely not looking for 114LC, thats just what I ran before, everything I am finding now is 110 or 112. I called TFS adn the guy I spoke to was not even sure of the valve size. He thought they were 192, but I am pretty sure they are 2.05, but could be 2.02. I spoke with Powered by Ford and although they remember the heads they dont rmember the exact specs either but they did recommend a cam, the one I posted earlier.
Advertized duration I .282-E .288
duration@ .050 I .242-E .250
lift I .538 E .557
I think it is 110LC but for some reason I did not write it down. That is a custom grind cam by PBF. I just want to ensure I get the power I expect from it. I would like 450RWHP but that is probably ambitious, with the weight of the car I think I would need that to see the low 11's. What kinda power do you think I could get from this setup?

 

[89white50]

Call or email ed curtis at FTi like others have said. for 300 and change a custom cam will run circles around and off the shelf stick, and drive just the way you want.

http://www.flowtechinduction.com/

 

[thegabrielles]

I just sent him an e-mail with my specs, thanks!!!!

 

[bluevenom867]

The TFS heads should be 2.02/1.60 Intake/Exhaust respectively.

The lobe seperation angle can be more as the intake centerline increases,you can run a n/a cam of say 114 LSA as long as the intake center line was adjusted to work with it.

Also try www.cammotion.com they've done our couple of cams (a hyd. roller that ran awsome on the 408,and a solid roller that will run even better once its reborn again as a 427,heheh)