351w Engine Guru's....what to do????

[67GTCOUPE]

Here is my situation:

The 351w in my 67 GT Coupe lost a con rod bearing.....so it needs to be rebuilt. Money is TIGHT.

I have a 96 351 roller block.
Trick Flow stage 1 cam 0.498/0.512" lift
Edelbrock Performer RPM heads with 1.90/1.60 valves.
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
Quick Fuel Pro Vac 750 carb
Speed Pro 1.6 roller rockers
Summit SFI balancer
Ram Billet Flywhell
etc....


SO.......I am going to buy a rotating assembly......but which one and what size?

My heads are very limiting for strokers.......I may be able to sell them to a friend and get some Vic Jr's......but doubtful.

I really, really was impressed with the combo in my little 67 on the street.......pulled very strong up to 6000rpm limiter.

I know many will say it is under cammed and too small heads, but there was something with this combo......it kills on the street!

That is why I am really leaning towards rebuilding it to a 357.......not stroking it.

I would use scat cast crank or a stock crank turned down to cleveland mains, scat or eagle H beams, and nice forged pistons for my little 357.

What would you do? Keep in mind that I do not have the funds for AFR or other expensive heads, not untill we pay off the GT vert we bought!

 

[SlowGT]

I know many will say it is under cammed and too small heads, but there was something with this combo......it kills on the street!

Yes to the itty bitty cam But it costs to experiment. If you're satisfied with the performance, I'd only change the necessary parts--bearings. Maybe replace the mains too while you're in there.

Unless you plan on boosting or spraying sometime down the road, I wouldn't bother with the improved crank & rods. The stock parts will handle everything you'll make with this setup, even if you went with a rippier cam later on. Everybody has a take on how much the stock parts will handle. I'd be plenty comfortable with the stock parts up to 500hp under 6000rpm. I'd save my money and make a few extra principle payments on the vert. Get it paid off and then go all out on the 67 next time around.

 

[67GTCOUPE]

Actually it is about as big a cam as I could run with the stock pistons.

I had a piston tap my head.....so I may need to replace the entire rotating assembly.

I need to rip the block out of the car and look at the bottom end......BUT, I think it is safe to say at minimun I need one piston and rod, bearings, and crank if it is salvagable will need machining.

 

[408stroker5.0]

You can build a budget stroker pretty easily..... I forget what the exact C.I.D. Come's out to,(Around 418-420 I Think) but you can use a 400M Crank (Main's, Machined for a 351W Block), Factory Chrysler Rod's, and Piston's made for this certain Combo. Keith Black Make's Hyper's for this type of set up that are reasonably priced. I know people who have went this route with great result's and the dollar's it took to complete the build were fairly minor. I'm sure you could find more info on the web about this 400M/Chrysler Stroker set up to find which specific Chrysler rod to use.... (Sorry I cant remember) This setup should be pretty strong as well and would definetly make some mean power.
Or you could spend big cash and go the way I went (See Sig.) I learned when estimating a project for your car take your estimated total and double it at the least.... that will be what it's going to cost you.
Or just build a 357.... Throw some Forged Piston's in her (10.5:1) polish the rod's and throw some ARP bolt's in her and use a factory Cast Ford Crank which can handle some decent power. Check out the SCAT 9000 Series crank while your at it. Rated at 700HP and they are very reasonable priced.... not much more then getting your factory crank re done. Throw a little bit more cam in her, and those Performer RPM's you have and you'll have a pretty mean motor on your hands.
Also, I'd say some better head's would definetly be a good idea..... For a 357 the 1.90 Performer RPM's which you have would be not to bad, but Performer RPM's with 2.02's and maybe some minor port work for the hell of it would really get the true potential out of her. For a Stroker, Victor's would be alright but make sure you have the cam and compression to back them up.

 

[67GTCOUPE]

If my crank needs machining.....I am just going to buy a new one......most likely the cast scat one.

 

[hllon4whls]

I know money is tight, but if you are going to buy a new crank, it is time for a stroker motor.

Is this your only transportation/daily driver?

 

[67GTCOUPE]

No. It is a completely restored 67 GT coupe that only sees sunny drives.

It needs to be street drivable, and I will be taking it on long trips to various car shows.

I think I could get away with a 393 stroker with the heads I have. I would not go any bigger, unless I get Vic Jr heads.......which is very unlikely.

 

[tjm73]

A 408 stroker's cost about $1200 fully balenced. That's a 4.00" stroke and 4.03" bore. Anew cast crank is going to cost about $500 and you'll need to do all the same things to the engine to put either in it. So for not much more you'll get more torque, hp and a lighter faster reving engine. it's better all around for everything. Something to think about.

With your current parts it would be a TORQUE factory big time!!

 

[hllon4whls]

That is my point. IF you have or want to get a new crank, it is time for a new motor (bottom half). The cam, induction and compression makes it streetable or not. If you do a mild cammed, mild head, small carb/intaked 393 or 408, you will have gobs of low end torque and you will have hp up top, just maybe it will fall off at 5200. By then you will be 3-4 car lengths ahead of your current combo.

This is basically my plan. I have a play toy as well. When this motor dies, a stroker is going in its place. Since money is always an object, I will save up till I get what I want.

 

[67GTCOUPE]

TTT

 

[dastang2]

it only costed me 60 dollars to have the crank in my 302 machined and less than 30 for the bearings.