3G swap, these the basic steps?

Here is how I've done it on several cars.

Obviously disconnect the battery first.

1. Grind the bracket for clearance
2. Leave all of the power wires intact from the stock harness. There is no need to cut any and by leaving it intact, you can always go back to the 2G if needed.
3, Splice into the white stator wire ( i cut back the insulation and soldered but you can use a crimp on connector )with either the correct connector or you can use an insulated female spade connector. I wrapped up the old connector and stator wire in electrical tape. Tuck away the wires.
4. Plug in the stator wire and D shaped connector from the 2G into the connectors on the 3G Do NOT attach the stock power wires for the 2G to the back of the post.
5. Run at least a 4 gauge wire from the post on the back of the 3G to the + side of the starter solenoid, with a 150 amp fuse mounted in a watertight container. I ran mine around the front of the upper radiator channel in a wire loom and then drilled through both sides near the bottom of the battery box so the inline fuse sits in the cavity in the bottom of the battery box protected from the elements and hidden from sight.
6. Run an additional ground - 4 gauge wire from the block to the chassis or the ground post behind the battery on the driver firewall.
7. Reconnect the battery + first, then -. Check for voltage drop with engine off and on.

You may also want to swap out the pulley on the 3G for the 2G as the 3G pulley tends to be larger. Quick zap with the air gun. No need to swap the external fan. You may need to shim the pulley to get it to align properly with the belt routing.

IMO you are better off buying one of the kits where the 4g power wires are already pre assembled to the eyelets. You need alot of pressure to make a good connection. I found it was actually cheaper than piecing it together yourself. There is a guy on the corral that sells them with everything you need. The right length of 4g wire with eyelets attached, stator wire, fuse and watertight case, even the top bolt for the alternator, and instructions. Only thing you need is a neg cable for ground.

I think his handle is Grn92? That is about right for the price. Go price out the wire, fuse, fuse holder etc. IMO it's worth paying a few bucks not to have to drive around to parts stores and piece it together, but it's your money.

I'll try and find the link when I get home later.

Follow the link - in it is everything you need to know about the electrical part - diagrams of all the cables and connections.

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/3g-alternator-install-a-how-to.646825/#post-6673702

Here is the link to the kit

http://forums.corral.net/forums/ele...ternator-upgrade-complete-kit-small-case.html

A nice writeup except I do not agree with cutting the wires. Nice pictures.

http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html

Yes, 150 amp fuse is fine. You want the 3g with the holes at 12 and 6 oclock with the threaded hole at 12 oclock. Many have posted which alternators will swap in and I don't think that one was on the list. Just get an alternator from any 94-96 Mustang from a junkyard, the message boards, or a reman from rock auto for $100.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3373713&cc=1134133

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