So, as the carb mounting surface sits right now it is dead level. That puts the engine at about a 3 to 3.5 degree angle. Which I think should be fine, as it is the stock angle for a 429 anyway.
The diff angle was built in by quick performance when they built the 9" housing, based on the stock mustang II application, and my intended use for the car.
It probably follows then that all should be good. I just overthink things sometimes.
As far as I have learned, the idea of driveline phase is that under load both the diff and the trans should be at parallel angles. This places the driveshaft at an offset which makes for smooth running with no parasitic drag. If you run the driveshaft at non parallel angles or directly pointing at one another you run into trouble yes.
I am going to continue to research and measure lol...
The diff angle was built in by quick performance when they built the 9" housing, based on the stock mustang II application, and my intended use for the car.
It probably follows then that all should be good. I just overthink things sometimes.
As far as I have learned, the idea of driveline phase is that under load both the diff and the trans should be at parallel angles. This places the driveshaft at an offset which makes for smooth running with no parasitic drag. If you run the driveshaft at non parallel angles or directly pointing at one another you run into trouble yes.
I am going to continue to research and measure lol...
Engine and trans mounted. Now waiting on the mid plate. Got the engine set at 2.5 to 3 degrees incline.
Only two pipes per side can fit under chassis. Other two per side go right through the fender well
Ordering header kit today..Mid plate is almost finished, Started mocking up shaker and cut the hood. I think I may have to order the Starter so I know what room I have to work with as it is going to get real tight in there.
I am 99% sure I am going to go with the Sniper fuel injection, because its the only way I'm going to fit the shaker without having it too high for my liking. I was considering it anyway for ease of tune.
They have a matching ignition system also so it all ties together.
I want to start putting the firewall back in but I have a few more things to install that will be easier with it out ( starter, mid plate, headers)
I am 99% sure I am going to go with the Sniper fuel injection, because its the only way I'm going to fit the shaker without having it too high for my liking. I was considering it anyway for ease of tune.
They have a matching ignition system also so it all ties together.
I want to start putting the firewall back in but I have a few more things to install that will be easier with it out ( starter, mid plate, headers)
Lol. Yeah me too. I have a couple pieces mocked up, should get the hood cut today. It's tricky because the engine is offset compared to the hood,, but the scoop is not. I am waiting on some more of the shaker parts to dial it in and get it located. I noticed while searching on the net that another guy put one in a II with a small block, and he used the whole filter assembly etc. looked like a nice clean job he did. Mine will be a bit different because I have no room for a conventional air cleaner set up.
Long time since I have posted. Here is a pic of the mid plate. I will have to mount it up and see where/how the corresponding frame mounts will go.
This is how it sits looking from front of car starter on the pass side of course.
This is how it sits looking from front of car starter on the pass side of course.
Lol
I have been busy with non-Mustang projects, but this week making real progress on firewall templates. Made it out of cardboard to get pieces figured out and transfer to metal..
Everywhere is closed that I can get sheet metal from and the pieces i have "in stock" are too small, so that is now the hold up.
Got my header tubes and flanges, but I need to put some metal back in (firewall) before I take any more out. I really need to hack out a bunch more metal to get my headers in, and clean up the front inner fenders so the main firewall needs to go back in first to keep everything stable. It's quite sturdy, but i don't want to take a chance.
My firewall area and pedals are trying to occupy the same space as well...pretty cramped in there for three pedals, now i see why everyone goes auto.
I will try to get some more pics shortly. I think I will be tweaking the pedals to gain some room, but it has to be comfortable or I will rework it until it is.
Got a water pump coming also. I went with the Davies Craig electric pump. I am going to run their controller and fan as well. Their set up uses sensors and controller to manage water pump and fan, so in effect a thermostat is not needed. This is a great simplification to the cooling system, and less parts means less plumbing.
I plan on running an oil cooler as well, so I think I should be good with keeping the thing cool.
I may start installing the roll bar while I wait for sheet metal for firewall. I have it assembled loosely in there but the instructions do not supply any info on placement, and since I have all of the interior removed, it's difficult to know where to locate it exactly. Has anyone installed one of these autopower roll bars before?.
I have been busy with non-Mustang projects, but this week making real progress on firewall templates. Made it out of cardboard to get pieces figured out and transfer to metal..
Everywhere is closed that I can get sheet metal from and the pieces i have "in stock" are too small, so that is now the hold up.
Got my header tubes and flanges, but I need to put some metal back in (firewall) before I take any more out. I really need to hack out a bunch more metal to get my headers in, and clean up the front inner fenders so the main firewall needs to go back in first to keep everything stable. It's quite sturdy, but i don't want to take a chance.
My firewall area and pedals are trying to occupy the same space as well...pretty cramped in there for three pedals, now i see why everyone goes auto.
I will try to get some more pics shortly. I think I will be tweaking the pedals to gain some room, but it has to be comfortable or I will rework it until it is.
Got a water pump coming also. I went with the Davies Craig electric pump. I am going to run their controller and fan as well. Their set up uses sensors and controller to manage water pump and fan, so in effect a thermostat is not needed. This is a great simplification to the cooling system, and less parts means less plumbing.
I plan on running an oil cooler as well, so I think I should be good with keeping the thing cool.
I may start installing the roll bar while I wait for sheet metal for firewall. I have it assembled loosely in there but the instructions do not supply any info on placement, and since I have all of the interior removed, it's difficult to know where to locate it exactly. Has anyone installed one of these autopower roll bars before?.