Build Thread 429MII's Build Thread

Something very familiar about this... it's causing a flashback to a week or so ago...
Ahhh yes.....Changing from PS to Manual necessitates the chop and reconstruct of the steering shaft. I noticed when I looked back at your pic, your shaft stub on the rack is a lot longer than mine. I bought a universal rack with a short shaft to keep the joint as far away from header space as possible which means I have to add a pice of shaft to the middle hence my union instead of a u joint. I will have the new u- joint right off the rack and then a stub of new shaft and then the union seen in the pics, and then the cut off original shaft .

How much shaft movement is there in the column? I noticed that since you pulled yours out it gets real close to the inner, (hence removing the offending screw) but this closeness to the fender helps me with header clearance so I may try pulling on the column shaft. How hard do you have to pull to get it to move down?
 
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Ahhh yes.....Changing from PS to Manual necessitates the chop and reconstruct of the steering shaft. I noticed when I looked back at your pic, your shaft stub on the rack is a lot longer than mine. I bought a universal rack with a short shaft to keep the joint as far away from header space as possible which means I have to add a pice of shaft to the middle hence my union instead of a u joint. I will have the new u- joint right off the rack and then a stub of new shaft and then the union seen in the pics, and then the cut off original shaft .

How much shaft movement is there in the column? I noticed that since you pulled yours out it gets real close to the inner, (hence removing the offending screw) but this closeness to the fender helps me with header clearance so I may try pulling on the column shaft. How hard do you have to pull to get it to move down?
The first time was on accident, with a pry bar, trying to get the original joint off the end of it. After that, it moves with a lot less effort (but not quite freely, you'll still have to give it some "umpf").
 
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Whoa talk about threading the needle

Is fun to see it happen :) thanks for posting on this.
Can't wait for sound bites in the future!;)


Carry on!
 
Not much new interesting going on yet. I ordered my driveshaft from Strange engineering (Bear's performance in Canada)

4130 seamless DOM Chrome Moly 3" shaft with 4130 chrome moly forged ends and billet slip yoke for trans. 1350 solid joints..It's only 38" long so it should last forever......Like usual major overkill....lol:rolleyes:
I had to keep it to as small a diameter as possible for the tight tunnel clearance, so hence the super tough material. 3 1/2 tubing could have been made in plain steel which would have been a lot cheaper, but I want the space.
Pulling the engine back out next to finish the crap ton of welding in the engine compartment etc.

Oh..I ordered fiberglass hood, front and rear mid tuck bumpers and front valance and spoiler from Classic auto reproductions. So that is exciting...they had to build the hood so it won't ship for a week or so but...can't wait... :)
 
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Well I ordered a boss 429 scoop today. I can't really visualize what I need to without it. I need so much room for the carb air cleaner I can't see how I can make the shaker work. I could have the shaker, but there would be no air filter, so that won't fly.
 
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Driveshaft is on its way. 900.00 from Strange engineering. yikes. That is officially the most I have ever spent on a driveshaft. I hope it is purty.
Got the rad mounts built and installed. No shroud or ducting quite yet but soon. Pics to follow today hopefully.
 
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No... $900 Canadian so... $650 US. You guys down south have a much cheaper build that us Canucks.
The driveshaft is Chrome moly with billet ends. I looked everywhere. They are all around the same price for what I got. Nobody will guarantee regular steel shafts under 3.5" for over 500 hp. I have limited tunnel clearance and I need room for exhaust so I had to stick with 3".
 
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