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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

5 lug / suspension swap progress

  • Thread starter Thread starter Snikt89GT
  • Start date Start date Nov 18, 2006
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MikeC

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Aug 1, 2002
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Dec 31, 2006
#41
  • Dec 31, 2006
  • #41
Snikt89GT said:
They are the correct coarse bolts. I just backed it out in the picture. They were snug against the caliper and it sheared off when I was torqueing it to the "correct" not-so-correct 30 ft-lbs
Click to expand...

Maybe a bad bolt? Just get them tight enough that they don't leak.
 

onefstsnake

New Member
Nov 25, 2005
792
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Northern VA
Dec 31, 2006
#42
  • Dec 31, 2006
  • #42
you should be able to JB Weld a nut on there and get it out.

Or you could slot the top and get it out but that could get shavings into the caliper.

Everything else looks great.
 

GSP393

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Aug 14, 2006
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Orange County, Texas
Dec 31, 2006
#43
  • Dec 31, 2006
  • #43
Looks good, nice wheels too. I'll be collecting stuff to do my 5 lug swap, I need some 94-95 spindles and I want some wheels that only come in 18x9.
 

Snikt89GT

New Member
Sep 6, 2006
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Deland, Florida
Jan 1, 2007
#44
  • Jan 1, 2007
  • #44
Looks like it just really comes together with the wheels on. I'm pretty happy about the look. I'm glad I decided to paint the rotors. They would look fine now, but when they rusted it would show through big time with these wheels.

Only a couple minor things left to do before being finished. Have to wait for the new banjo bolts to arrive though.




 

90

Active Member
Sep 24, 2006
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43
Michigan insane asylum
Jan 1, 2007
#45
  • Jan 1, 2007
  • #45
how much did you pay for the tires ?
 

Snikt89GT

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Sep 6, 2006
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Deland, Florida
Jan 1, 2007
#46
  • Jan 1, 2007
  • #46
90mustang_GT5.0 said:
how much did you pay for the tires ?
Click to expand...

I think it was around 100-105$ each for the 245s and 90-95 for the 235s from tirerack
 

spidee

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May 9, 2006
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#47
  • Jan 1, 2007
  • #47
I'm waiting for a $3200 check to show up in the next couple of weeks. I'm planning on Steeda stage 1 and 2 suspension kits, Ford Racing 5-lug conversion kit, and 10th anniversary Cobra 17x9 wheels with new tires. I'm smiling from ear to ear watching your car take on its tranformation.
 

MikeC

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Jan 1, 2007
#48
  • Jan 1, 2007
  • #48
I think our cars were twins and separated at birth. With the exception of the caliper color. I really thought about going with the red calipers, but the regular ones won out in the end. I also kind of like the plain Mach I calipers.

Look!

 

Prime Lord

Crappy Default Title
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Sep 19, 2000
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Jan 2, 2007
#49
  • Jan 2, 2007
  • #49
Red calipers FTW! I love the way they look on mine.

Good call on painting the inner rotor, btw. I have to do that on mine. The rust really comes through the wheel. heh.
 
R

Reed

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Mar 31, 2005
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Jan 2, 2007
#50
  • Jan 2, 2007
  • #50
Those wheels really look killer on both of your cars. If I ever get a second fox I think I'm going with those wheels.
 

Snikt89GT

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Sep 6, 2006
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Deland, Florida
Jan 2, 2007
#51
  • Jan 2, 2007
  • #51
MikeC said:
I think our cars were twins and separated at birth. With the exception of the caliper color. I really thought about going with the red calipers, but the regular ones won out in the end. I also kind of like the plain Mach I calipers.

Look!
Click to expand...

It does look good. What suspension setup do you have? How much is it dropped?

I think i'm going to put the car on the ground tonight so I can see how it looks and get the distance measurement I need to jack up the arms to normal ride height. Have to torque the lower control arm bolts at ride height and setup the tie rod spacers.
 

MikeC

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Jan 2, 2007
#52
  • Jan 2, 2007
  • #52
Snikt89GT said:
It does look good. What suspension setup do you have? How much is it dropped?

I think i'm going to put the car on the ground tonight so I can see how it looks and get the distance measurement I need to jack up the arms to normal ride height. Have to torque the lower control arm bolts at ride height and setup the tie rod spacers.
Click to expand...

I have Steed Sport springs and Tokico Illumina struts. I didn't do a before measurement but it looke like it dropped about 1 inch. I need to order a set of lower control arms, I noticed the bushings are cracking.
 

Snikt89GT

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Deland, Florida
Jan 2, 2007
#53
  • Jan 2, 2007
  • #53
Ok I put the car on the ground and I just took some confusing measurements. It seems like the drivers side is sitting higher than passenger.

Keep in mind this is with a tape measure, so not 100% accurate.

Drivers --

Ground to fender lip (straight up through center cap on front wheel) - 27 1/2in
Bottom of center cap to fender lip - 16 3/4in
Ground to bottom of fog light hole - 11 1/2in

Passenger --

Ground to fender lip (straight up through center cap on front wheel) - 27in
Bottom of center cap to fender lip - 16 3/8in
Ground to bottom of fog light hole - 11 1/2in

Why would this happen? This is the first time the car is on the ground with the new springs. The CC plates aren't setup at all though, could this be due to the alignment being way off?
 

MikeC

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Jan 2, 2007
#54
  • Jan 2, 2007
  • #54
Snikt89GT said:
Ok I put the car on the ground and I just took some confusing measurements. It seems like the drivers side is sitting higher than passenger.
Click to expand...

I would not worry about measurement until you drive the car for a bit and let eveything take a set. Plus due to the build quality of these cars, I doubt they will ever be exactially the same.

Before you tighten the A arm bolts, I would roll the car back and forth and bounce it a few times.
 

Snikt89GT

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Jan 2, 2007
#55
  • Jan 2, 2007
  • #55
Ok, so when the car is on jack stands and you try to jack up on the a-arm it just picks the car up. So how are you supposed to get the arms at ride height to torque them?
 

MikeC

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#56
  • Jan 2, 2007
  • #56
Snikt89GT said:
Ok, so when the car is on jack stands and you try to jack up on the a-arm it just picks the car up. So how are you supposed to get the arms at ride height to torque them?
Click to expand...

What I like to do is drive the front up on ramps and level the rear with jackstands under the axle. Then get under there and torque everything up.
 

Snikt89GT

New Member
Sep 6, 2006
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Deland, Florida
Jan 2, 2007
#57
  • Jan 2, 2007
  • #57
MikeC said:
What I like to do is drive the front up on ramps and level the rear with jackstands under the axle. Then get under there and torque everything up.
Click to expand...

I don't have any ramps, I guess i'll try to come up with something.

I looked at the springs some more and it looks like the driver one is a little more forward down in the lower perch than the passenger one. Do you think this will even out while driving and under load?
 

MikeC

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Aug 1, 2002
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Jan 3, 2007
#58
  • Jan 3, 2007
  • #58
Snikt89GT said:
I don't have any ramps, I guess i'll try to come up with something.

I looked at the springs some more and it looks like the driver one is a little more forward down in the lower perch than the passenger one. Do you think this will even out while driving and under load?
Click to expand...

Maybe you could jack up the front high enough to put blocks under the tires?
 

spidee

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May 9, 2006
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Jan 3, 2007
#59
  • Jan 3, 2007
  • #59
From my experience of installing various aftermarket suspensions on different car makes, the measurements will always be off at first. You need to drive the car for a few miles on freeway, street, and some turns. I would say about 50 miles total. Then go back and measure. Everything should be seated by then. Seeing how the suspension you installed are not adjustable coilovers, you won't be able to adjust ride height for fine tuning. All you can do is check to see if the springs are seated correctly on their perches. If everything else is nice and tight, that might be the way the car stays. One more thing, check that all air pressures on the tires are matching. You never know, a few more pounds of air could throw your measurements off.
 

onefstsnake

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Nov 25, 2005
792
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Northern VA
Jan 4, 2007
#60
  • Jan 4, 2007
  • #60
yeah mine was off by 1/2" after new springs/shocks.
 
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