5 lug / suspension swap progress

Snikt89GT

New Member

Sep 6, 2006

264

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Deland, Florida

Jan 13, 2007

#61

• Jan 13, 2007

• #61

Well i'm finally pretty much done. Got my new banjo bolts this week, hooked up the brake lines and bled them today.

Only thing left is to correct the major toe issue (tried to back it out of the garage and it only took 3 ft to realize that) and try and get it somewhat aligned before I take it down to get an actual alignment.

I'll try to take some better pics tomorrow out in the sun.

Does anyone have any recommendations on what alignment settings to use? I assume with C/C plates you just tell the shop what you want?

Also, is there any way with home tools to get the toe, caster and camber remotely close to spec?

How did they do it back in the 60s before computer alignment stuff?

 

MikeC

Founding Member

Aug 1, 2002

240

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16

SLC, UT

Jan 13, 2007

#62

• Jan 13, 2007

• #62

Snikt89GT said:

Also, is there any way with home tools to get the toe, caster and camber remotely close to spec?

Click to expand...

I just eyeballed the home alignment after my install. It actually drove OK until I got an real alignment.

 

onefstsnake

New Member

Nov 25, 2005

792

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Northern VA

Jan 14, 2007

#63

• Jan 14, 2007

• #63

Loosen the nuts that hold the tie rods to the rack and unbolt your tie rods from the spindle. Spin the tie rods out (so you lengthen each side). each tie rod should be turned the same amount. then just eyeball it. the wheels should be straight with the fenders. I assume they are like this now // \\
Then tighten down the nuts that hold the tie rods to the spindle and the tie rods to the rack. As far as caster, you want as much as you can. I pushed the shock back towards the firewall as far as I could. And Camber I just adjusted each CC plate so they looked the same. Make sure you torque the CC plates to what the MFG recomends.

I havent gotten mine aligned yet since Ive done this. When you do take it somewhere make sure they know how to adjust CC plates. Alot of Alignment places dont know how...

 

Snikt89GT

New Member

Sep 6, 2006

264

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Deland, Florida

Jan 14, 2007

#64

• Jan 14, 2007

• #64

Yay

The car is done.. Here are some pics after I just drove it a few miles. It actually drives pretty good even with the makeshift alignment (I eyeballed the toe and added all of the caster).

I'm really happy about the brake pedal, it's fine on the first shot, no additional bleeding needed. All I did was gravity bleed too. I'm suprised that the stock M/C and stock booster work so well with the 03 cobra fronts and drum rear. Did a couple of hard stops, no problems there.

The only real question I have is about the flexible brake lines in front. Are they not supposed to touch anything at all? See the pics of the brake lines below. It looks like they might rub the hard line on the passenger side and the body on the drivers side.

View attachment 411097

View attachment 411099

View attachment 411101

View attachment 411103

View attachment 411105

 

9

92GreenGT

PEAT

Founding Member

Jul 18, 2002

2,085

1

46

Big Stone Gap, VA

Jan 14, 2007

#65

• Jan 14, 2007

• #65

I bet it feels like a new car with all those new suspension parts, looks fugging sweet dude.

 

R

Reed

New Member

Mar 31, 2005

78

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BC, Canada

Jan 14, 2007

#66

• Jan 14, 2007

• #66

Car looks beautiful with those wheels! Notice any drop with those springs?

 

Snikt89GT

New Member

Sep 6, 2006

264

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Deland, Florida

Jan 14, 2007

#67

• Jan 14, 2007

• #67

Reed said:

Car looks beautiful with those wheels! Notice any drop with those springs?

Click to expand...

Yep, I didn't take measurements but it's not too big. I'd guess 1/2 - 3/4 in. I'm running all poly isos too.

Anybody have any comments about the brake line routing? That's the only thing i'm a little questionable about.

I looked at my bro's car which has cobra brakes but has MM stainless lines instead. They aren't even close to hitting anything because they are much shorter than the Goodridge SS lines that I have.

 

onefstsnake

New Member

Nov 25, 2005

792

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Northern VA

Jan 15, 2007

#68

• Jan 15, 2007

• #68

yeah my lines are SS braided and are shorter.

you should be fine. Just check the line ever now and then and see if its rubbing. If it is you could always sleeve it.

Maybe if you flipped where the banjo bolt goes in on the line it might help. I flipped mine a couple times trying to figure out which way it was supposed to go. Doesnt look like the banjo ends are directional.

 

Snikt89GT

New Member

Sep 6, 2006

264

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Deland, Florida

Jan 15, 2007

#69

• Jan 15, 2007

• #69

onefstsnake said:

yeah my lines are SS braided and are shorter.

you should be fine. Just check the line ever now and then and see if its rubbing. If it is you could always sleeve it.

Maybe if you flipped where the banjo bolt goes in on the line it might help. I flipped mine a couple times trying to figure out which way it was supposed to go. Doesnt look like the banjo ends are directional.

Click to expand...

With the wheels straight, the passenger side SS hose is resting on the passenger hard brake line. On the drivers side it's about 1/4 in from resting on the side of the chassis. I would assume it would be even worse when turning.

I don't even see how moving the line / banjo bolt around would make it better?

Doesn't anyone else have these lines?

 

Snikt89GT

New Member

Sep 6, 2006

264

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Deland, Florida

Jan 20, 2007

#70

• Jan 20, 2007

• #70

Got it aligned today at tire kingdom. Now the steering wheel is actually straight and it drives pretty much like a new car now. The brake pedal still feels good as well.

Alignment sheet:

Left - 2.8o caster, -0.5o camber, 1/16" toe
Right - 3.2o caster, -0.6o camber, 1/16" toe

 

onefstsnake

New Member

Nov 25, 2005

792

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Northern VA

Jan 23, 2007

#71

• Jan 23, 2007

• #71

wow they didnt put much camber in it. the -.5/6 deg will be good for your tires. But you can safely go to -1 deg without much wear at all.

When I did my swap I think the camber was somewhere around 1.5 deg negative

 

Snikt89GT

New Member

Sep 6, 2006

264

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Deland, Florida

Jan 23, 2007

#72

• Jan 23, 2007

• #72

onefstsnake said:

wow they didnt put much camber in it. the -.5/6 deg will be good for your tires. But you can safely go to -1 deg without much wear at all.

When I did my swap I think the camber was somewhere around 1.5 deg negative

Click to expand...

The Maximum motorsports kit recommends 3/4 degree plus or minus 1/4 deg

 

KcMstang

Founding Member

Mar 26, 2001

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36

Hamilton, Georgia

Jan 23, 2007

#73

• Jan 23, 2007

• #73

Good job on the swap! I'm looking into the 5-lug conversion for my originally a 4cyl now 5.0 Mustang. Going to try and piece together all the parts like yourself instead of buying a thrown together kit. If I'm planning to run a 18x9 should I use the '94-'95 spindles? If I put a 18x10 on the rear whick axles shafts should I use???

 

Snikt89GT

New Member

Sep 6, 2006

264

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Deland, Florida

Jan 23, 2007

#74

• Jan 23, 2007

• #74

Those are some big wheels. You should always use the 94-95 spindles in front. As far as axles i'm not sure. I used the ranger axles since I stayed with drums. I imagine you would use the 94-95 SN95 axles.