The lines are with the calipers I hope?
You'll need to get an adaptor for the passenger side brake hose to go into the stock hard line.
You'll need the backing plates off the rear axle for rear disc brakes, they are oblong pieces with a hole in the middle that the axle goes through and are held on by 4 bolts to the ends of the rear housing tubes.
You're going to need some washers big enough to fit over your balljoint. I want to say you'll need a stack 0.330 inches tall on each side so you can use the cotter pin with the crown nut but that number might not be right. You can find all those details by punching 5 lug conversion into google though.
Let me see what else. You may want to grab the proportioning valve off that 94 as it's correct for 4 wheel disc. I can speak from personal experience if you don't change the brake proportioning bias when going from rear drum to rear disc you basically don't have rear brakes at all. The other option is to unscrew the front plug of the prop valve and pull out all the guts, then replace it with a solid plug as the stock one has a hole in it with a rubber grommet that simply isn't safe. If you do this you also need an adjustable proportioning valve inline with the rear brakes or you'll have waay too much rear brake bias. I picked up the plug on ebay for like 10 bucks and the prop valve for 30. I think you can get them cheaper if you're not lazy. I think it's also a good idea to get that master cylinder and I'd consider the power booster off that 94 too as your new brake calipers will want more brake fluid moved than the stock stuff did, and the 94+ mustangs came with larger master cylinders. You might need to massage the larger booster in aswell as adjust the brake pedal pushrod length to get the pedal where you want it. I also have a feeling one of the brake lines into the new master cylinder will also need an adaptor. NAPA is a good place to source brass fittings.
Don't forget plenty of brake fluid for bleeding, and always bleed from as far away from the master cylinder as possible! Meaning bleed the rear passenger corner first. Which reminds me, the rear brake caliper pistons have to be turned in, so if you don't have the tool to screw the pistons down into the calipers you'll want to get one of those too. You can use needle nose pliers but it isn't fun and you'll probably pinch the crap out of your hand once or twice.
Anyhow, that's it off the top of my head. Good luck man! The swap is defanently worth it
