600HP on stock crank?

Rickey_Bobby said:

Ok, everyone has heard that the 4.6L grenades at 500HP...
And everyone knows that its because of the powered metal rods.
...And everyone says "if u build the motor, put a forged crank in!"


...but what if you dont? what is the limit of the stock crank?

..not the whole motor, but JUST the crank.

All I want to do is put 500 ft/lbs of torque to the rear wheels.
I don't want to buy stuff that is overkill.

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LaserRed01GT said:

I would agree that if you are going to have the shortblock torn down anyway, you might as well go with a nice forged steel crank. There are a few aftermarket forged cranks out there that are much lighter than the nodular iron stock crank. Even the Cobra and FRPP forged steel cranks can be heat treated and knife edged for even less rotating mass and reduced windage.

Always make sure the shop doing you work maganafluxes not just the block but the crank as well. They should also check the crank for straighness, inspect and micropolish the journals, and properly balance it.

Most shops nowadays will automatically square and ensure the block decks are truly perpendicular to the crankshaft centerline, but just make sure they do. Also before they perform the final hone on the block they should AT LEAST use a torque plate or fixture, but most of the reputable machine shops now will additionally use a hot oil injection machine to keep the block at a simulated normal operting temp before performing the final hone. Also make sure you tell the shop what rings you plan on using. That can effect what is called the roughness average of the final hone.

One more thing....make sure they properly align hone the main bores with the main caps properly registered and marked.

There is alot more to the block prep process, but I was just trying to think of some of the important factors that stood out in my head.

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