64/5 Radiator upgrade

[blandq]

Hi Folks;

Old subject (17" raditor ain't making it).

I have a 64 coupe, 289 bored .04 over (problem #1), @ 417 HP, Vintage Air condensor (problem #2), and an 8x11 transcooler (auto obviously) (problem #3) all mounted with a 5-blade stainless flex Fan, 1350 CFM electric pull fan, 3-inch shroud,4-core copper radiator, March over drive WP pully, Moroso aluminum waterpump....and I am having difficulty keeping the temperature below 210/215.

I am considering cutting into the radiator support and widening it to accept the later 60's model year radiator. I believe they are 6 inches wider (23 Vs. 17"). I plan to go with an aluminum Griffin or Be-Cool. I do not want to go to an R-model valance as I like the somewhat stock-look of the std. coupe.

Question: Are Griffin or Be-cool radiators Soooooooo much better that I can skip cutting into my radiator support? Has any own had similar issues with a AC/trans-cooler stack in front of the radiator and had success with the stock-size aluminum.

All help welcomed,

Thanks

 

[LMan]

some thoughts.

1. 210/215 is NOT overheating. Are you sure you have a problem?

2. what's the "417 HP" reference?

3. I use an AFCO alum radiator that was $179.00. Summit sells an equivalent alum rad for about the same price. I think theres no need to shell out 4-500 bux for aluminum, although both Griffin and BeCool make very nice pieces.

as a data point...I have no A/C, and only the AFCO, a flex fan, no shroud, and a small oil/water heat exchanger. I have trouble getting the t-stat to open at cruise (180*), and only on the track does it approach 210-215.

btw, I think I saw that Griffin now has a 'lower-cost' radiator available. Its prob not 179.00, however...

4. *assuming* you really have an overheating problem (see #1 above), your system as you describe it is more than sufficient, assuming its all in good order. Perhaps there's another cause somewhere....? Head gasket? Does it o/h all the time? Only at idle? Only at cruise? Need more info.

 

[krash kendall]

Could the overdrive pulley be causing the coolant to flow too fast through the system, thus not giving it enough time in the rad to cool sufficiently?

 

[SitDown]

i dunno, i persoanlly get worried when im over 200 so i see his concern, especially with aluminum heads, 215 is getting broderline

i do agree with the above about the $180 afco piece. no need to spend another $300 on a b cool or equiv.

personally i think that 1300 cfm fan just isnt nearly enough. my 2800cfm fan was just barely enough to keep mine reasonably cool

 

[blandq]

I am not overheating...I never allow the car to exceed 220...ever. The problem I have is a detectible and unacceptable loss of power. As temperatures exceed 200 it is obvious that the snap is a little reduced. (I am of the opinion that I want ever bit of every performance dollar maximized. (For instance I run dual pito tubes in my collectors tubed to my valve covers with anti-backfire valves for crankcase ventilation.

417 HP is a horse power reference. For the 289 expereinced block folks, taking it .040 over is asking for heating issues. Spawned from the 260 castings there is not much metal....but I regress. I built the car as a very nice looking, air conditioned, electric window ride....That is very quick. In addtion I run a 100-shot of giggle-gas on top of that. If you put your foot in it enough it will get warm - fast.

My primary question is with an AC condenser AND a trans cooler (I do not run trans fluid through the radiator) should I go with a stock-fit '65 or go ahead and cut into the sheet metal and put in a wider radiator?

 

[krash kendall]

My 302 is bored .040 over as well and yes it gets hot fast when driving it hard. I also have a trans cooler strapped to the front of the rad, much to my displeasure, because it blocks off about 20% of the tiny rad that already is barely adequate. The previous incarnation of my car had an F-150 crossflow rad in it with the support hole cut wider that never let the car get hot. You seem to have all the information you need, you just have to decide.

 

[dennis112]

As you know, you need more core space to aid cooling.

To help keep my car looking original to the casual observer (it's a sleeper) I swapped in a radiator core support from a 68' mustang. It is the same height as the 65' but also has a 24" wide radiator opening (same size that the big blocks and AC cars had.) I then used a 4 row 68' copper AC radiator as it looks more stock than an aluminium unit.

A little fabrication (and some welding skill) is required to do it right, but it was easily completed in a couple of afternoons (by myself) and it works very, very well with my 393.

 

[LMan]

You seem to have all the information you need, you just have to decide.

have you considered a heat exchanger?

 

[latamud]

Your fan is not pulling/pushing enough cfm. Permacool has a 16" electric fan that will push/pull 2950 cfm for about $80(summit). Keeping the engine cool is important. You might be able to get away with just swapping the fan, or even just swapping to an aluminum radiator.

 

[fastback brian]

The simple upgrade is to go with a fox body setup. everything for the cooling system is easy to find and you have alot of options. I run a copper brass 3 row Modine, fox raditor hoses, moroso electric pump and a mid 90's taurus electric fan. temps never get over 150 since I only use a restrictor and not a tstat.

 

[Pathfinder65]

I installed the 24" rad with a new 4 row core. It does work great if you want to cut the rad mount etc.

Dave