65-66 Manual Trans Brake Boosters

Jay, are you useing a duel master cylinder and a brake buster on a manuea? I didn't think you could do that?

Did you have to "modify" your shock tower?

I just dry fitted that same booster w dual reservoir MC and found it hits the shock tower on my '66 convertible. I also found that once in place I would not be able to remove the reservoir cover, as the shock tower brace bracket will be in the way.

I'm planning on doing a little work to the shock tower, remove the stock braces and install an export brace. This should allow the whole thing to fit correctly, and be serviceable.

Just wondering if you found the same thing?

Scott

That's a nice setup, looks well made from the photo. But since I have an automatic transmission can someone explain the problem this part fixes?

Install of this booster in a '66 MT convertible

I thought I'd just go ahead and post a few shots of my install, since Jay wasn't able to answer my questions.

Again, this is in a manual transmission '66 convertible. Coupes and Fastbacks may not be the same. In fact your '66 manual transmission convertible may not be the same

I had to remove the stock shock tower braces, and the brackets that are spot welded on. You can see from the pictures that no way in hell was this going to fit with the stock setup. Also if you look close in the picture from above with the export brace that I had to put an indentation in the shock tower that is about 1/4" deep.

The kit lines are too short to make a horizontal loop, and the supplied pushrod seal for the firewall is for a standard round push rod, not the flat bar. I'm using the kit lines for now, but will replace all the lines when I strip the car for repaint.
I also picked up the correct pushrod seal, as eventually the supplied one will rip.

I'm also not confident the brake pedal brake light switch will work correctly, as there is very little play at the clevis. That is easily fixed though.

In order to get the proper angle for the pushrod, I have the booster installed as low as it can go. Which also helps clearance for the reservoir cover.
Clutch linkage has plenty of room.

I'm using an adjustable proportioning valve from Summit, nice quality and inexpensive.

Still have to install the front brakes ('04 13" Cobra brake kit) then bleed the whole system, to see how it's going to work. Lines are a little on the small side, so I am expecting not much better than a late model stock vehicle response. That will change when the whole shooting match gets replumbed.

All in all an easy install. It's going to be a while before I'll be on the road, probably about 6 weeks. Still have to order the wheels & tires.

Scott

Here it is plumbed up

Couldn't attach the pictures with the export brace, they are too big. But basically add about 1/2" more clearance and better access to fill the rear brake reservoir (closest to front of car).

MDJAY,
when you get this hooked up with the vacuum pump added, post a reply on how well this small booster works compared to your experiences with non-boosted and original FORD booster.
I would like to improve my car's stopping potential.
I just added carbon kevlar pads this weekend. They helped some, but there is still room for improvement.
Glad to see that there is a booster on the market now that works with manual 1st generation stangs.

Jim

That's OK

I answered them for myself. Figured I'd post in case any one else might be interested.
For a "purist" there may be an issue of removing the stock shock tower brackets, and clearancing the shock tower (unless you knew it wasn't "clearanced" from the factory you'd never even notice it).
Otherwise, it was a pretty nice install.

There is going to have to be a little more play in the hole at the end of the push bar. There isn't enough play to activate the brake light switch. I could probably get away with just removing the red bushing, but don't want to hear that metal on metal chatter. Shouldn't take more than a minute with a die grinder. This is only necessary if you have the mechanical switch. If you have a pressure switch, the fit onto the clevis pin is really nice. Elongating the hole front to rear about 1/16" should be enough, and would be easier and neater to do while on the bench.

Good luck with your install. I would suggest getting some stub lines long enough to make at least 1 horizontal loop on each line, this will take the stress of the steel lines from movement and vibration.

Scott

66Runt said:

Couldn't attach the pictures with the export brace, they are too big. But basically add about 1/2" more clearance and better access to fill the rear brake reservoir (closest to front of car).

Click to expand...

Mmmh, read your thread and im not sure if i understand this right... you mean the rear brake reservoir is that one which i marked on the Picture? (sorry, my english is not the best)

Thanks for the help Mario

Yes, the reservior for the rear circuit is usually at the front of the master cylinder, on most cars and classic mustangs.

If you are mixing non OEM parts, then whichever one holds less fluid is for the rear brakes.

Holy Resurrection!!!!!

MDJAY and 66Runt (and etc.) Have you made any progress toward completing this swap (with the manual tranny.)

I would also like to know the amount of clearance that remains between the valve cover and the brake booster. Pic would be cool.

Thanks, for the answers... my reservoir are both same size... just some theoretically thinking... when both reservoirs are same size even than one is for rear and one is for front.. to explain what i mean... you could NOT switch it like you would... is that right? Because one of the reservoir has more power than the other... is that right?

greetz Mario

I have successfully installed this kit on my 66 convertible with 5.0L EFI and Wilwood Hydraulic clutch. Note that I am no longer running the stock convertible shock tower braces. I had to use a Maier Racing brace with export brace integrated with it to clear the EFI intake.
Works great even at about 12 psig vacuum at idle.
I have about 1/4" clearance between the shock tower and master, even with an additional plate I welded in behind the brake and clutch master cylinders to beef up the firewall. The booster does hit my clutch master and is actually pushing it down some, but everything is working. I will address this if I ever pull the engine. It is very cramped and there is noway I want to tackle this unless a real problem arises. My setup is for 4 wheel discs, so the master cylinder could be a bit shorter than other kits. A friend of mine just ordered this kit and he got a mastercylinder that is aluminum with a plastic bowl. Looks cheap. The mfg indicated that they had fitment issues and changed the masters. I assume that this fitment issue deals with the original Mustang shock tower braces, but who knows...
I don't have any pictures to post. Could get some if someone really needs them.