66 mustang caster rub

Have you had your caster checked or adjusted? What are the readings? Do you have pics of your setup?

I also see you are from Cincinnati. So am I. I'm on the east side (Loveland/Maineville area). I'd be glad to take a look at it and try to help.

Yes, your camber and caster both are adjusted with shims. You will have to remove some of the back shims to kick your cast back a little.

66convert513 said:

Before I did the wheel swap my tires were already rubbing,205/70-14
I'm going to order a set of adjustable strut rods from jegs and hope that will take care of it along with and

Click to expand...

I don't think that will help you. Those rods are meant for stability of the lower control arm for cornering, stopping etc and to adjust only to make up the difference from one side to the other which the originals were a fixed length and didn't do that.
Your lower control arms are not meant to be adjusted for caster however you can adjust them slightly with these rods but it puts the bushings in a bind. The other issue is that to avoid rubbing you will need the push the lower arms rearward which consequently reduces your caster angle and like I said causes binding and will also worsen your handling.

The proper way to adjust your caster is on your upper control arm with the shims and this will also push your tire rearward and give you better handling.
Again, I also live in Cincinnati and will be glad to look at it for you. I have alignment equipment and have done several of these because these local shops don't know how to do the older cars.

Adjustable strut rods can certainly be used on the 65-66 Mustangs to dial in caster after getting it close with properl shimming of the Upper Contol Arm. As a reference, the 1967 and up Mustangs came with adjustable strut rods from the factory and caster was designed to be dialed in with the strut rods. Eccentrics are used to adjust camber, which can be adapted to the 65-66.

As @tos said, if you try to get all your caster from your strut rods, it moves your wheel forward in the fender opening, so it rubs. Also not advised because your oem LCA bushing will be pulled fwd in a position it wasn't designed to move in. The LCA bushing already moves in an arc it isn't designed for because of the strut rod's fwd anchor point anyways, and the only real solutions are in the aftermarket. The factory strut rod bushing is the source of major alignment changes during braking (or accel), and if you over tighten the clamshell to reduce this change you increase bind and risk breakage at the front.

This vid is an eye opener: Strut rod deflection in action video

The key is eliminating all that bind by getting rid of all the bushings and replacing them with bearings, spherical or otherwise components from TCP, Street or Track, Pacific Thunder, Global West, etc. Global West makes a +3 degree caster UCA, which I'm using, that get's you 3 degrees of caster from moving the upper caster axis backwards to keep the wheel more centered, and reduce your issue of rubbing the front fender lip.

If you're on a budget, contact Pacific Thunder Performance Engineering for the lowest priced HD bearing strut rods and LCA's I found, but be forewarned, he's a one man band, fellow classic mustang fan, and he builds in batches. His website often says 'sold out', until enough orders are in, then he makes them. Great quality products, nice powdercoating (my optional color shown), chromoly rod ends, all hardware included. Below is his HD lower crossmember that also includes camber lockout plates in the hardware kit. I am no way affiliated, just happy to find someone that makes affordable replacements. Here are parts I've purchased from him: