'66 Mustang Suspension Rebuild Recs.

npg3 · Oct 2, 2010

This has been a great resource....when I started this project back in 1986 when I was 16, it was a lot harder to get help.

After 20 years in Arizona heat, it always sounded like my front end was falling apart with every bump....that was 1986...imagine how it is now! I am not even sure if there are any rubber grommets left.

Another member here has been a huge help, but his car may be a bit more race/track. I would like to keep it at the stock height, but I would like a 21st Century technology suspension....smooth, quiet ride.

I did a search, but I had no definitive answer.

Thanks.

2+2GT · Oct 2, 2010

For a 21st century ride, you'll need to go to your local Ford dealer.

You can, however, do a lot to the car you have, starting with replacement of all worn suspension parts, and incorporating the "Arning/Shelby drop". It'll improve your handling more than any other single change. You'll need GT-rate springs, gas shocks, and a 1" front sway bar.
http://site.cobranda.com/tech/aarms.pdf

rbohm · Oct 2, 2010

you have plenty of options here;

1: stock rebuild. solid reliable, but kind of boring.

2: modified stock suspension, not a bad choice, and it doesnt require any more work than a stock rebuild does.

3: suspension swap, depending on the one you choose, you can have a lot of work ahead of you. you have a few choices here as well

a: a mustang ll suspension swap. a lot of work, but you can eliminate the shock towers

b: a strut suspension swap, there are a few places that carry this swap as well. you can thin out the shock towers, but you still need them.

3: a custom suspension swap from a place like griggs racing.

it depends on what you want from the car, if you are looking for a daily driver with a decent ride, and decent handling, then i suggest the modified stock suspension. its hard to beat for the street.

npg3 · Oct 3, 2010

Well, since I live in IL now, the car will be a weekend driver, a cruiser on a nice night, and driven to small car shows in the area (just for fun). So, anything I get will be an improvement over the rattle, clank, clunk, and JINGLE JANGLE that I have now....I have thought of:

Some of these parts in stock height:

Mustang Parts from Mustangs Plus :: --Kits-- :: Suspension Kits :: Grab-A-Trak® Spring and Handling Kits :: 1967-70 Grab-A-Trak® Spring and Handling Kit

Or getting some parts from:

Opentracker Racing Products - Products Page

This was a good thread:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/736084-66-mustang-front-suspension-rebuild.html

Thanks for the input so far.

2+2GT · Oct 3, 2010

npg3 said:
So, anything I get will be an improvement over the rattle, clank, clunk, and JINGLE JANGLE that I have now....

Bear in mind even a stone-stock rebuild will fix that. These cars made no such noises when new.

Unless you plan to drive the car competitively, you want to keep it simple. It's really easy to read a bunch of magazines and start planning massive modifications you don't need, and spend a bunch of money you could use elsewhere.

npg3 · Oct 3, 2010

2+2GT said:
Bear in mind even a stone-stock rebuild will fix that. These cars made no such noises when new.

Unless you plan to drive the car competitively, you want to keep it simple. It's really easy to read a bunch of magazines and start planning massive modifications you don't need, and spend a bunch of money you could use elsewhere.

Thanks....that is what I needed to hear. I remember in high school....mid-80's, I had a coupe and my friend had a '66 2+2, and his car rode so well and so quietly....that is all I ever wanted.

"2+2GT" Which rebuild kit do you like...which company? Thank you.

2+2GT · Oct 3, 2010

I have the Performance Handling Suspension kit from Glazier Nolan. GT springs front and rear, 1" front bar, KYB shocks (the kit comes with the GR2, I upgraded to the Gas-A-Just), and the "Arning/Shelby drop". Since I have a 4-speed, I also added Traction Masters to eliminate wheel hop. Real ones, not the cheaper fakes. Even with 14x5 styled steel wheels, and 205/70R14 tires, this combination rides well, and corners and responds beautifully.

rbohm · Oct 3, 2010

2+2GT said:
I have the Performance Handling Suspension kit from Glazier Nolan. GT springs front and rear, 1" front bar, KYB shocks (the kit comes with the GR2, I upgraded to the Gas-A-Just), and the "Arning/Shelby drop". Since I have a 4-speed, I also added Traction Masters to eliminate wheel hop. Real ones, not the cheaper fakes. Even with 14x5 styled steel wheels, and 205/70R14 tires, this combination rides well, and corners and responds beautifully.

this is a great set up for a street driven car, even one that is a daily driver.

npg3 · Oct 3, 2010

1) Is that set-up stock height?

My goal is to have a great stance....great stock-looking stance with Styled Steel wheels.

Also, another quick question...I am thinking of going white letter or dual red band with the SS wheels
2) Is 205/70R14 the ideal tire size...nice ride but also sporty looking? I still have the thin/skinny bias ply tires on it.

2+2GT · Oct 3, 2010

npg3 said:
1) Is that set-up stock height?

My goal is to have a great stance....great stock-looking stance with Styled Steel wheels.

Also, another quick question...I am thinking of going white letter or dual red band with the SS wheels
2) Is 205/70R14 the ideal tire size...nice ride but also sporty looking? I still have the thin/skinny bias ply tires on it.

Stance will be stock, not saggy, and the suspension will lower the front about 5/8". This will be the same stance as a 65 GT350.

This has those tires:

Az Pete · Oct 3, 2010

FYI, the OP contacted me about the way the car in my sig. sits. This is the list of items it has to compare to others. The ride is great, cornering is level, and the look is pretty good.

[/IMG]
• Ford Mustang “K” code 9" w/Traction-Lok 3.50:1 gears installed
• OpenTracker Racing roller spring perches
• OpenTracker Racing roller upper control arms
• Street Or Track adjustable, rollerized strut rods
• Vario-centric camber kit (eliminates '65/'66 front shims)
• Aadco 1” front sway bar
• 620# front springs, lowered 1" (Arning Drop)
• Grab-A-Trak 4.5 leaf mid-eye rear leaf springs
• KYB GasAjust shocks
• American Racing 15x7 Torque-Thrust D's with Yokahama 205/60/15 front /225/60/15 rear tires

npg3 · Oct 4, 2010

Cars look great....after 24 years, I am really excited about finishing (or at least getting on) with the project.

I think I like it either even/level front and back or slightly lower in the back.

I spoke with the spring shop that will be doing the install, and he said, in his 30+ years of experience, people either buy cheap kits, or they go over the top, or they are somewhere in the middle...some of the parts are great, but the other parts are bot desireable. I think I will take all of your advice here. I will try to put a kit together on my own by buying from multiple sources like many of you have seemed to do.

Az Pete · Oct 4, 2010

As a reference point, my '66 measures 24 1/4" in the front and 26 1/2" in the rear at the center of the wheel well opening. This gives you a comparable number to work with.

npg3 · Oct 4, 2010

I just got off of the phone with Opentracker:

We are thinking this for a modified stock suspension:
-Opentracker roller spring perches
-Opentracker upper and lower control arms
-Front GT springs
-1" front sway bar
-Grab-A-Trak rear shocks and KYB Gas-Ajust front shocks
-Strut rod bushings
-Poly front srping bushings

I also spoke with Glazier-Nolan...their rebuild option was completely different, but it was about the same price. Their set-up included rear leafs and coils, but the OT system did not (my spring guy can rebuild the rear springs). G-N was missing the spring perches, the front coils...

I am leaning towards ridding myself of the power steering on my car. They said with the right front end build, there is no need for power steering. To be honest, I think I have rebuilt that power ram about 5x...I am so sick of that thing leaking all over the place and having that boot rip up.

If so, I may do their steering rebuild kit....I would imagine all of the rubber on my idler arms, etc are pretty beat after 44 years. If the front end is getting down, I should probably just have the steering done at the same time.

I also ordered the FPA ceramic coated Tri-Y headers and they will match up with a Waldron Arvinode Exhaust:

YouTube - Waldron's Reproduction of the 65 Mustang "Arvinode" exhaust

I think that will do it for 2010....oh wait...I need a new gas tank too

2+2GT · Oct 4, 2010

npg3 said:
I am leaning towards ridding myself of the power steering on my car. They said with the right front end build, there is no need for power steering. To be honest, I think I have rebuilt that power ram about 5x...I am so sick of that thing leaking all over the place and having that boot rip up.

The PS holds up pretty well when rebuilt and installed properly, much of that is likely no fault of yours, no doubt you were never sold new tube seats, for example, and these MUST be installed or it will leak. You also HAVE to install the clamp around the valve assy or it WILL leak, you were probably not told this, either. And substandard hoses are the kiss of death. Properly done, this system will last 20 years.

That said, I run manual 4-turn steering on my 66, because I can, and the "feel" is excellent. Be careful though, I'm running 205/70R14 tires, if you go superwide, you'll have a real bear in parking lots. Of course, you'll develop forearms like Popeye without having to go to the gym…

npg3 · Oct 4, 2010

Your 2+2 is gorgeous by the way...love the colors. Is that a frame-off concourse car? I see a trailer for it.

Az Pete · Oct 4, 2010

Sounds like a good start on the suspension. One thing to consider on the rear leaf springs is the eye position in the rear. They now do three positions, reverse, mid and stock. The reverse and mid eyes will lower the car a bit with out a ride problem. Mine has mid eye on it.

2+2GT · Oct 4, 2010

npg3 said:
I also spoke with Glazier-Nolan...their rebuild option was completely different, but it was about the same price. Their set-up included rear leafs and coils, but the OT system did not (my spring guy can rebuild the rear springs). G-N was missing the spring perches, the front coils...

Hmmm… I'm confused, you say the GN kit included "leafs and coils", but then you say [it's missing] the front coils... I looked up their catalog and their kit includes GT front and rear springs.

You say your guy can rebuild the rear springs. If they are sagging, this will require annealing, re-arching, and heat treating. This is far more expensive than new springs, and is usually done only to something rare and not available new, like first generation Corvette grooved springs.

npg3 · Oct 4, 2010

This is the list that G-N sent me....the one I was referring to...I thought it was incomplete as well. No front coils? Unless it is $72 for the front and rear.

REAR LEAF SPRING x2
64-73 REAR SHACKLE KIT x2
64-67 EYE BOLT x2
REAR SPRNG U BOLT x4
64½-73 REAR SPRING KIT x1
64-73 V8 COIL SPRING x1 @ $71.96
AR COIL SPRING INSULATOR x2
64-66 REPRO UP CONT ARM x2
64-66 LW R CNTRL ARM-concour x2
65-73 SPRING SADDLE x2
65-66 FRNT SUSPN BMPR x2
64½-70 KYB G2 FR SHOCK x2
64½-73 KYB G2 RR SHOCK x2
65-66 1" FRONT SW AY BAR x1
Total Qty Ordered: 27

BTW....I agree with you about just getting new rear leafs. I thought the same thing after talking with him. I do not think he knew my intentions...I think he works with a lot of guys that want to retain as much originality as possible....not me...I want new springs!

2+2GT · Oct 5, 2010

npg3 said:
This is the list that G-N sent me....the one I was referring to...I thought it was incomplete as well. No front coils? Unless it is $72 for the front and rear.

REAR LEAF SPRING x2
64-73 REAR SHACKLE KIT x2
64-67 EYE BOLT x2
REAR SPRNG U BOLT x4
64½-73 REAR SPRING KIT x1
64-73 V8 COIL SPRING x1 @ $71.96
AR COIL SPRING INSULATOR x2
64-66 REPRO UP CONT ARM x2
64-66 LW R CNTRL ARM-concour x2
65-73 SPRING SADDLE x2
65-66 FRNT SUSPN BMPR x2
64½-70 KYB G2 FR SHOCK x2
64½-73 KYB G2 RR SHOCK x2
65-66 1" FRONT SW AY BAR x1
Total Qty Ordered: 27

BTW....I agree with you about just getting new rear leafs. I thought the same thing after talking with him. I do not think he knew my intentions...I think he works with a lot of guys that want to retain as much originality as possible....not me...I want new springs!

I have highlighted the front coil springs in red. The rear leafs, of course, are on the first line.

To simplify the above list, I read it as:

REAR leaf springs
REAR leaf spring SHACKLE KITs
REAR leaf spring EYE BOLTs
REAR SPRiNG U BOLTs
V8 front COIL SPRINGs
front COIL SPRING INSULATORs
UPper CONTrol ARMs
LoWeR CNTRL ARMs
SPRING SADDLEs
FRoNT SUSPensioN BuMPeRs
KYB Gr2 FRont SHOCKs
KYB Gr2 ReaR SHOCKs
1" FRONT SWAY BAR

So his list does include all new GT springs. I was confused, since a "performance handling kit", by definition, would have to include all new springs.

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