67 Super Snake Project

#21
Dyno Sheets

Got the dyno sheets from the engine builder. 746HP & 790 FPTorque.

15012290020.jpg


15011163221.jpg


Edit: Engine was delayed!
 
#26
67FBack said:
Yeah, it is true. I got all the emblems and parts ordered early.
Click to expand...
Ya know...when he made those Chargers and Omnis back in 1982 I raised my eyebrows...things got sadder and sadder as the '80s wore on...then the new "authentic" VINs on Kit-Cobras...then the whole Eleanwhore/Sanderson thing...then "Ole Shel" signing every glove compartment door within a thousand miles of his sad fat old arse...now this?

WTF?

I'd say F him entirely but one of my friends is buying a Blue 2007 which I'll get to drive...so...:rolleyes:
 
#28
Is epoxy primer the typical first coat after the car is blasted? I have a compressor/paint gun - so I was thinking about having the car brougth directly to me after the blasting to get painted. Is there anything else you have to do to prep the metal?

thanks
 
#29
Carroll Shelby

Edbert said:
Ya know...when he made those Chargers and Omnis back in 1982 I raised my eyebrows...things got sadder and sadder as the '80s wore on...then the new "authentic" VINs on Kit-Cobras...then the whole Eleanwhore/Sanderson thing...then "Ole Shel" signing every glove compartment door within a thousand miles of his sad fat old arse...now this?

WTF?

I'd say F him entirely but one of my friends is buying a Blue 2007 which I'll get to drive...so...:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

I could be bitter about his lack of integity, but I think he is trying to do some good things,though. Like doing charitable work for the children's foundation by signing these items. (I paid $200 for one).

I think some of the other things are coming from the new owners of the Shelby name now. If they continue to dilute the name its value can diminish. But at least the name is going back on mustangs now!
 
#30
Media Blasting

stangonline said:
What did your guy use for blasting? I've got a guy here who uses walnut shells for $800 or baking soda for about $1100
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He used walnut shells at first, and then changed to aluminum oxide (harsher material) for some of the tougher sound deadening material that was on the newer floor pans.

I think my guy "undercharged" me. The material was over $10 a bag and he used over 20 bags in one afternoon.

So $800-$1100 does not sound too out of line. The bad thing is, only he can tell which one you should ask for, and only after he starts the process. If your metal is too thin, or too rusted, then you should change to the lighter abrasion material (soda).
 
#31
stangonline said:
Is epoxy primer the typical first coat after the car is blasted? I have a compressor/paint gun - so I was thinking about having the car brougth directly to me after the blasting to get painted. Is there anything else you have to do to prep the metal?

thanks
Click to expand...

Since the car is supposedly in pristine condition, this is probably the best time to lay down a good coat of epoxy primer. Now other people have different opinions. And each has their merit.

But if the media guy used a compressor with a good oil removal system, then your metal should be almost ready for primer. You will need to spend a lot of time trying to remove the sand from all the crevasses of the car. And you will not get it all.

I used my small compressor, and 3 quarts of primer.

If you have any rust started, then you might want to rub it down or spray it with some Ospho (nasty stuff). Do not leave it on there. It needs to be washed off, regardless of what they say. I would not use it if I didn't need hav to. Best to have everything ready for when your car returns. And don't let the car set any amount of time before you paint.
 
#34
67FBack said:
It added 3-4" of clearance.

I should be able to go with a 17x11 wheel and a BF Goodrich 315/35/ZR17 tire as long as I get the correct wheel offset.
Click to expand...
Hmmm. I wonder if early mustangs are different than the 69-70, :shrug: because if did what you have pictured to my '70 the most I would get (by my measurements) is about 2 inches. I'm going to move the frame rails in from about the point where the jounce bumper mounts all the way to the back of the car. That should get me 3 inches.
 
#37
Do you have any pictures of the inner fender bracketry up top that has been modified as a result of the mini tub? I am doing the same thing to my fastback this week, to fit my Eagle F1's 315's in the back with no worries
 
#38
lauras70mach1 said:
Hmmm. I wonder if early mustangs are different than the 69-70, :shrug:
Click to expand...
The inner chassis was virtually unchanged from 67-70. You are thinking of the 65/66, they were much different, at least by comparison. Most major differences are dimensional, but some were structural.
 
#39
68FBJJZ109 said:
Do you have any pictures of the inner fender bracketry up top that has been modified as a result of the mini tub? I am doing the same thing to my fastback this week, to fit my Eagle F1's 315's in the back with no worries
Click to expand...

I took my time when cutting out the old inner fender, and then ground the old inner brackets to fit the new inner fender. Welding the rear bracket, lower fender to frame/floor. Then I used the metal I cut off the new inner fender to weld to the upper area. Sorry about the poor picture quality.

15515155772.jpg
 
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