'68 coupe; removing door window regulator?

[65ShelbyClone]

Better than a year ago my passenger window jammed, fortunately in the closed position. Today I thought I would try to see what got stuck, but it turned into a hassle as these "quick" projects usually do. After drilling out the three screws that hold the window rail onto the regulator track, I got the regulator and arms loose inside the door. The problem is that I don't know that trick for getting all that junk out through the access holes. Both the factory service and Haynes manuals simply say "remove the regulator." Do I have to take some of the scissor arms off or something? There is not a lot of room to wrestle that stuff around.

 

[hhead]

A piece of wood or the same, prop the window in the full up position. Place the wood, the farthest rear that you can. Mainly, the furthest forward you slide the regulator, will allow the rear roller to just clear the hole. When reinstalling. I like to put the channel guide on the rollers, after putting the regulator in the door.

 

[2+2GT]

Better than a year ago my passenger window jammed, fortunately in the closed position. Today I thought I would try to see what got stuck, but it turned into a hassle as these "quick" projects usually do. After drilling out the three screws that hold the window rail onto the regulator track, I got the regulator and arms loose inside the door. The problem is that I don't know that trick for getting all that junk out through the access holes. Both the factory service and Haynes manuals simply say "remove the regulator." Do I have to take some of the scissor arms off or something? There is not a lot of room to wrestle that stuff around.

Step 1) Raise window
Step 2) Use a large screwdriver through door to hold window up.
Step 3) Remove bolts attaching regulator to door.
Step 4) Slide regulator off of door track, and out of door through large hole at lower rear.
Step 5) Assembly is reverse.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

1.) Did that.
2.) Did that.
3.) Did that.
4.) This is where I got stuck. The regulator and scissor-looking assembly is laying loose in the bottom the door, but I can't seem to wrestle it far enough forward to get the equalizer end through the access hole. I figure I'm doing something wrong, but still not sure what.

 

[2+2GT]

This is where I got stuck. The regulator and scissor-looking assembly is laying loose in the bottom the door, but I can't seem to wrestle it far enough forward to get the equalizer end through the access hole. I figure I'm doing something wrong, but still not sure what.

Dunno what to tell you. Once the riser is laying in the bottom of the door, I just pick it up and slide it out. The holes are pretty big:

 

[65ShelbyClone]

Thanks everyone. I got it figured out once I propped the glass up and got two hand in there to move the regulator around.

I was surprised how rotten the grease had become in 41 years. I literally had to chisel some of it out, the rest was reminiscent of asphalt. I found out why the window wouldn't roll down: the one-way clutch had corroded and locked up(the putty-like grease didn't help either). After a thorough cleaning and liberal greasing, I put it back together with some 8-32 cap screws and now it's smooth and quiet again. I would have buttoned it up already, but the car is now in the sun and it's 100+ outside....

That's a nice Shelby, BTW.

 

[CarFreakGT]

I'm glad you asked this, clone. I was having the same problem w/ my 68. Getting everything back in is the problem. Now, you've motivated me to get back to it. End of this week or beginning of next, I'll be on it.

 

[CarFreakGT]

BTW, clone, I had to laugh at your mention of the Haynes manual. I love the common 'Remove the 'x'" directions, turning 5 steps into 1. LOL

 

[65ShelbyClone]

Actually, I was talking about the factory 1968 service manual from Ford, but the Haynes manual says the same thing. Haynes writers also like to completely omit reassembly sections and say "installation is the reverse of removal," even if it actually is not. They also completely left out the manual transmission section because "they are complex and should be serviced by professionals."



Anyway, I figure sometime this week I'll start refurbishing the driver's side now that I know how to do it. Fortunately it still works, but is stiff to roll up, so I have to help it along. It, too, undoubtedly has ancient rock-hard grease that's been there since December 1967.

I forgot to mention that I used some general purpose Mobil synthetic grease. I picked it because it is soft, but a little more waxy than most and I figure it won't attract dirt as fast. It's kind of a pinkish red color. I can't find reference to it anywhere online, though, except for the UPC code.

 

[Rusty67]

Aren't you supposed to use a telfon grease for window tracks ?

 

[65ShelbyClone]

Haven't heard that before.

 

[Rusty67]

I would imagine any petrolium based grease would be in danger of eating the plastic rollers or the rubber seals ? When ever I take modern car pannels apart, I always see white grease in the window track areas.

 

[2+2GT]

Actually, I was talking about the factory 1968 service manual from Ford, but the Haynes manual says the same thing. Haynes writers also like to completely omit reassembly sections and say "installation is the reverse of removal," even if it actually is not. They also completely left out the manual transmission section because "they are complex and should be serviced by professionals."

Interesting, they sell you a book and insult you. The Ford manual gives the trans rebuild info, even for automatics, and you can decide for yourself.

 

[65ShelbyClone]

I would imagine any petrolium based grease would be in danger of eating the plastic rollers or the rubber seals ? When ever I take modern car pannels apart, I always see white grease in the window track areas.

It's probably a white lithium grease, but most lithium greases I know of use a petroleum-based carrier. It's not a big deal because the rollers, at least the originals in my car, are Nylon and Nylon is resistant to a lot of petrochemicals. Some need to be replaced anyway. I'm just buying time.

Interesting, they sell you a book and insult you. The Ford manual gives the trans rebuild info, even for automatics, and you can decide for yourself.

It's not just the Haynes Mustang manuals; it's the same in the Explorer and Ranger books too. I think the FSM covers every transmission available in the Comet/Cougar/Fairlane/Falcon/Montego/Mustang models for 1968.

 

[hhead]

When I did the Nu Relics kit. It specifically said NOT to use white lithium. But to use hi temp disc brake grease.