Progress Thread 6r80 coyote swapped pig

eighty5fox said:

its in was not easy everything is is very tight fit have little more to do

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Woohoo! BIG step there man.

I bet you are doing the victory dance right about now.

Nice to see Coyote swaps happening without the huge expense... that said, you mentioned earlier you want to get into road racing. Are you planning to put at least power steering back on it or power breaks at some point later? Seems like a lot of work around a road course.

Just bend the lines into tighter 90's?

Impressive build you have going.

What did you get from Dakota Digital? I talked to them 3 or 4 years ago about a Coyote swap but they didn't have anything that would work with what was planned. Maybe that's changed?

FYI on the control pack you're still waiting on. It is set up for both standard Ford Electronic Power Assisted Steering (EPAS) and the AiM EPAS for racing. This info might help when you go looking for your power steering. Ford says the AiM steering is not for street use but I know people that have done it with no problems. The steering ratio is quick and takes getting use to.

You mentioned a while back picking up a 99/00 IRS and that you were changing everything. Again FYI for the future but here in the Detroit area, Columbus and Cleveland areas also--maybe shops everywhere, there are a number of shops that get cars straight in from the dealer to build for racing. They often pull the entire rear end sub assembly and offer them for sale. There are a lot of them around and many have been sitting around for years and price is usually negotiable. I've seen a newer assembly with Boss 14" Brembo brakes, 3.73 gear and a Torsen differential sell for less than $3k. Here's an example from a shop that puts their pulls on line. Bear in mind they use a stock picture but the condition isn't unusual.

https://www.kohrmotorsports.com/product-category/clearance-garage-sale/clearance-drivetrain/

If you don't mind my asking, if you have a wife what does she have to say about all of your plan changes? Someone mentioned envy over a spoiler but this is what I'd envy.

Noobz347 said:

Going out on a limb but @CarMichael Angelo or @xecute might have leads to some right hand drive Aussie stuff.

Question: Is that as low as you can get that engine to sit? Have you considered installing plates between the body and K-member to drop it down some more?

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You don't need no stinking RH drive stuff,...you only need google, and a willingness to use it.
the possibilities when checking the aftermarket options ( I.e. "Strange, Wilwood, Aerospace,) open right the hell up...

I could understand this mental block if, say the person was..........Ohhh...90.

This took exactly one minute to find.

Considering how you are budgeting your build, there's EBay.

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=370872174152

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=142081379104

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=221944662056

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=322029348613

Sistine Chapel Fast Track ....Pages 366 and about 376.


Australian Left Hand Drive V10 2003 Mustang Cobra






and Group A Mustangs used in Europe and Australia and New Zealand used German homologated Escort and Capri parts via SVO'sMichael Kranefuss, father of the IMSA Capri , GTP Mustangs and SVO Mustang.


six_sigma, read every 12th or 13th word...

master
circuit
fluid-tanks
reinforced-lines




Hogg off your brake booster entirely.

adjustable pedal box with dual master cylinder Triton balance bar, just like the World Rallye Escorts and circuit Zakspeed BDA racers.




See http://www.nzmustang.com/Images/History/Racecars/pinepac1.htm

Twin master cylinders are in the cabin, with the fluid-tanks arranged whereever easiest in the engine bay, and supplied by reinforced-lines





If you "no like", try a stock no power brake master from a 1978-1980 non power brake Fox 2.3 or 3.3.



And buy a PBR VH40, and mount it under the front fender.

You can down size the stock one, or delete, and then remote mount the second. There are VH24, VH44 boosters as well, and they are time honoured devices that work great if you can ensure you don't have residual pressure on the rear brake disc's.









https://www.onlineautoparts.com.au/...ower-Booster-Disc-Drum-with-Bracket/ZPN-16668

Used on Right Hand Drive Falcon 289 GT's and old Valiants, and Jag IRS and IFS conversions.

Stock MGB GT Lockheed single cylinder disc brake booster

I've used it on Hilman Hunters, my 1959 Vauxhall Cresta PADX, and they are great for pedal weight reduction




Old cars are still around. A good VH40 is cheap and good valve for 20 bux, and another cost for the rekit. US market MGB's and "Morose" Marinas from Canada are great candidates for finding one. So are Mk1/2 Mini Cooper S's.