71-73 Trunk tension Question

HHStang

New Member
May 15, 2003
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Coastal SC
I'm putting together a car I took apart a year ago and can't remember how the tensioner was set up.

The convertible has a rear wing or spoiler and on the 2nd setting is still set too light to raise trunk and wing. How can I get spring to 3rd setting without killing myself or should I use a 2nd spring?

Thanks for help...
 
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Putting both springs on the third notch on my 73 Trunk lid (with wing) works nicely. Getting them there was a bit tricky. It was a few years ago, but I recall tywrapping the long end of the spring to a metal rod such that it could be levered onto the trunklid bracket notch without the lever slipping off.

You should have one spring for each side.
 
Thanks man. I need to dig arround and find the other spring I guess. I have a coupe parts car and it only had one. I assumed the convertible had one, but guess I'm wrong. Dang that thing was a b**** to set.
 
There's also an odd rubber grommet that wedges between the 2 springs where they cross at the center of the trunk. I guess it's just there to keep the springs from rubbing together.

Edit: It's possible that coupes and verts without wings only have one since the trunk lids are smaller. (I can check later). You may be able to get away with one spring each side located on the second notch, but that didn't work for my Mach trunk lid.
 
Here's a Pic:

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Thanks. I guess I must have that grommet too somewhere. The body shop did a great job disassembling, but not so great assembling. After 6 months, I just wanted the car back and didn't want to wait for assembly.
 
My 72 vert (with wing) has only one spring. I'm pretty sure the wing was added by a PO. (And the one spring was correct)
I need the 2nd spring because there is not enough tension in the 2nd location, if I put it in the 3rd slot it will hold the lid up fine but it also puts too much tension on the one side so that the lid does not close evenly.
So my question. Are both springs the same or is there a left and a right?
Thanks...Paul
 
Okay, so we woke up today determined to get the 2nd spring on. My buddy helping me just left in search of stitches from a cut on his lip when this thing let loose. We both have a couple other cuts on hands. Is there a tool to do this?
 
HHStang said:
Okay, so we woke up today determined to get the 2nd spring on. My buddy helping me just left in search of stitches from a cut on his lip when this thing let loose. We both have a couple other cuts on hands. Is there a tool to do this?
:eek: That sucks! My 72 Shop manual doesn't mention anything about special tools to do this. Now that I look at the manual I see that it identifies a Left Torsion Bar (44891) and Right Torsion Bar (44890) and states the Right one has a yellow color code on the end. Neither of mine are color coded and they look identical :shrug: Here are the instructions verbatim as written in the 72 shop manual: (though they don't make logical sense to me)

Removal:
1. Open the luggage compartment door and support in the open position.
2. Disconnect the torsion bar from the adjustment notches.
3. Disconnect the opposite end of the torsion bar from the hinge and remove the bar from the vehicle.

Installation:
The right hinge torsion bar is identified by a yellow color code on the hinge end of the torsion bar.
1. Insert the torsion bar through the slot in the hinge or mounting bracket and position to the hinge.
2. Insert opposite end of the torsion bar in the slot on the hinge mounting bracket. Then, position the end of the torsion bar in one of the adjustment notches.
3. Remove the support from the luggage compartment door and check the adjustment of the torsion bars.
 
Thanks, though the instructions mention nothing about swearing or bodily harm. I did get it in this afternoon and it took about 3 minutes. I took a 1" piece of hollow bar stock, ten inches or so long and cut a 3" slit down the center of one side. I put adjustment side in first, vice gripped it in to not slip, inserted long side of rod into the slit with an inch or so hanging out, tie wrapped (six or so) to hold it there, twisted arround and inserted into hole. The "slitted tool" made the difference.