8.8" vs 9"

Hack · Sep 27, 2005

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=560659&highlight=rear+end+weight

I have an 8.8 and a small bearing 9 inch rear end in my garage. The 8.8 is Fox Mustang size and the 9 inch fits a '67 Mustang. The 8.8 weighs 155 pounds. The 9 inch weighs 149 pounds. This is with axles but without fluid or brakes.

Large bearing 9 inch rears might be heavier than 8.8s but I'd say that an 8.8 and a small bearing 9 inch essentially weigh the same amount. I personally would choose an 8.8 because they are cheap and readily available, but cost is usually my number one concern.

gzminiz · Sep 27, 2005

pictures of the 9 for $20

here it is, i am planning on picking it up tonight if it will work. Any idea if it is a small bearing or how to tell? Will the drum brakes be an issue if I am planning on going with disc brakes?

Edbert · Sep 27, 2005

gzminiz said:
here it is, i am planning on picking it up tonight if it will work. Any idea if it is a small bearing or how to tell? Will the drum brakes be an issue if I am planning on going with disc brakes?

I cannot tell for sure without seeing the flange on the ends (where the brakes are). Whatever it is it is not from a Mustang, and probably not from a car. Looks similar to the large bearing axle i have out of a Bronco, with the various flanges. That is going to take a lot of work, which will cost more than a blown-9 is worth unless you plan on doing the labor yourself.

gzminiz · Sep 27, 2005

It is from a 73 mecury marquis. Depending on what labor i would do it myself. But I am guessing maybe I would be better off grabbing an 8.8, replacing the axles and getting c-clip eliminators. I found some rock crawling site with a 8.8 from an explorer for $750 new (just an example). Summitt has new superior axles for like $100 and morser c-clip eliminators for $125. I think I will go that route instead.

Edbert · Sep 27, 2005

A Marquis eh? I'm willing to bet it is too long for a Stang. So you are looking at cutting the tubes, welding on new flanges, cutting all the braketry off, welding on new spring perches, then buying a complete chunk (the one in that pic is toast) and axles, then you still need brakes.

I was lucky to find a cheap 9 that bolted right into my Stang. I'd go for a bolt-in 9 first choice, but I'd take a 31splined, track-lok, and disc brake equipped 8.8 from a Ranger/Explorer second choice over a nearly custom 9 (for cost reasons).

brianj5600 · Sep 27, 2005

If you go 8.8 and buying axles anyway, get them set up for 9" ends. C-clip elims are known for seepage. It would not add much total and would be a much better set up.

gzminiz · Sep 27, 2005

not sure what you are suggesting, should i buy 9" axles? What else would I need?

SitDown · Sep 27, 2005

brianj5600 said:
C-clip elims are known for seepage

C clip elims do have a bad rep, but mostly result of a half ass installs. Ive run them on my street car for several years now without any leaks. Weld on housing ends are also an option...

i run a 9" in my 65, so i dont hold much bias, just think the 8.8s can hold plenty and dont eat up as much power.

brianj5600 · Sep 27, 2005

A few companies, Moser and Strange anyway, make axles for 8.8s that use 9" ends. You have to change the housing ends to use them, but it is better than c-clip elims. Mine still has clips on the axles. I don't plan on breaking them with a 3.08 and a C4 trans. When I buy 31spl axles, I'll convert to 9" ends.

ratio411 · Sep 28, 2005

rbohm said:
actually the 8.8 is quite a bit lighter than the 9" rear...

I have read/heard from many good sources that the 8.8 is the same or even heavier than the 9". The 9" is only slightly heavier than the 8", believe it or not. 2 or 3 lbs for the housing and 8 for the chunk. The 28 spline axles are the same and not known for breaking under most conditions.
8.8 is weaker, but can be made almost as strong with some money thrown at it.
The 8.8 needs to be re-engineered in a few aspects to fit our cars.

The way to a cheap 9" is:
Get a junkyard housing. No matter what it fits. Cheaper the better.
Cut the axle tubes off.
Weld your 8" axle tubes on.
Use your 28 spline axles from your 8"
Set up a 28 spline chunk.
Now you have an axle that will stand up to a lot of abuse.
And it bolts right in!

Secret: 65-68 Stang HiPo 9" rears were made this way. Supposed to be Shelby's idea as Ford had not yet engineered a 9" for the Stang.

Dave

Edit: Forgot to mention the late model Exploder discs can be added to your 9" too. They shave some weight off drums, but are way lighter than say a Versilles rear disc set-up. That swap that is so popular is VERY heavy.

Edbert · Sep 28, 2005

ratio411 said:
Secret: 65-68 Stang HiPo 9" rears were made this way. Supposed to be Shelby's idea as Ford had not yet engineered a 9" for the Stang.

I think that is true for 65-66. 67-68 Stang-9s are identical to 69-70 Stang-9s (and Cougars of course).

ratio411 · Sep 28, 2005

Edbert said:
I think that is true for 65-66. 67-68 Stang-9s are identical to 69-70 Stang-9s (and Cougars of course).

You're probably right now that I think about it.
Maybe it was just 2 years. Once they got the FE in there, they had to make a dedicated part I'm sure.

brianj5600 · Sep 28, 2005

If you are talking about using tapered axles from an 8", I would not. They will break if you abuse them even a little. Been there, done that.

thehueypilot · Sep 28, 2005

I changed from an 8" to a 9" (for strength mainly) and the increase in weight and increase in rotating mass negatively effected my ET just slightly. I thought about the 8.8 and asked the experts at Currie and they recommended the 9" for longer life against high torque output. They said the 8.8 would cost a lot more than a 9" to be built to handle higher torque.

brianj5600 · Sep 28, 2005

How much more than $2000? Currie got really rich off 9"s. You are not the first peron I've heard slowed down switching to a 9". Other than a girdle, axles and ends, under $1000, what does an 8.8 need? How much do you have in your 9"?

96 DOHC Cobra · Sep 29, 2005

If you have deep pockets or extremely good luck finding deals, I'd say go with the 9" rear. If you're like the other 99% of us, the Explorer 8.8 is a better option. These are practically everywhere now and can be bought cheap. I have a couple for sale in the Classifieds section. I had them done to see if it would work okay and to see if there was any interest in them. I think they turned out cool. Here's what I did and how much it cost. Keep in mind that I bought most of the parts at wrecking yard 1/2 price sales. The prices for parts and costs of services may vary in your area. Also, you could save a few bucks if you know how to do your own welding.

PARTS
Explorer 8.8 rearend (w/ 3.73s & 31 spline traction lok)... $100
Donor 9" housing (for harvesting ends off of)... $40
Donor 9" 31 spline axles... $50 pair
SERVICES
Shorten housing (adding 9" ends) and cut/respline donor axles... $225
Remove Explorer housing brackets, weld tubes, weld on new leaf spring mounting plates... $100

So all total, it cost me just over $500 to make one up. I SERIOUSLY doubt someone could duplicate this setup (3.73s and 31 spline traction lok) in a 9" for a 65-66 Mustang for the same kind of money.

Edbert · Sep 29, 2005

96 DOHC Cobra said:
So all total, it cost me just over $500 to make one up. I SERIOUSLY doubt someone could duplicate this setup (3.73s and 31 spline traction lok) in a 9" for a 65-66 Mustang for the same kind of money.

Agreed, having disc brakes already on it, and not having to have the axles and tubes narrowed makes it a no-contest price-wise.

Currie wanted $2,645 for the 9 I wanted, I got mine for about half that, but more than twice the $500 you paid.

thehueypilot · Sep 29, 2005

brianj5600 said:
How much more than $2000? Currie got really rich off 9"s. You are not the first peron I've heard slowed down switching to a 9". Other than a girdle, axles and ends, under $1000, what does an 8.8 need? How much do you have in your 9"?

About 3k......with all the bells and whistles. 4:11 w/Detroit Locker, 31 spline axles, Explorer Disc Brakes, Powder Coated, Drain Plug installed, special yoke to fit my current drive shaft, ready to bolt in.

gzminiz · Jul 7, 2006

bring this one back from the dead...

96 DOHC Cobra (or anyone who knows) what year exploder did you use or what one works best for the swap? Any one in phoenix know of a good place to grab an exploder rear?

I am thinking about going the strange route with the housing ends and axles.

Thanks

Thanks

D.Hearne · Jul 7, 2006

ratio411 said:
Secret: 65-68 Stang HiPo 9" rears were made this way. Supposed to be Shelby's idea as Ford had not yet engineered a 9" for the Stang.

Dave

Not true Dave. The 57-59 Ford 9" rear is an exact bolt in forthe 65-66 Stangs. That's the housing the Shelbys and Hi-po Stangs used.

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