'87 GT Grinds going into 2nd gear only...

87GT5SPD

New Member
Jun 7, 2009
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I would just like to say hi to everyone here first as I just bought the first mustang I have had in awhile and joined here hoping to be able to fix it up some. The car is a 1987 GT 5.0 5 speed hatchback. It has a few issues that need to be worked out starting with the transmission.

When I drive it down the road it is fine going into and out of 1st gear but 2nd, no matter if it goes into gear or not, has a little grind. Sometimes it doesn't go into 2nd but I can get it most of the time if I drive/shift a little harder. I was thinking the synchros are the problem but I tried letting the rpm's drop and shifting and it still grinds. I read up some before this and heard to put Dexron 4 in it but these ****ty car parts places only had a couple choices and the best seemed to be Mobil 1 ATF Synthetic which one of the guys working there said it was the same just from the Mobil brand. :shrug: I drained the transmission and put the new oil in but even after I did there doesn't seem to be much of a difference. Now that I have joined here and read more it seems maybe I shouldn't have got synthetic? Anyways, I am thinking I will end up needing a transmission but I wanted to get a good idea of the issue in case there was a easy fix. Also, if it is a synchro or something in the tranny how long could I count on it lasting for until I have no 2nd at all? I hate to ask that but I will probably have to save up $400-500 by the looks to get a used one off ebay which doesn't seem like to bad of a deal, it will just take me awhile. Thanks for any help :SNSign:
 
Well, somethings non-synthetic fluids can "band-aid" the problem by allowing the synchroes to grab a little better. Doesn't always work but i usually put non-syn in a T-5 anyway.

Typically you can't tell what needs to be replaced in a t-5 until you open it up. I dunno how mechanically inclined you are, but a new 2nd gear blocker is a $30 part. You'll have to inspect the 2nd gear drive gear and synchro slider for damage, but sometimes if you catch it earlier enough you can get away with chaning just the blocker

BUT, if you aren't mec. inclined, you could be looking at a $500-1000 bill to rebuild the trans unfortunately. In that case, either look for a good used one ($300-500) or a brand new Z-spec ($1100-1300)
 
FWIW, my 2nd gear did the same thing years ago at about 65,000 miles. I drove it for about 3 weeks skipping 2nd gear before something internal broke loose and trashed the whole tranny. I ended up getting a new Ford Motorsports tranny. No telling how long you can drive it, but the sooner you get it fixed, probably the better.

Good luck!
 
You need a small parts rebuild.
I think the kits are $199.
If you pull the trans yourself you can have it rebuilt for about $250.
So if you don't damage it anymore, there is good chance you can get a fresh trans out of it for under $500.
 
You need to pull it and check it out before your order anything, could be bent shift forks could be synchros. So if your not comfortable pulling it yourself then save up for a new/reman one

FYI the full t5 service manual is availble online at tremecs website. I used it when i rebuilt mine
 
FWIW, my 2nd gear did the same thing years ago at about 65,000 miles. I drove it for about 3 weeks skipping 2nd gear before something internal broke loose and trashed the whole tranny. I ended up getting a new Ford Motorsports tranny. No telling how long you can drive it, but the sooner you get it fixed, probably the better.

Good luck!

I drove my 89 for four years skipping 2nd gear before I replaced it. I do agree that getting it fixed now is better than waiting till later.
 
Well, somethings non-synthetic fluids can "band-aid" the problem by allowing the synchroes to grab a little better. Doesn't always work but i usually put non-syn in a T-5 anyway.

Typically you can't tell what needs to be replaced in a t-5 until you open it up. I dunno how mechanically inclined you are, but a new 2nd gear blocker is a $30 part. You'll have to inspect the 2nd gear drive gear and synchro slider for damage, but sometimes if you catch it earlier enough you can get away with chaning just the blocker

BUT, if you aren't mec. inclined, you could be looking at a $500-1000 bill to rebuild the trans unfortunately. In that case, either look for a good used one ($300-500) or a brand new Z-spec ($1100-1300)
:stupid:
 
I don't know how you feel about the DYI thing when it comes to gears, some people don't like the idea of working on
transmissions. If the DYI transmission fix idea isn't something that you would rather leave to someone else, here are
some resources:

See TTC: Product Literature to download
a FREE service manual for T5 or Tremec 3550/TKO
You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – Adobe - Adobe Reader download - All versions

See Hanlon Motorsports - T5 and Tremec parts, sales and service or Welcome to D&D Performance - The 5 & 6 Speed Experts! for parts

A T5 rebuild kit with syncros, bearings and other small parts costs about $160-$200. It does not include any gears or shafts.

Hanlon Motorsports - T5 and Tremec parts, sales and service also has a video
on how to rebuild your T5 or Tremec. It costs about $20, and is worth every penny of it.

I did a Tremec 3550 rebuild, and it wasn't that difficult. The video was an immense help, and I would recommend viewing it.
At $20, it will give you an opportunity to look and decide for yourself if you think that it is something you want to try to do.
 
Whats required as far as special tools to do the job myself? My main problem I think is lack of self confidence since I really don't think I could do it on my own correctly the first time. I plan on removing/installing the transmission myself anyways since I have done it to many other cars in the past but I just don't know about getting into the internals of it. I will have a better look at those online manuals tomorrow. Thanks for the comments and suggestions everyone.
 
I don't think the T5 needs many special tools. A dial indicator, some snap ring pliers. Its been 6 years since I worked on one, but it was not difficult at all.

Take time to remove it carefully, clean it, and have the step by step instructions handy. I did the 3-4 synchro replacement in a CJ7, using an old article from MM&FF, and the Chiltons manual for the Jeep. Worked fine. Be glad you do not have to reinstall the aluminum trans with the heavy cast iron transfer case....