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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Resolved 87' GT hatch project

  • Thread starter Thread starter Stopman33
  • Start date Start date Dec 24, 2024
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Stopman33

Active Member
Dec 22, 2024
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28
Minnesota United states
Dec 24, 2024
#1
  • Dec 24, 2024
  • #1
Purchased the car in Sept 2024, I knew nothing about fox body's or fords in general. Car has multiple issues many of which I'm in the process of fixing right now (gotta love unhacking previous owners repairs!)

First repair I had to do was the leaking transmission output seal, found one missing and two loose drive shaft bolts HA! that was a nice surprise. Currently in the process of swapping the speedometer cable and replacing the parking brake switch.

I have plans to replace the springs, struts and shocks here soon, I also plan to install a MGW short throw shifter while I have the console taken apart at this time.
 
Reactions: Rdub6, 2Blue2, General karthief and 2 others

gkomo

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
Aug 2, 2024
2,126
1,366
133
San Diego, CA
Dec 24, 2024
#2
  • Dec 24, 2024
  • #2
Good choice on the MGW shifter, I have one and would never go back to shifting a stock shifter.
 

Stopman33

Active Member
Dec 22, 2024
69
60
28
Minnesota United states
Dec 24, 2024
#3
  • Dec 24, 2024
  • #3
gkomo said:
Good choice on the MGW shifter, I have one and would never go back to shifting a stock shifter.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I've been scrolling through the forums and the name popped up a lot, the quality for the price seems good!
 

Stopman33

Active Member
Dec 22, 2024
69
60
28
Minnesota United states
Dec 24, 2024
#4
  • Dec 24, 2024
  • #4
UPDATE #2

Got the new speedometer cable in (sort of), When I had bought the car I had planned to remove the gauge cluster to access it as the tachometer was sticking at 2k rpm and would not work below that (would work fine above 2k but was 500rpm off) upon further discovery I also found that the four extra little lights for the low fluids were completely missing.

Decided to repair the cluster and replace the speedometer cable as it was very twitchy. upon removing the cluster I found a hose clamp holding the cable to the back of the speedometer LOL. Unfortunately given how poor shape the cluster was in I decided to just get a used one in better shape. Installed the new cluster (with LED's to replace just the back lights) new cluster works flawlessly without issue plus it has the lights I was missing. During that I had also tracked the BRAKE indicator light being faulty to a bad parking brake switch which is why I have the center console taken apart at the moment, I ordered the cup holder insert replacement center console piece from LMR, I hope it is good.

Just today I removed the speedometer cable and discovered I was missing the little jumper harness from the reverse light switch to the transmission harness which is definitely why the reverse lights don't work (One of the many issues). I Removed the speed sensor from the transmission and found it to be damaged, I ordered a new speed sensor and that jumper harness. I also reinstalled the gauge cluster and bezel with the new speedometer cable attached, I need to get new hardware for some of the plastics as some is missing but that's not anything too crazy.

Waiting for parts to arrive so I can put the interior back together and get working on the suspension, picture of the cluster is it back in the car.
 
Reactions: gkomo

gkomo

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
Aug 2, 2024
2,126
1,366
133
San Diego, CA
Dec 25, 2024
#5
  • Dec 25, 2024
  • #5
What LED lights did you go with in the cluster? A kit or did you just piece together what you needed?
 

Stopman33

Active Member
Dec 22, 2024
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Minnesota United states
Dec 25, 2024
#6
  • Dec 25, 2024
  • #6
gkomo said:
What LED lights did you go with in the cluster? A kit or did you just piece together what you needed?
Click to expand...
I ended up just ordering some generic 194 white led bulbs on eBay, popped them into the original sockets.
 

Stopman33

Active Member
Dec 22, 2024
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Minnesota United states
Dec 25, 2024
#7
  • Dec 25, 2024
  • #7
UPDATE #3

Did some more fiddling today, I wanted to see if I could figure out why the HVAC doesn't work. I removed the HVAC controls, I have no blower motor operation nor could I hear the mode door moving. When I had initially bought the car it kind of worked but now it does not. I need to order a new blendoor cable as the original one is seized and I'm leaning towards the blower motor going out.

I started the car for the first time in a month today, it did not want to idle properly at all and it was surging although I do not know what it causing that as it could be a multitude of things car still hesitates a small bit while revving and back fires although it doesn't seem to be running as rich. I'm not too concerned as it is in the garage until spring and I wont be running it all that much. I also discovered I am missing the charcoal canister and all of those components which may or may not be why the car idles like crap. I need to do more research into what exactly I'm missing and what I need to order.

Attached a picture of the cluster with the LED's, I also swapped out the HVAC control back light bulbs as well, they look good!
 
Last edited: Dec 26, 2024
Reactions: Willybill32, 89ripper and LILCBRA

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
5 Year Member
Oct 4, 2020
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Florida
Dec 26, 2024
#8
  • Dec 26, 2024
  • #8
Did you check the blower fuse??
 
Reactions: General karthief

Stopman33

Active Member
Dec 22, 2024
69
60
28
Minnesota United states
Dec 26, 2024
#9
  • Dec 26, 2024
  • #9
limp said:
Did you check the blower fuse??
Click to expand...
I have not, I will later tonight when I get home from work.
 

Stopman33

Active Member
Dec 22, 2024
69
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28
Minnesota United states
Dec 27, 2024
#10
  • Dec 27, 2024
  • #10
Confirmed bad blower motor!

Checked for power at blower motor connector and found good power, my suspicions were correct. I have a new blower motor and resistor (why not do the resistor, its cheap) coming as well as the MGW short throw shifter, I am excited to install it!
 
Last edited: Dec 27, 2024
Reactions: AeroCoupe, 89ripper and LILCBRA

Stopman33

Active Member
Dec 22, 2024
69
60
28
Minnesota United states
Jan 12, 2025
#11
  • Jan 12, 2025
  • #11
UPDATE #4

Installed the MGW shifter and put my center console back together yesterday! The cup holder piece from LMR fits nicely but the color isn't correct which isn't a huge deal. The shifter feels great! definitely worth the investment, no more slop at all. I also installed a new blendoor cable as the original one was seized. progress has been slow due to the cold weather preventing any thought of motivation haha.
 
Reactions: General karthief and AeroCoupe

gkomo

now i can hopefully expect to receive the shaft
Aug 2, 2024
2,126
1,366
133
San Diego, CA
Jan 12, 2025
#12
  • Jan 12, 2025
  • #12
Stopman33 said:
UPDATE #4

Installed the MGW shifter and put my center console back together yesterday! The cup holder piece from LMR fits nicely but the color isn't correct which isn't a huge deal. The shifter feels great! definitely worth the investment, no more slop at all. I also installed a new blendoor cable as the original one was seized. progress has been slow due to the cold weather preventing any thought of motivation haha.
Click to expand...
Haha I did the exact same thing, MGW with the cupholder center console. I believe LMR states their interior pieces should be painted, which I didn’t, so my gray doesn’t quite match either. Both fantastic upgrades tho!
 
Reactions: Stopman33

Stopman33

Active Member
Dec 22, 2024
69
60
28
Minnesota United states
Jan 12, 2025
#13
  • Jan 12, 2025
  • #13
gkomo said:
Haha I did the exact same thing, MGW with the cupholder center console. I believe LMR states their interior pieces should be painted, which I didn’t, so my gray doesn’t quite match either. Both fantastic upgrades tho!
Click to expand...
Yeah I've heard they're meant to be painted. It was absolutely worth every penny to upgrade!
 
Reactions: gkomo

Stopman33

Active Member
Dec 22, 2024
69
60
28
Minnesota United states
Jan 29, 2025
#14
  • Jan 29, 2025
  • #14
Update #5!

interior is mostly back together, I now have heat! (although the mode selector doesn't work) I still need to figure out my radio situation and why the horn button doesn't work but I'm sick of interior work right now.


I went and ordered many new suspension components. I ordered new eibach springs, koni orange shocks and struts (ordered quad shocks separate), new upper axle bushings and the MMS tool, new spring dampers, and a rear control arm kit. I am excited to install the parts, I will be adding subframe connectors soon!

And on the MGW shifter, I took the car for a drive the other day (on salty roads like I shouldn't have), the shifter feels great 10/10 would recommend!
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
5,796
3,928
183
Claremore, OK
Jan 29, 2025
#15
  • Jan 29, 2025
  • #15
Does the cigarette lighter work? Horn and it are on the same fuse and its super easy to drop a dime or penny in the cigarette lighter and pop that fuse. If the fuse checks out then get a jumper from the 12V+ side of the battery and test the horns themselves as they could be bad and just need replacing. If they test good then check for 12V+ on the horn wire when depressing the horn button.
 
Reactions: Stopman33

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
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10,520
203
polk county florida
Jan 29, 2025
#16
  • Jan 29, 2025
  • #16
I think there is a horn rely under the dash someplace, seems like I remember pulling this relay when my horn started acting up, never put it back
'I don't need no stink'n horn' he says in his best 'Doc' voice.
He's from Back to the Future sequel if you didn't know.
 
Reactions: Stopman33

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
5,796
3,928
183
Claremore, OK
Jan 29, 2025
#17
  • Jan 29, 2025
  • #17
Horn relay location:

https://www.corral.net/threads/horn-relay-what-a-pain.1243790/
 
Reactions: Stopman33 and General karthief

Stopman33

Active Member
Dec 22, 2024
69
60
28
Minnesota United states
Jan 29, 2025
#18
  • Jan 29, 2025
  • #18
AeroCoupe said:
Does the cigarette lighter work? Horn and it are on the same fuse and its super easy to drop a dime or penny in the cigarette lighter and pop that fuse. If the fuse checks out then get a jumper from the 12V+ side of the battery and test the horns themselves as they could be bad and just need replacing. If they test good then check for 12V+ on the horn wire when depressing the horn button.
Click to expand...
The horn does work if I jump the wires together, it’s an issue with the button itself. I ordered the “horn button repair kit” from LMR and put it in although it did not seem to fix the issue, I’ll have to either look back into it or get a different horn button.

Anyone have any idea on what the radio harness is supposed to look like? Mine is completely destroyed, I am missing the factory amp and when I bought the car it had some terrible old single din in it. I have wiring diagrams (thanks prodemand!) but it doesn’t help much as I’m missing at least three connector ends I’ll attach pictures later when I can take some
 
Reactions: General karthief

Stopman33

Active Member
Dec 22, 2024
69
60
28
Minnesota United states
Jan 30, 2025
#19
  • Jan 30, 2025
  • #19
This my my current radio harness, or what’s left of it… I can see that the right front speaker wires (WHT/LT GRN and DK GRN/ORG) are not attached to any harness. Theoretically I just need the speaker wires and I can get the rest sorted out.
 

85GTStangGuy

5 Year Member
May 19, 2021
997
625
113
Jax, Florida
Jan 30, 2025
#20
  • Jan 30, 2025
  • #20
I know it's not for your car, but on first glance I see some similarity with your colors.... dunno tho.... just throwing stuff out there.... have a look.... maybe it'll help ya.


1987 F150 with the Model E7TF-19B132-AA

Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Green/Yellow
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow/Black
Car Radio Ground Wire: Red or Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Blue/Red
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: 6″
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Orange/Green
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black/White
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): White/Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Black/White
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: 6″ x 9″ Speakers
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: Rear Corners
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink/Green
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Pink/Blue
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Pink/Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Green/Orange
 
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