Resolved 87' GT hatch project

#21
Doing the suspension on the 87' finally! I ordered eibach lowering springs and koni orange struts. I ordered new isolators from maximum motor sports and after I got the first spring in (front left side) I noticed a sizeable gap between the spring end and the purch it sits in. Is this normal or should I go without the lower isolators?
 

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#22
Yes it’s normal as they are lowering springs. Isolator should be all the way to the end of the pigtail on the spring. Also, make sure you put the end of the spring into the cup of the LCA.

9

Thread 'Front Coil Spring Install Question'

When installing front Eibach Pro Kit Coils springs,--- Is their a certain position the pig tail should face or doe it only go in one way on the control arm spring perch?

Thanks
 
#23
AeroCoupe said:
Yes it’s normal as they are lowering springs. Isolator should be all the way to the end of the pigtail on the spring. Also, make sure you put the end of the spring into the cup of the LCA.

9

Thread 'Front Coil Spring Install Question'

When installing front Eibach Pro Kit Coils springs,--- Is their a certain position the pig tail should face or doe it only go in one way on the control arm spring perch?

Thanks
Click to expand...
I see, I’ll have to re adjust the spring in the perch. The new isolator is preventing the end of the pig tail from fully seating in the cup, if that’s normal then that’s that.
 
#24
The isolators are supposed to prevent the metal of the spring from contacting the lower control arm which is supposed to stop noise and it also helps with them rusting.
 
#25
AeroCoupe said:
The isolators are supposed to prevent the metal of the spring from contacting the lower control arm which is supposed to stop noise and it also helps with them rusting.
Click to expand...
Right on, I got the fronts in and everything aligned honestly wasn't too hard even without the spring compressor, a second set of hands really helps. I'll be doing the rear before too long here, I also need new front brake hoses as the rubber shielding is split in three places on the front left hose!
 
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#29
May be a shot in the dark, but would anyone have a direction for me to figure out why my mustang does not run right? It seems like it's running extremely rich.

When cold starting it surges at idle but when hot it seems to idle fine. I am also getting a lot of backfiring on decel and the car smells like gas all the time.
I do notice that my coolant temp gauge isn't working right so I was thinking that the sensors are bad which they may be. I do know that some of the emissions/evap stuff is gone or screwed up, honestly I was thinking of doing a megasquirt swap and ditching the factory control system so I can tune it myself but I would like to figure out why it's running so poorly.
 
#30
Well, start at the beginning, check for codes, vacuum lines, and even the charging system, if it's running fat there should be codes for the O2s that correspond, check out our tech/how to forum for a list on the codes. That thing is Speed Density so it really don't like extra air (vacuum leak), another test to do would be the TPS, hell, just go here:

Help me create the "Surging Idle Checklist"

Updated 05 July 2022 to add rough idle when cold and smooth idle when up to normal operating temperature. See the EGR tech information, section #15 for more help. Many of you are familiar with the "Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs" checklist and the No Crank...
www.stangnet.com www.stangnet.com
Shows the steps to a happy engine, read the directions do the steps.
Or you can throw the parts store at it and hope for the best.
 
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#31
General karthief said:
Well, start at the beginning, check for codes, vacuum lines, and even the charging system, if it's running fat there should be codes for the O2s that correspond, check out our tech/how to forum for a list on the codes. That thing is Speed Density so it really don't like extra air (vacuum leak), another test to do would be the TPS, hell, just go here:

Help me create the "Surging Idle Checklist"

Updated 05 July 2022 to add rough idle when cold and smooth idle when up to normal operating temperature. See the EGR tech information, section #15 for more help. Many of you are familiar with the "Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs" checklist and the No Crank...
www.stangnet.com www.stangnet.com
Shows the steps to a happy engine, read the directions do the steps.
Or you can throw the parts store at it and hope for the best.
Click to expand...
Right on.
 
#37
Well today was a :poo: show, first my suburban blew a brake line and then as I was about to get in the car after work the drivers door handle exploded!

new door handles are in order... I also am ordering the correct speedometer gear, speedo was off by 5mph below 45ish and is 10mph off at highway speeds, the car currently has a 18tooth yellow speedometer gear, the car has 3.27's so I wonder what was replaced at what point.

I also have fixed (somewhat) its poor running I no longer have any backfiring on decel and it doesn't completely smell like gas all the time. The vacuum lines under the hood for the evap and egr are all sorts of screwed up, long story short I think the poor running may be due to the horrible vac lines, I plan to replace them all and do some testing. I have tried to scan the codes in the ecm and I was unable to get any codes to display! I did read about the ecu's having issues with that, I would not be surprised if the ecu was faulty.
 
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