Progress Thread 88 Black GT - DD

[stanglx2002]

I wasn't planning on making a thread for this one, since all I do is just drive this as my daily. This is a 1988 Black Mustang GT with a sunroof that used to be my dads, and is now been given to me. It is completely stock except a couple small upgrades of headers, mufflers, CAI, and 3.55 rear gears. Since, I have been doing some work on the car recently I figured it would be a good idea to share with you guys.

I ran into a string of bad luck with the car started having issues with it wanting to start and stay running when cold. It then was fine until this week. I drove the car to work and started it at lunch to make sure it was fine. It ran like champ, but then go out after work and no start. It would just turn over and over and over.

Went through the normal check for fuel, air and spark. I had the first two but clearly wasn't sparking. I thought it was the ignition coil so I put my new Accel one from my other mustang on there. No fix... Then put another TFI on it. No fix... o then thought let's just put the whole distributor from my other mustang including wires in there. No fix... Then put in new plugs thinking they were fouled. No fix... So at this point the ignition system is new, so the only thing I can think of is the computer, so I am going to put the MS2PNP in it and see if that fixes the problem.

So tomorrow I will be installing the MS in the car after letting the battery charge over night. Fingers crossed this is the problem.

No worries on my other mustang either since it's getting a MS3 and COP system anyways. The stuff was going over to that car once converted, so it's just getting them a little early.

 

[General karthief]

Did the computer spit out any codes?

 

[stanglx2002]

Did the computer spit out any codes?

Yes, 81, 82, 84, 85 for all the emission stuff that is removed. I put the MS computer with no luck this morning. I decided to check the ignition switch and it had movement between the two halfs. I have a new one so put it on the car to see if that is the issue.

Battery is back on the charger since I killed it trying to start the car a few times.

 

[stanglx2002]

The ignition switch was not the issue... still no start. The MS does show it cranking at 173RPM but no start

 

[stanglx2002]

Well went through the entire ignition system with no luck at all. Since that system was 100% it has to be something else, so decided to do further investigation on the fuel system. There was fuel at the shrader valve, but was thinking maybe there wasnt enough pressure. I got the gauge off my red mustang and sure enough there is only 25 psi at the rail.

I will be working backwards tomorrow to see if the fuel filter is clogged or if the fuel pump is the issue. I just replaced the pump last year when I got it up and running, so not sure why the pump would have already let go. Or maybe its the little hose from the pump to the hanger has a hole/crack in it.

Stay tuned...

 

[General karthief]

 

[a91what]

 

[stanglx2002]

Well with all this support I was able to get it running again. So working backwards, I started at the fuel filter and noticed the fuel supply lines has touched the exhaust going to the fuel filter. That could have been really really bad . So I had a replacement in my stash of mustang parts, but it didnt end up fixing the problem. So, I then moved to the fuel filter taking the output line off and checking to see if it had fuel flow. Turn the key to the Run position and fuel was flowing just fine, but still decided to just take the filter off the car. Good thing that I did, because when I dumped it out it had gray mud like stuff come out

Anybody have thoughts on what it could be that came out of the fuel filter?

Since, the fuel filter looked that bad I decided to dropped the whole fuel tank and pull the pump out. The pump sock on the end was gray as well, so I decided to drain the gas tank. I took an old shirt and used it as a filter to clean the fuel from the tank, but it only had a little settlement in it . The fuel looked clean after the filtering so I still have no idea what the gray crap was on the fuel sock and fuel filter??? After draining the entire tank I heard a noise in the tank, but thought it was the fuel sending unit. Nope... it was the baffle in the bottom of the tank and the inside looks like the lining has seen better days with a little surface type of rust/scale. I decided to take the entire fuel tank, pump and all from my red mustang as well. It was replaced a few years ago and looked brand new in there. So now everything in the back half of the fuel system is now new as well.

I was thinking to myself this time that this thing better run. I go to start the car and it coughed . Its doing something YAY its a miracle. I then tried to start it again but throttled the gas and sure enough it ran. It ran like crap due to the base tune I put in the MS, but it ran. I had to turn the throttle screw (2) turns to just make the tune happy that I will fix when I actually tune the car. So happy news in the end that the car now runs and sounded good. I can now finish tomorrow the install of the MS2PNP rather than it sitting in the passenger floorboard, install the wideband, and route the Map vacuum line, and finally run the fuse block.

This will get me setup and ready for the 12.3" DIGITAL DASH that's going in the DD

Don't worry about the fuel system for the red mustang since I needed to replace the small 155lph pump that was in the tank anyways to a 340lph for the upcoming 76mm Turbo. I am still debating putting in a 03-04 cobra fuel tank since its a direct replacement and can run dual fuel pumps. I can then put in a standard 190lph and a 340lph pump having it come on under boost.

 

[stanglx2002]

I was able to get the rest of the items installed in the car MS2PNP, Wideband, Vacuum Line, and Fuse Block. It took me all day to get it done, since I made sure to clean up the wiring before installing it in the car this time. The car started up just fine on the base tune, and after a little time got a roughed in VE Table and idling around 700 RPM.

I drove the car to work today (33 Miles one-way) running autotune to further iron out a good base VE Table. I should be able to now get a couple datalogs of my drives to work, and run them through MLV to finalize the VE Table. I will then work on enabling Closed Loop Idle as I am just running Warm-Up currently to get the base stuff done.

 

[stanglx2002]

Well the car made it to work and back, so I call that a victory in fixing the problem. I was able to get the Fuel VE Table nicely ironed out, and then Steve was able to pop in and knock out the CL Idle. He definitely knows his stuff that's for sure, and I highly appreciate his help. Even though the stock is mostly stock just putting the MS on it has a LOT better street manners. It drives so much smoother and idles much better.

Going to work on the upper RPM/kPa area now that the main area is mostly ironed out. Not looking for high HP in this thing and will be running on standard 87 Octane too. Then I can iron out the AE settings as they seem to be a little touchy, and need to be smoothed out.

 

[stanglx2002]

I have done much on this car except pull the driver side door panel to grease the window track. It was making a terrible screeching sound when you would roll it up.

Now that is fixed it is just waiting for the install of the Digital Dash.

 

[stanglx2002]

I haven't done much to the car other than drive it as little. Due to the whole virus thing I have been working from home still, so there hasnt been a big need to drive the car. The times that I have been able to take it out for a drive has been bloody HOT. I decided to fix that problem and ordered the necessary parts to hopefully fix the A/C in the car again. Years ago the system worked great but had a leak in it so the freon leaked all out.

I went ahead and ordered a new dryer, o-ring, and r-12 to r134a port conversion kit for the car. I already have a new orifice hose, so will be replacing those two main parts and all the o-rings in the system. Then refill the system with fingers crossed it will work again.

 

[stanglx2002]

Finally getting some time to work on the car this weekend, so the new A/C parts will be going in the car. Hopefully it decides to be a simple job of take out the old and put in the new.

I thought I read somewhere @90sickfox that you have just filled the A/C System without vacuuming... Is this true?

 

[90sickfox]

Yes it is true. You need to pour all the oil out of the compressor into a measuring cup. Sometimes new compressors already have some oil in them. Then you must add the correct amount of esther or retrofit oil.

I'm not saying it shouldn't be pulled down to vacuum...I just haven't done it. I've had nothing but good luck from the parts store charging cans. They have one called AC Pro that works the best. I've been charging AC systems with this stuff for the last 20yrs. At work we use an AC machine and I go through the complete process, but at home I've never used one.

Vacuuming helps remove moisture from the system. That moisture could cause freezing or could cause the freon to become acidic and rot the parts out from the inside over time. I've never had or seen this happen. Under vacuum the moisture literally boils out.

 

[nickyb]

I have always put a vac on and pulled to 28-30 inches. You do this to see if it holds,to check for leaks and remove moisture besides helping freon to get sucked into system.

 

[stanglx2002]

Got to work on the car yesterday in the brutal heat and the fact it being a black car made everything you tried to touch burn your hands. So got the new drier and oriface tube installed. Cleaned out the discharge tube while replacing all the orings. Then started the car to fill up the system.

Well the one part we all always hope is still good wasnt the ac compressor. It leaked when trying to add the freon and the most importantly the clutch never engaged. So I have it on the list now to get a new compressor and will be replacing the low pressure sensor with a r134a version as well so the system will be all new then.

 

[stanglx2002]

I have finally been able to get to work on more than one of my projects. I am in part collection mode currently until the weather decides to work with me and not rain. I have gotten so far Koni SRT Struts and Shocks, OEM Ford Compressor Clutch, ES12A Refrigerant and Oil, AC Low Pressure Switch, Door Pins, Front Brake Pads, and new to this car brake booster since my cobra brake booster came in for the red mustang.

Currently its supposed to rain for the next week, so maybe there will be a break in the rain. I need to also check the rear lower control bushings as it creaks from them, so will do that when I replace the shocks.

 

[nickyb]

Your gonna love the ES12A, it was 116 degrees yesterday here on the surface of the sun( Nevada) and my DD with es12a chilled me in no time.

 

[stanglx2002]

So I was able to get some work done but not as much as planned like most of us. I got the shocks and struts replaced along with replacing the front brake pads while I was in there. Since the rotor needed to come off to get to the strut bolts I went ahead and repacked the bearings too.

Not much to show for this other than my orange strut:

The next task was the biggest pain of getting the old brake booster out of my red mustang, cleaning and then painting it for install into this car. It is so much easier to replace in an automatic car then a manual due to the extra pedal making it almost impossible to get to the top left nut. Forgot to grab a finished picture of it painted back to black but we all know you like pictures.

Next up on the list is the AC replacing the compressor coil, o-rings and the low pressure switch. Then time to fill it with the es12 that I got for it. I also got oil so thinking I will dump out the old and put in new. It's compatible with all types so figured since the compressor will be off the car might as well. That will need to be a next weekend project.

 

[stanglx2002]

Some additional progress has been made but nothing picture worthy. I was having a creaking noise coming for the rear lower control arms. I pulled them out to check the torque boxes which were fine. Then checked the bushings which where still in good shape, but the center metal bushing had some rust buildup on the inside. Took a drill and cleaned up the inside so the bolt moved freely again. Regreased all the bushings inside/outside back to new and put it back together. The creaking noise is now gone and rides even smoother than before.

I have also been having a slow overheating issue when sitting in traffic. The car still has the original 2-row brass radiator in it and just believe its not up to the task of the stop-go traffic. So I went ahead and bought a new 3-row SVE aluminum from LMR, and to go with it the other parts on my long list of stuff including door run channel weatherstripping and steering rack limiters. I have been picking and choosing the worst items as they come up.

Still have to address to the (2) water leaks that I have one from the sunroof and the other is coming from the windshield. Just need to pull the sunroof and re silicone the mounts and the top windshield molding needs to come off to silicone the top of it as well. I can then focus on the A/C and the other interior updates it needs.