Engine 88 gt long tube plug change

Jan 11, 2019
41
2
8
21
Lenexa,kansas
#1
I want to check the plugs in my fox. It has long tubes but they kind of get in the way. Do I have to drop my headers or are there special tools I can use? I know some said I could use an extension and feel socket.
 
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08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
159
15
28
Massachusetts
#2
If can get a socket on the plug, it’s generally easy from there. Once it’s cracked loose, load it with PB blaster (the previous installer, hopefullyn used neverSeize on plug threads) or the threads are clean, it’s simple from there. Once loose, yank the Socket off, get your hand underneath to twist it out with your fingers. If you have any appropriately sized fuel line around, sized to slip tightly over the plug, use a little bit-about 4-6” long, add a little oil to the hose tip-push it onto the plug & spin it out with that, .
Many types of Spark plug sockets. Many have a rubber insert inside, protecting plug ceramic from breakage, some have wobble extensions fixed on them. Very useful types (and most common) have a hex on the outside of the socket, so you can get a wrench underneath to spin the Socket. If you are VERY close to the header with the socket (like it will run into it after a few turns) you’ll need to do it by hand, as above. Dropping the header is easy, if need be. I’ve yet to have to on a 5.0, just patience, simple tools, pB blaster (WD-40 works, too)- that- (and a few swears) go a long way!
Once you get them out, especially if you’ve struck the plugs ceramic, get a look at the plugs, if any doubts exist- replace them. Make it easy if you need to pull & inspect again. Clean, wire brush plug threads, spray solvent on them, brush NeverSeize on, re-install.
If you’re running GT40 Heads, headers not designed for them, you’ll have most issues with Cyl against the Drivers firewall the most. Backing header bolts out without removing may give you the space you need.
Good luck!
 
Jan 11, 2019
41
2
8
21
Lenexa,kansas
#3
If can get a socket on the plug, it’s generally easy from there. Once it’s cracked loose, load it with PB blaster (the previous installer, hopefullyn used neverSeize on plug threads) or the threads are clean, it’s simple from there. Once loose, yank the Socket off, get your hand underneath to twist it out with your fingers. If you have any appropriately sized fuel line around, sized to slip tightly over the plug, use a little bit-about 4-6” long, add a little oil to the hose tip-push it onto the plug & spin it out with that, .
Many types of Spark plug sockets. Many have a rubber insert inside, protecting plug ceramic from breakage, some have wobble extensions fixed on them. Very useful types (and most common) have a hex on the outside of the socket, so you can get a wrench underneath to spin the Socket. If you are VERY close to the header with the socket (like it will run into it after a few turns) you’ll need to do it by hand, as above. Dropping the header is easy, if need be. I’ve yet to have to on a 5.0, just patience, simple tools, pB blaster (WD-40 works, too)- that- (and a few swears) go a long way!
Once you get them out, especially if you’ve struck the plugs ceramic, get a look at the plugs, if any doubts exist- replace them. Make it easy if you need to pull & inspect again. Clean, wire brush plug threads, spray solvent on them, brush NeverSeize on, re-install.
If you’re running GT40 Heads, headers not designed for them, you’ll have most issues with Cyl against the Drivers firewall the most. Backing header bolts out without removing may give you the space you need.
Good luck!
Thank you for the reply, to clarify what your basically saying that. Get a plug tool un do by hand inspect the plugs replace if needed get some never seize reinstall and be done? Also I am running gt40 heads, were you trying to say my headers weren't designed for them?
 

Wayne Waldrep

Active Member
Apr 14, 2003
146
85
38
52
Cuba, AL
#4
I'm probably in the minority here but here goes. Panhandle Performance built me a couple of engines in the past. They are brilliant. They suggested shorties on both engines. And I was running AFR heads and good power levels back then. Sure they said if I needed an extra 6 or 8 HP I could run long tubes but is that really worth it? Not to me. And you are running iron GT40's so maybe you get a couple extra HP over some shorties. I'd sell them and the mid pipe and get some good shorties and X-pipe. I've made tons of power with that combo and never had the headache of long tubes. Again, just my thoughts and not for everybody. Just trying to help in the long run.
 

08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
159
15
28
Massachusetts
#5
Hi, lol, yes- I need to condense answers. Sorry. Regarding your questions-yes. If you’re running GT40 Heads, having a hard time with plugs, yes- it’s highly likely you’re not running GT40/P headers designed specifically for them. This isn’t unusual, many people do not. .Once you do this once, it’s easy after that.)
Downsides are:
1) Cyl #7 and #8 plug(s) are difficult to access.
2) Issues with Header melting through one spark plug wire (either #6 or #7) You’ll
7EB345E2-A066-43AB-9CA6-0F2185007805.jpeg
2C61D8A6-AAF8-490C-AD06-238EE4F060B2.jpeg
know it when you see it.
A 90 degree boot on the Plug, or high temp insulation, are the typical “cures”.. Are you checking plugs because of an issue, a problem, newly acquired, or just maintenance?
Posted a couple Pic’s of GT40P’s, BBK non GT40 headers. Zoom in & see if it looks familiar.
Cheers!
 
Jan 11, 2019
41
2
8
21
Lenexa,kansas
#6
Hi, lol, yes- I need to condense answers. Sorry. Regarding your questions-yes. If you’re running GT40 Heads, having a hard time with plugs, yes- it’s highly likely you’re not running GT40/P headers designed specifically for them. This isn’t unusual, many people do not. .Once you do this once, it’s easy after that.)
Downsides are:
1) Cyl #7 and #8 plug(s) are difficult to access.
2) Issues with Header melting through one spark plug wire (either #6 or #7) You’ll View attachment 622421 View attachment 622422 know it when you see it.
A 90 degree boot on the Plug, or high temp insulation, are the typical “cures”.. Are you checking plugs because of an issue, a problem, newly acquired, or just maintenance?
Posted a couple Pic’s of GT40P’s, BBK non GT40 headers. Zoom in & see if it looks familiar.
Cheers!
Hey man, with the header set up in the photos I can barely see them. But thank you for the photos. I have an issue where I'm getting a high rpm misfire. It only happens when I really get on it like 3 grand rpm and up usually between 4k and 5 k rpm. Trying to see what my plugs look like maybe I'm leaning out?
 
Jan 11, 2019
41
2
8
21
Lenexa,kansas
#7
Hey man, with the header set up in the photos I can barely see them. But thank you for the photos. I have an issue where I'm getting a high rpm misfire. It only happens when I really get on it like 3 grand rpm and up usually between 4k and 5 k rpm. Trying to see what my plugs look like maybe I'm leaning out?
Also I would like to add the car runs really smooth just can't get into all the way because it will misfire
 

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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
10,925
3,351
193
polk county florida
#8
Are your plugs straight or angled?
does not matter at this point anyway,, do this checklist to find problem, start at the top and work step by step, some things will seem not related to the problem but it will help find the miss fire.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=698148
 
Jan 11, 2019
41
2
8
21
Lenexa,kansas
#9

08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
159
15
28
Massachusetts
#10
I’ll send better pic’s, helpful to know the Car’s recent history, it a recently purchase, recently built, out of hibernation, any recent changes? This just start occurring one day, or start & worsen with time? Is there a CEL on?
Usually simple things. It may be low fuel flow or pressure (Change filter), a bad plug wire, plug, weak coil, TFI acting up when hot, start first with the basics that may uncover the issue, will help now and/or later...
Get a can of CRC MAF sensor cleaner.
1) Pull your MAF Sensor plug while car is running, it stumble and die? Remove and carefully spray it with the CRC MAF cleaner.
2) Pull the plugs, look for 1 with color different than the rest, may be able to isolate it. Tan is optimal, black- rich, white- lean.
3) Pull the plug wires on cap, verify solid connections, use dielectric grease to lube & improve, keep moisture out. Route so they are not contacting or arcing to themselves or anything else.
4) Pull your distributor cap, rotor, and spray out the bowl with the CRC. Look for wear or any hairline cracks in the Cap or Rotor.
5!) inspect all your vacuum lines, look for disconnected, bad lines, any doubt- replace.
6) Have a fuel pressure gauge on your rail? What is F.pressure with/without regulator connected?Pull your Fuel pressure regulator line, provide some vacuum, if you smell or taste fuel, it’s bad- replace the regulator.
7) Check all your grounds, from the block to Chassis, Distributor to Block, etc.
-If the basics don’t yield anything, we’ll need to delve a bit deeper.
Looks like another posted a link, while I was typing, whichever helps. Good luck!
 

08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
159
15
28
Massachusetts
#11
-Remove your battery cables when working, as needed, if your Intake tubes are dirty, clean them & the Throttle body as well.
 
Jan 11, 2019
41
2
8
21
Lenexa,kansas
#12
I’ll send better pic’s, helpful to know the Car’s recent history, it a recently purchase, recently built, out of hibernation, any recent changes? This just start occurring one day, or start & worsen with time? Is there a CEL on?
Usually simple things. It may be low fuel flow or pressure (Change filter), a bad plug wire, plug, weak coil, TFI acting up when hot, start first with the basics that may uncover the issue, will help now and/or later...
Get a can of CRC MAF sensor cleaner.
1) Pull your MAF Sensor plug while car is running, it stumble and die? Remove and carefully spray it with the CRC MAF cleaner.
2) Pull the plugs, look for 1 with color different than the rest, may be able to isolate it. Tan is optimal, black- rich, white- lean.
3) Pull the plug wires on cap, verify solid connections, use dielectric grease to lube & improve, keep moisture out. Route so they are not contacting or arcing to themselves or anything else.
4) Pull your distributor cap, rotor, and spray out the bowl with the CRC. Look for wear or any hairline cracks in the Cap or Rotor.
5!) inspect all your vacuum lines, look for disconnected, bad lines, any doubt- replace.
6) Have a fuel pressure gauge on your rail? What is F.pressure with/without regulator connected?Pull your Fuel pressure regulator line, provide some vacuum, if you smell or taste fuel, it’s bad- replace the regulator.
7) Check all your grounds, from the block to Chassis, Distributor to Block, etc.
-If the basics don’t yield anything, we’ll need to delve a bit deeper.
Looks like another posted a link, while I was typing, whichever helps. Good luck!
I’ll send better pic’s, helpful to know the Car’s recent history, it a recently purchase, recently built, out of hibernation, any recent changes? This just start occurring one day, or start & worsen with time? Is there a CEL on?
Usually simple things. It may be low fuel flow or pressure (Change filter), a bad plug wire, plug, weak coil, TFI acting up when hot, start first with the basics that may uncover the issue, will help now and/or later...
Get a can of CRC MAF sensor cleaner.
1) Pull your MAF Sensor plug while car is running, it stumble and die? Remove and carefully spray it with the CRC MAF cleaner.
2) Pull the plugs, look for 1 with color different than the rest, may be able to isolate it. Tan is optimal, black- rich, white- lean.
3) Pull the plug wires on cap, verify solid connections, use dielectric grease to lube & improve, keep moisture out. Route so they are not contacting or arcing to themselves or anything else.
4) Pull your distributor cap, rotor, and spray out the bowl with the CRC. Look for wear or any hairline cracks in the Cap or Rotor.
5!) inspect all your vacuum lines, look for disconnected, bad lines, any doubt- replace.
6) Have a fuel pressure gauge on your rail? What is F.pressure with/without regulator connected?Pull your Fuel pressure regulator line, provide some vacuum, if you smell or taste fuel, it’s bad- replace the regulator.
7) Check all your grounds, from the block to Chassis, Distributor to Block, etc.
-If the basics don’t yield anything, we’ll need to delve a bit deeper.
Looks like another posted a link, while I was typing, whichever helps. Good luck!
I was only able to do one of these things you mentioned at the moment. I pulled the maf and it actually did stumble but it didn't die. By the way this car is an 88 so it didn't come with the maf. It was converted to maf. I might as well give you a run down on the car. I bought from some guy. It's HCI fox with
75mm the
MSD ignition
30lb injectors
Cold air intake
Pushrods with roller rockers
King cobra clutch
Tko t5
 

08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
159
15
28
Massachusetts
#13
Hi, yeah- was curious if it was a Speed Density platform. Great it’s been changed over. Answering the info below will improve accuracy of the direction we go, if need be. As you go through the list, you may nail the issue, if not- we just go deeper.
This Car did pull hard into high RPM’s when you’d acquired it, right? What occurred between then and the high rpm breakup starting, was it just one day you hit it, and the issue was there, or it just started and worsened with time? You can go pop your hood, darkness will show a leaky coil, any arcing. If you can, give it a shot. Good luck!
John
 
Jan 11, 2019
41
2
8
21
Lenexa,kansas
#14
Hi, yeah- was curious if it was a Speed Density platform. Great it’s been changed over. Answering the info below will improve accuracy of the direction we go, if need be. As you go through the list, you may nail the issue, if not- we just go deeper.
This Car did pull hard into high RPM’s when you’d acquired it, right? What occurred between then and the high rpm breakup starting, was it just one day you hit it, and the issue was there, or it just started and worsened with time? You can go pop your hood, darkness will show a leaky coil, any arcing. If you can, give it a shot. Good luck!
John
I just hit it one day and it started missing between 4-5k rpm but oddly enough it runs smooth like 3/4 and below throttle. I unplugged it stumbled so I guess it working.
 

08GT500

Active Member
Jul 12, 2018
159
15
28
Massachusetts
#15
And checking yjour MAF by unplugging shows its ‘in the loop’ and sending feedback. Cleaning it with MAF cleaner will ensure it’s sending the correct flow settings.
 
Jan 11, 2019
41
2
8
21
Lenexa,kansas
#16
And checking yjour MAF by unplugging shows its ‘in the loop’ and sending feedback. Cleaning it with MAF cleaner will ensure it’s sending the correct flow settings.
ok I'll get some tomorrow and will also try and get a fuel pressure gauge
 

Wayne Waldrep

Active Member
Apr 14, 2003
146
85
38
52
Cuba, AL
#17
MSD ignition....I'd definitely eliminate that to see if that's the problem. I threw mine away after it turned out to be junk.
 
Jan 11, 2019
41
2
8
21
Lenexa,kansas
#20
I would but you said "MSD ignition" so I thought that's what you had. I'd continue with 08GT500's list.
sorry I'm just going off of the parts list the guy had in the add. He's not even the one that did all the stuff to it. He bought the car and didn't know much about stangs. So he probably miss labeled some of the parts. Im also new to stangs but I'm learning. But I just went out to make sure. Didn't see a box just the dizzy and the msd coil. It's usually mounted in the engine bay right?