Progress Thread 88 Gt T-top- Project problem child

Mustang5L5 · Jan 17, 2017

Yeah I don't do paint. I'm too impatient.

I had the car repainted in 2000. To be honest I bet a professional detail job would bring it back to life, so I should try that.

billison · Jan 17, 2017

I've painted a couple times. For now the plan is to go back to black.

Noobz347 · Jan 17, 2017

billison said:
Sooo I found this in my kick panel... don't look stock.

brnit with teh firez

billison · Jan 26, 2017

Got a little work done tonight. Nothing huge. Pulled the upper, started pulling the ac, and started pulling the long tubes. Hoping to have the exhaust pulled over the weekend. Swapping to shorties and cats. But one it's out it'll make it even easier to paint the bay. So it's officially started.

I'll be basically pulling everything but the motor and harness for paint, and once the fenders are off I can access the fender aprons and go from there.

Mstng93SSP · Jan 27, 2017

billison said:
Stolen from another post. But this is about what I'm going for. Cleaned Up fenders, clean stock looking under hood components.

Anyone know what the factory 88 engine bay would have been pained? Body color or that gray color? I'll be going body color.

That's my engine bay. I actually painted that myself when I had nothing more than the shortblock in there. It was not bad to do. For my wire tuck I didn't really go nuts, just went for a cleaner look. My main harness in the back is like you mentioned doing, just tucked under the pinch weld. I like the stock-ish look personally with just some cleaning up of the wires. The engine bay is one of the things I am most pleased with on this car. It's fun when I go to shows and reverse in by some of the other cars, pop my hood and they slowly all start closing their hoods....

Chris

billison · Jan 29, 2017

If I ever get the idea in my head that I want long tubes again can a group of you come kick me in the nuts for 3 hours till I remember how bad a idea it is?

billison · Jan 29, 2017

Also, I've suspected the last owner took the car out mudding before he sold it, the whole underside is caked in clay. Found this gem hiding away.

Davedacarpainter · Jan 30, 2017

billison said:
Also, I've suspected the last owner took the car out mudding before he sold it, the whole underside is caked in clay. Found this gem hiding away.

What is it you're showing us? I'm an r-tard and can't tell.

General karthief · Jan 30, 2017

I like my long tubes, mine fit reasonably well, I had to make sure the engine was kinda centered, starter was no big deal, changed it twice.
So I'm not invited to the nut kicking party right?

billison · Jan 30, 2017

To get these out I had to completely remove the motor mount and starter. That along with a stripped oxygen sensor made for a fun time.

I'll grab another pic soon, but it's either a large rock or a large chunk of clay between the motor mount. The rear was the same, just a thin coat of clay on everything. Makes me think it spent some time in a field with the tires spinning.

02 281 GT · Jan 30, 2017

I posted elsewhere, but I'll post here, too.

The best way to get the most clearance for long tubes:

Driver's side: unbolt the steering shaft from the rag join (if yours is still stock), collapse the shaft and stow it out of the way. This should give you plenty of room to install the driver's side from the bottom.

Passenger side: unbolt the passenger motor mount and jack that side of the engine up until you have enough clearance to drop the header in from the top. I used the smog pump bracket as a jack point for this.

billison · Jan 30, 2017

Yeah, I saw that. My shaft goes though the long tubes so it's coming out anyway. But the passenger side is out, gonna try for the drivers side tonight /tomorrow

billison · Jan 30, 2017

Honestly the worst part was my o2 sensor being stripped, cat to cut it in half.

billison · Jan 31, 2017

02 281 GT said:
I posted elsewhere, but I'll post here, too.

The best way to get the most clearance for long tubes:

Driver's side: unbolt the steering shaft from the rag join (if yours is still stock), collapse the shaft and stow it out of the way. This should give you plenty of room to install the driver's side from the bottom.

Passenger side: unbolt the passenger motor mount and jack that side of the engine up until you have enough clearance to drop the header in from the top. I used the smog pump bracket as a jack point for this.

I'm at the point now where I gotta remove the shaft. I can seperate the rag joint and remove the shaft without loosening the rack?

Davedacarpainter · Jan 31, 2017

billison said:
I'm at the point now where I gotta remove the shaft. I can seperate the rag joint and remove the shaft without loosening the rack?

I did, so I would say yes.

02 281 GT · Jan 31, 2017

billison said:
I'm at the point now where I gotta remove the shaft. I can seperate the rag joint and remove the shaft without loosening the rack?

That's what I did, yes. The stock shaft should be collapsible, which makes it possible.

billison · Jan 31, 2017

Much success

Davedacarpainter · Jan 31, 2017

billison said:
Much success

Tah dah! Good job man

billison · Jan 31, 2017

Got the header out. Next will be the booster. Gonna take a day to rest and get some baggies to start storing and labeling things.

Man these headers made me work for it. But they are gone and I never gotta worry about them again .

billison · Feb 7, 2017

Update on some parts. Got a deal on some mm cc plates.

And traded my long tubes for some shorties, bbk cated mid pipe with the flow tubes, and the guy toss in a good charcoal canister and the proper size water pump pulley I need. Good night for deals.

Progress Thread 88 Gt T-top- Project problem child

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