So no it doesn't fit to well. It would work but it would be awful close to the alternator.
So i might bite the bullet and get the reproduction from lmr.
Also. My headlights are pretty much trashed.
The bulb holder is melted and deformed in the driver's side and the passenger side is held on with a sheet metal screw. I've got new lenses for the tail lights so i guess I'll get new lights in the front. I always hated the factory diffuser headlights. They just don't put out as much light as modern clear diamond style reflector lights do. I only see complete sets with markers but i don't really know if i like the clear markers.
I want better headlights but the original markers look better to me.
I've only replaced the passenger taillamp lens so far since it was broken. I got headlight bulbs from the pnp. Only could get 9007 and all the fords from 94' up have them. They fit the same but are pinned different.
So i forgot that i do have the lid to the air cleaner just no the housing.
Anyway i was turning over too slow so after cleaning all the grounds and doing a voltage drop test, i determined the starter was the problem. I went ahead and got the pmgr starter.
When i took the old starter off it didn't have the right bolts in it. The bolts were too short and it was barely on. So i picked up some correct bolts, 3/8" coarse 1.5" long and grade 5.
So now she turns over like she should.
So it's a hard start and will stall after a few seconds. Pip is great and coil trigger is consistent. Spark looks lean. I'll re test Monday.
This is a fueling issue. I'm suspicious of the injectors and the wiring. Particularly the ten pin connectors. They are in bad condition.
This coming week I'll pull it out of the shop under it's own power. Brakes are done. Driveshaft is in and exhaust is on but no mufflers. I know the transmission pump works but i don't know if it will go in gear or if it will stall in gear.
Still haven't tried to drive it yet. Need to run new hoses to the transmission cooler. It does pump fluid though. When i pulled the pan it didn't smell burned and was surprisingly very clean.
I did get the carpet and seats in . Back seat was in great shape. Fronts wear trash. Got two seats from the PnP one from a 02 and from an 01.
I was surprised the iac valve worked, it idled on it's own but today it started sticking and the not responding to commanded duty cycle.
warmed it long enough to hit closed loop and found o2 sensors show 2mv despite stft at 25 %. goosing throttle and they'll read but I have been suspicious of the injectors I got a the PnP. I knew I had lean cylinders. I also threw it in reverse and the wheels started spinning. so it at least has reverse.
With the iac not working could feather the throttle and keep it around 800 rpm. mass voltage was below .6 v and it should at or above .6 at idle.
I recorded a lot of data and I'm reviewing it. Right now I know I need an iac and may grap another set of injectors.
She revs up real good. I'll be back on it tonight when it cools off.
Getting it back on the road as a daily driver. keeping it mostly stock. it needs a lot of work still but my budget is limited. I thought I'd try to drive it today but then the iac craps out. I'm going to warm it up this evening and see if it will run koeo tests. I would like to see a code related to lean condition.
new o2 sensors were in a standard box but didn't say standard on them. both work but I'm going to swap an old pair in to see any difference. Still if the ecu sees low o2 then it adds fuel by increasing the short term fuel percentage. At 25 % the o2 should show high but both showed 2mv that's unusually low. 100-900 is normal although i have seen old fords get as low as 30mv.
Until it goes closed loop the ecu runs base fuel. Even then it shows lean, I can see it when scoping ignition.
So after reviewing some data I believe the air tube may be leaking and causing the low maf voltage and contributing to the lean condition. The flexible tube i got doesn't seem to seal inside the coupling. I don't have the factory tubing. I got a Speter flexible tube and I think it's not going to work. I'll get the hard plastic ones like I had on my truck.
Update. Got the iac issue sorted out. The connector pins were stretched out. And yes the air tube was leaking. I reattached and now it's sealed.
I finally got a factory air box too. So she idles just fine with no hunting or surging. On start up she runs around 1200 rpm and over a couple minutes
comes down to around 950. I'll need to set minimum idle speed but it's fine running high while I'm testing. It goes closed loop about 3 minutes after start up.
The older ECUs take way longer to go closed loop. My 88' Bronco wouldn't until it reached 160 degrees. I don't know about the A9L or A9P ECT.
Getting in closed loop faster is better for emissions. Upon going closed loop it starts adjusting STFT based on o2 switching. Bank 1 is now switching normally.
Bank 2 isn't. Bank 2 STFT goes rich to try to make the o2 sensor respond. after a few minutes it gives up and starts adjusting STFT based the bank 1 o2 sensor.
Thus acting as a single o2 sensor system. The bank 2 o2 sensor harness side connector is broken and not fitting good. This is causing a poor signal.
Otherwise everything is working as it should. Since This is an automatic ECU for a 4R70W, it's wanting to see the transmission range in park. Without the MLPS connected the ECU defaults to overdrive. Sure it starts and runs like this but drive and park/neutral have different idle strategies.
This was the only ECU I could get at the PnP. Of all the mustangs the only 5.0 was an automatic. But I needed something to get the car running and foe $35 it would do.
I put a potentiometer in between the transmission range input and reference voltage. I'm able to run through the ranges and park is about 4.3 volts.
You can hear the sound of the engine change when it shows park. The timing drops a little and it's almost a 50 rpm drop.
So it drives, it's got some issues though. I put it in reverse and I let it creep backwards, then drive and pulled out of the shop. Well t brakes don't seem to grab.
I did a doughnut and drove back into the shop. I had to turn the ignition off because I can't get it out of drive. The shifter cable is messed up.
Rear brakes don't grab. The front brakes are fine. I replaced the hoses, pads and master cylinder. I bleed the whole system and I had good pressure at the rear so I left the rear brakes alone. Well, I had to beat the drums off with a sledge hammer. Their all rusted up. Actually the shoes are good. They don't look like they have many miles on them. So I'm going to replace all hardware, cylinders and drums.
The shift cable tube that that guides the cable is broken so it pulls back fine but to go forward the cable bunches up.
The best price I could find for the cable is $89.99 on rockauto. People want more for a used one on ebay.
In the pic you can see the metal tube is broken. I have attempted to jb weld it but no good.
Since JB weld didn't hold that tube together I'm going to pull the cable assembly out so i can work on it on the bench. I have silver bearing solder and I've had good luck soldering thin metal like that.
I know you're working a permanent solution but a temp one would be to put a small hose clamp on the cable tube and safety-wire the crap out of it, to the bracket.