Progress Thread 89 Gt Wishlist

[stang89bidges]

I am posting my wishlist and am hoping to update the thread with my progress. I will probably edit this list as I go but it's a good start I think. Here comes empty pockets syndrome...

Wishlist
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/Wishlist/Share/a0cb8283-ca39-4247-8adf-b9d491c02568

Add-ons to wishlist:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Brake-Upgrade-Package-1987-93-P676.aspx

Please feel free to give advice on any of these products whether its a review, past experience, get something else's, and installation advice.

Tom

 

[GoldenEagle91]

Are you planning on running a bunch of electronics? Such as A/C, aftermarket speaker setup, rear defroster, electric fans etc? If you aren't going to be running a bunch of electronics then there may be no need to pick up a 130 amp alternator

 

[stang89bidges]

I have an issue with electronics and idle. I really think the alternator needs to be upgraded to help this out. I installed new HID headlights that have bolt-in(for my model mustang) ballasts but they are very dim and suck. I looked at multimeter readings when engine idle at 850rpm and is varied between 11-13v. Usually it was higher 12v and low 13v. Been a while since I did this.

I also have aftermarket radio and I do intend on installing some new speakers, amp, and small sub.

I also have a vortec V2 supercharger installed with it's electrical components. Not sure what that takes.

The idle issue is what I am really doing this for and future upgrades. Do you think I could get away with a cheaper option? I'm not going crazy with electronic components.

 

[a91what]

IMO get an alternator from a 95-96 they are 130amp output and work just fine with a little modification. the case is slightly larger and will hit the factory mounting bracket which will require a little massaging. with your vortec system the alt may just bolt right up since it bottom mounts. best part is a reman is cheap at the local auto parts store.

 

[stang89bidges]

IMO get an alternator from a 95-96 they are 130amp output and work just fine with a little modification. the case is slightly larger and will hit the factory mounting bracket which will require a little massaging. with your vortec system the alt may just bolt right up since it bottom mounts. best part is a reman is cheap at the local auto parts store.

Don't I need to upgrade the wiring if I go 130 amp?

 

[a91what]

yes but i do an ebay solution you can get a 150 amp fuse holder with fuse and wire with premade ends. or simply get the fuse holder and fuse, 5ft of wire and some mechanical lugs. i completely redid my wiring in 1/0 for $40 this includes the grounds and amps in my trunk.

 

[GoldenEagle91]

I also have aftermarket radio and I do intend on installing some new speakers, amp, and small sub.

I also have a vortec V2 supercharger installed with it's electrical components. Not sure what that takes.

The idle issue is what I am really doing this for and future upgrades. Do you think I could get away with a cheaper option? I'm not going crazy with electronic components.

Correct me if I'm wrong but could the supercharger be causing an issue with electrical and charging? They do put a load on the engine but as to whether or not they would cause the issues you speak of I'm not sure. Just spit balling here

 

[stang89bidges]

Alternator: I'm thinking if I upgrade the alt then the wire from pos. term. on battery to new alt. needs to be upgraded. Then I think the wire from neg. term. from battery to engine(ground) also needs to be upgraded. IMO. I have read these things and it makes sense to me.

Vortec SC: It is installed with a retard boost control. This is definitely wired in to computer and the unit. doubt it pulls much from system. The SC itself I don't think that is wired into anything. IDK cuz I didn't install it. But it was a unit built to bolt right into the stock engine setup so now that I'm thinking about it it's prob fine.

Those headlights are concerning me and future aftermarket items.

I may just research that alternator mentioned above and buy my own wiring to upgrade the pos and neg battery wires.

 

[GoldenEagle91]

Alternator: I'm thinking if I upgrade the alt then the wire from pos. term. on battery to new alt. needs to be upgraded. Then I think the wire from neg. term. from battery to engine(ground) also needs to be upgraded. IMO. I have read these things and it makes sense to me.

If you have been doing a lot of reading on something, providing that it is a good source, and you feel that it is gospel then I would suggest you go with your gut on it. Seems to be tried and true method. Always nice to have people confirm your suspicions. Good luck on your project my friend.

 

[mikestang63]

130 amp 3G alt upgrade is always a good upgrade to do. Shorty antenna may cause signal problems. Not going to comment on the springs as I don't know who makes them or the spring rates. I'll just say I am partial to either Steeda or H&R. For shocks bilsteins are a good choice as Tikico's.

LMRS is a great vendor and offer Stangnet members a discount.

Hit up @[email protected] for the stanget member discount.

 

[madspeed]

Moved to talk

 

[TOOLOW91]

skip the kyb been there and done that they ride harsh as hell especially with springs. Get yourself tockicos or something as mentioned. I have the eibach pro kit springs with tockico blues and it rides pretty well for a lowered car.

 

[tamadrummer88]

I dont see the Tokico blues for sale anywhere. I think theyre discontinued

Summit doesnt have them as well as LMRS

 

[TOOLOW91]

spend the money on something good I am telling ya it makes a difference

 

[stang89bidges]

well crap, you made me do some serious research on the kit. Earlier I found nobody had bad things to say about the shocks. But I must have stopped short of that cuz I started in on reviews of the kyb gas adjust and 75% of the reviews were bad. I'm most concerned about them lasting a few years.

honestly I think I might just grab some cheap shocks n struts that match stock and wait till I can spend cash on a k-member, arms, and coil-overs.

what do you guys think? Only reason I was getting that kit was its cheap and I'm jacking up the car, pulling off the wheels and doing a brake upgrade.

 

[mikestang63]

well crap, you made me do some serious research on the kit. Earlier I found nobody had bad things to say about the shocks. But I must have stopped short of that cuz I started in on reviews of the kyb gas adjust and 75% of the reviews were bad. I'm most concerned about them lasting a few years.

honestly I think I might just grab some cheap shocks n struts that match stock and wait till I can spend cash on a k-member, arms, and coil-overs.

what do you guys think? Only reason I was getting that kit was its cheap and I'm jacking up the car, pulling off the wheels and doing a brake upgrade.

dont put cheap shocks on your car, wait and do it once.

 

[TOOLOW91]

dont put cheap shocks on your car, wait and do it once.

ditto it's one of the things that affect the car totally and your feeling on it's driving experience

 

[85SVOGUY]

Yea I have kyb gr2s all the way around and they dnt ride that great. But compared to the stock 25 year old ones that were frozen and needed to be cut off with my cut off wheel. They ride pretty well paired with my bbk gripp springs comparatively speaking.

 

[85SVOGUY]

BUT if you really don't have the money, your shocks right now are blown, and you don't plan on doing the coilover kit for a while. I say just buy em. I'm budget minded because I have a family and don't make above average pay. I understand it's best practice to buy once or try and save up. But SOME of us can't do it. Usually the ones who say just buy the good ones right now or don't buy anything. Usually aren't in the same boat as the rest of us.

 

[a91what]

i agree but if its not a daily driver, then why buy twice. i have redone everything twice now and wow it cost way more than expected to get it the way i wanted. IMO.