I'm 5'11" with medium legs and enjoy short walks to the beer fridge
In all seriousness, the harness bar definitely restricts rearward seat movement and seatback tilt a couple inches more than I'd prefer. I think its primarily due to how thick the seat back is in combination with the amount of "flex" in the hinge/seat frame. If I scoot it or lean it too far back, the vinyl on the back of the seat periodically rubs/squeaks against the harness bar when driving. The limited seat mobility, in combination with the new seat foam, makes me sit 1"-2" higher than I'm used to.
I plan to experiment with chopping the legs on the seat sliders down about 1". I've got a spare slider that I'm going to bolt down to something and hack on a bit. I saw a thread on one of the forums a while back about it, but haven't been able to find it again.
In all seriousness, the harness bar definitely restricts rearward seat movement and seatback tilt a couple inches more than I'd prefer. I think its primarily due to how thick the seat back is in combination with the amount of "flex" in the hinge/seat frame. If I scoot it or lean it too far back, the vinyl on the back of the seat periodically rubs/squeaks against the harness bar when driving. The limited seat mobility, in combination with the new seat foam, makes me sit 1"-2" higher than I'm used to.
I plan to experiment with chopping the legs on the seat sliders down about 1". I've got a spare slider that I'm going to bolt down to something and hack on a bit. I saw a thread on one of the forums a while back about it, but haven't been able to find it again.
Finally got the brake booster push rod length dialed in this weekend! After a 20 minute drive, the system would heat up enough to cause the front brakes to drag pretty hard.
I spent a little time testing brake lockup as well. Right now the proportioning valve is all the way opened & I cannot get the rears to lock up. I somewhat think its my older 265 Nitto 555's up front compared to the fresh 295 NT05's out back. Anyone experienced anything like this before?
I spent a little time testing brake lockup as well. Right now the proportioning valve is all the way opened & I cannot get the rears to lock up. I somewhat think its my older 265 Nitto 555's up front compared to the fresh 295 NT05's out back. Anyone experienced anything like this before?
Which Brembos are those? The ATS Brembos?
While you do have a lot of rear grip, your brake bias is skewed more to the front. You can change out the rear calipers from the SN95 38mm units to the 93-97 Taurus 43mm units. Direct bolt on and uses the same parking brake hookup. That should get the bias closer to 70/30 and give you more rear brake, which you can take advantage of with the stickier/wider rear tire..
Downside is you might need to swap from the 93 cobra MC to the 94/95GT MC. Since you are upsizing your rear caliper volume, you need to go up a 1/16" on the MC bore size.
I know several folks running the above ATS/43mm combo with 94/95 GT MC and love that combination.
Dang, been a while since I've posted! I enjoyed cruising the coupe last summer in Washington, snagged a calypso hatch for a steal of a deal and spent some time working on it, and relocated from WA to TX at the end of last year. Got the new house/shop all dialed in and am finally getting back to work on the coupe!
Up front: Got rid of the stock K Member, old Tokico blues, UPR A-arms, UPR coilovers, and leaky fox steering rack. Replaced with MM K Member, 0 offset A-arms, Bilstein/MM coilovers, and 04 Mach 1 ZK steering rack.
Out back: I swapped the NVH nightmare of the MM Extreme Duty LCA's & rough riding Viking coilovers. Replaced with MM Heavy Duty Adjustable LCA's, Torque Arm springs, & Bilstein shocks.
Next up is the MM panhard bar (once I pick up some tailpipes that clear...Pypes do NOT), MM rear sway bar, and the MM Torque Arm!
Oh, and these cars do NOT like the 100+ temps we've been having down here - both are getting hot cruising 70mph down the highway with the AC on. SVE radiators, new fan clutches & fans, new lower air deflectors, and 185 degree thermostats, 8 gallons of coolant, and 2 pints of Water Wetter are sitting on the shop floor waiting to be installed!
Up front: Got rid of the stock K Member, old Tokico blues, UPR A-arms, UPR coilovers, and leaky fox steering rack. Replaced with MM K Member, 0 offset A-arms, Bilstein/MM coilovers, and 04 Mach 1 ZK steering rack.
Out back: I swapped the NVH nightmare of the MM Extreme Duty LCA's & rough riding Viking coilovers. Replaced with MM Heavy Duty Adjustable LCA's, Torque Arm springs, & Bilstein shocks.
Next up is the MM panhard bar (once I pick up some tailpipes that clear...Pypes do NOT), MM rear sway bar, and the MM Torque Arm!
Oh, and these cars do NOT like the 100+ temps we've been having down here - both are getting hot cruising 70mph down the highway with the AC on. SVE radiators, new fan clutches & fans, new lower air deflectors, and 185 degree thermostats, 8 gallons of coolant, and 2 pints of Water Wetter are sitting on the shop floor waiting to be installed!
Last edited:
Yes you do; everyone does! It's been absolutely lifechanging for me. It's 40'x40', 10' ceilings, 8'x10' doors, and has central AC/heat. Best part is that the lift was already installed when I bought the place!
Wondering what you thought of the UPR setup up front. Was there any reason you got rid of the UPR coilovers other than MM being better? Where the UPR's worn out, where they a harsh ride, did you install the UPR's in the first place? thanks.
Similar threads
Progress Thread
Family member 1989 GT- Backstory and updates