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Engine 93 lx top end kit install now has no power.

  • Thread starter Thread starter anorth93
  • Start date Start date Aug 20, 2023
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A

anorth93

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Aug 20, 2023
#1
  • Aug 20, 2023
  • #1
So let me start off by giving a little background on the issue and what I've done so far. I bought a trick flow 11R top end kit and a Holley systemax II intake, 24lb injectors, pro-m 75mm mass air calibrated for 24lb injectors. Installed everything fired the car up and it ran horrible, had 2 bad bran new injectors. Got a whole new set checked to make sure all of them worked and they do. Put them in fired the car back up, car idles great but has no power at all. The car is stock bottom end has an aod 2800 stall with 4.10 gears and it won't even do a burn out. Sometimes when you try to stall it up to do a burnout it will pop in the intake. Also does that when you are slowing down. I'm going to be putting an AFR gauge in this week. But so far I put new cap and rotor, new plugs, new wires, new tps, new iac, new act, cts and ignition coil. I swapped the factory mass air In just to see if that would change anything and still the same. No power at all. But the car will idle and rev up perfect. It's just once it goes under a load then it will pop in the intake. Any help and suggestions would be great.
 
M

Monkeybutt2000

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Aug 11, 2019
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#2
  • Aug 20, 2023
  • #2
Have you confirmed timing?
 
A

anorth93

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#3
  • Aug 20, 2023
  • #3
Also it keeps fouling the plugs out, but pops thru the intake. I thought when it popped through the intake that generally means a lien condition
 
A

anorth93

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#4
  • Aug 20, 2023
  • #4
Monkeybutt2000 said:
Have you confirmed timing?
Click to expand...
Yes set at 10 degrees, tried 12 14 with spout out. Then tried locking the timing out at 28 and 30. No change at all
 
A

anorth93

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#5
  • Aug 20, 2023
  • #5
Monkeybutt2000 said:
Have you confirmed timing?
Click to expand...
Yes set at 10 degrees, tried 12 14 with spout out. Then tried locking the timing out at 28 and 30. No change at all
 

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Monkeybutt2000

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#6
  • Aug 20, 2023
  • #6
Popping through the intake usually is timing events,valve adjustments,etc.
 
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Monkeybutt2000

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#7
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Vacumn sources hooked up correctly? Spark plugs wires on correct cylinder?
 
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anorth93

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#8
  • Aug 20, 2023
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Monkeybutt2000 said:
Vacumn sources hooked up correctly? Spark plugs wires on correct cylinder?
Click to expand...
Ya vacuum is all set right, did a vacuum leak test there isn't any leaks. All the plug wires are correct. I thought maybe the valves so I redid them, and the seemed fine to me, no valve train noise at all. And I didn't want to over do them so if anything I figured they would be a tad loose.
 
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anorth93

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#9
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I could do a compression test to make sure a valve isn't open correct? Or a vacuum test, I can't remember never had to do one before.That picture is of 2 of the plugs I just pulled out like 10 minutes ago
 
Last edited: Aug 20, 2023

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
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#10
  • Aug 20, 2023
  • #10
Did you double check your firing order and did you run it on your dist cap in a counter clockwise direction?
Make sure you are running the correct firing order for your cam.. HO or NON HO.....
 
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anorth93

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#11
  • Aug 20, 2023
  • #11
limp said:
Did you double check your firing order and did you run it on your dist cap in a counter clockwise direction?
Make sure you are running the correct firing order for your cam.. HO or NON HO.....
Click to expand...
Ya all that is correct.
 
M

Monkeybutt2000

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#12
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Pulled codes? Those plugs are WAY rich. Raw fuel smell while idling?
 
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anorth93

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#13
  • Aug 20, 2023
  • #13
limp said:
Did you double check your firing order and did you run it on your dist cap in a counter clockwise direction?
Make sure you are running the correct firing order for your cam.. HO or NON HO.....
Click to expand...
Ya all that is corr
Monkeybutt2000 said:
Pulled codes? Those plugs are WAY rich. Raw fuel smell while idling?
Click to expand...
No not really not more then normal, car ran perfectly before the top end kit. I pulled the codes I can't remember what they are, I'll pull them again tomorrow. But I know the codes weren't anything pertaining to making it run like it is. One was the egr cuz it's deleted, other was codes for the smog actuators because they are deleted also. I'm going to weld the ade gauge in tomorrow when I get home and I'll let you guys know what the afr is. Going to put a vacuum gauge on it , and try the cylinder balance test
 
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anorth93

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#14
  • Aug 20, 2023
  • #14
anorth93 said:
Ya all that is corr

No not really not more then normal, car ran perfectly before the top end kit. I pulled the codes I can't remember what they are, I'll pull them again tomorrow. But I know the codes weren't anything pertaining to making it run like it is. One was the egr cuz it's deleted, other was codes for the smog actuators because they are deleted also. I'm going to weld the ade gauge in tomorrow when I get home and I'll let you guys know what the afr is. Going to put a vacuum gauge on it , and try the cylinder balance test
Click to expand...
Crazy this is the car idles great. Trick flow stage 1 cam, no hunting or surging idle. And revs clean. It's just under load. Bad when the car won't even spin the tires. When it was stock with just the 4.10 gears it would blister them
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
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#15
  • Aug 20, 2023
  • #15
You are 100% sure the distributor is stabbed correctly?
 
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anorth93

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#16
  • Aug 21, 2023
  • #16
AeroCoupe said:
You are 100% sure the distributor is stabbed correctly?
Click to expand...
I lined everything up dot to dot and made sure it was at tdc when I stabbed it. But I can always pull it and restab it to make sure
 

LILCBRA

I wish I didn't have all of these balls in the air
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#17
  • Aug 21, 2023
  • #17
Have you tried swapping back to the first set of injectors minus the 2 bad ones? Upgraded fuel pump/system? Checked fuel pressure?
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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Aug 21, 2023
#18
  • Aug 21, 2023
  • #18
Make sure you are at TDC by feeling the piston come up on the compression stroke. The piston will have some dwell time at TDC which can be a few degrees of the crank when turning. I tend to watch the timing marks on the balancer when the piston first stops moving upward and then when it start to fall down. Split that difference and then stab the distributor.
 
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anorth93

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May 15, 2020
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Aug 21, 2023
#19
  • Aug 21, 2023
  • #19
LILCBRA said:
Have you tried swapping back to the first set of injectors minus the 2 bad ones? Upgraded fuel pump/system? Checked fuel pressure?
Click to expand...
I sent the first set back for the warranty on the new ones. I tried putting the 19lb mass air meter in and no change. It has a 190lph fuel pump. Fuel pressure is at like 36ish at idle and 39-40 with vac off.
 
A

anorth93

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May 15, 2020
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Aug 21, 2023
#20
  • Aug 21, 2023
  • #20
AeroCoupe said:
Make sure you are at TDC by feeling the piston come up on the compression stroke. The piston will have some dwell time at TDC which can be a few degrees of the crank when turning. I tend to watch the timing marks on the balancer when the piston first stops moving upward and then when it start to fall down. Split that difference and then stab the distributor.
Click to expand...
So what would be the easiest way to check if it's at tdc with the motor together. I know to put my finger over the hole to make sure it's on the compression stroke, but how do I make sure the piston is at top dead center without using a bore scope camera. I'm going to put the AFR gauge in tonight and fresh plugs and then I will re-stab the distributor. I tried 10° 12, 14, 16 and then locked the timing out at 28 and 30 still no change
 
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